Newbie with ongoing HVAC weirdness. Any ideas? - SOLVED

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mtglick

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Hi, all--need some advice on a persistent HVAC issue. Have been through a bunch of threads here and elsewhere and I can't seem to figure out what's going wrong here.

I have a 2004 Yukon XL, SLT, 2WD. About 270K on the motor, lots of upgrades/changes over the last seven years and 130K of cross-country road trips, daily driving, and family jaunts hither and yon, but the HVAC is insisting on giving me a little bit of a runaround.

To sum, my wife's biggest complaint about the truck (outside of the noise the aftermarket dual 16" e-fans make), is that the front Auto-Temp HVAC has been sketchy for the past couple of years. Early problems related to the pass side front blowing hot air when the rest of the car is blowing cold, or the system just getting overloaded in the summer and giving up the ghost. In the last year or so we've replaced juuuust about every part of the system, outside of the evaporators, and while it seems like we've cured some of the problems, each cure seems to bring up another issue, and we're still struggling with it. We've done the blend actuators, compressor, orifices, condenser, A/C head, resistor, blower motor, and retrofitted a cabin air filter while we were at it. All new parts from reputable companies.

Current issue is that, after the A/C motor seemed to go out (original unit), I did another blower motor resistor change when I swapped the motor. We got about a week of usage and the fan stopped working again--tried the A/C reset procedure, no dice. I swapped in a spare AC head controller, which did nothing positive, but now the T/C dashboard idiot light activates at start. That seems to be related to something malfunctioning in the head controller, but no idea why, and I'm going to put my old OEM one back in, and relegate the "new" one back to spare parts. I have a new resistor on the way, so I'll swap that in and see if it was just a bad resistor. The motor I installed initially was bad, so it may have weakened the one that's in now. Engine compartment fuses (10A and 40A) are both good.

My question at this point is "Am I missing something?" Is there some other part of this system that I've overlooked here? The rear A/C works GREAT--no issues, blows super cold, etc. Rear controls are predictable and effective. The front controller, fan, and resistor just never seem to want to work together, even when all of the parts are new and "working", there are weird behaviors--for instance, the inability to activate recirculation, but only sometimes. The system goes in and out of Auto mode, and there are other bits of oddness that seem to come from the A/C controller, but not consistently, and swapping in a new head didn't seem to solve those problems. Is there something else I should be looking at?
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

I cannot personally assist you with your issue, but other members of this Forum much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in.

@swathdiver may be able to provide some focused troubleshooting tips for you.
 

mountie

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Hi, all--need some advice on a persistent HVAC issue. Have been through a bunch of threads here and elsewhere and I can't seem to figure out what's going wrong here.

I have a 2004 Yukon XL, SLT, 2WD. About 270K on the motor, lots of upgrades/changes over the last seven years and 130K of cross-country road trips, daily driving, and family jaunts hither and yon, but the HVAC is insisting on giving me a little bit of a runaround.

To sum, my wife's biggest complaint about the truck (outside of the noise the aftermarket dual 16" e-fans make), is that the front Auto-Temp HVAC has been sketchy for the past couple of years. Early problems related to the pass side front blowing hot air when the rest of the car is blowing cold, or the system just getting overloaded in the summer and giving up the ghost. In the last year or so we've replaced juuuust about every part of the system, outside of the evaporators, and while it seems like we've cured some of the problems, each cure seems to bring up another issue, and we're still struggling with it. We've done the blend actuators, compressor, orifices, condenser, A/C head, resistor, blower motor, and retrofitted a cabin air filter while we were at it. All new parts from reputable companies.

Current issue is that, after the A/C motor seemed to go out (original unit), I did another blower motor resistor change when I swapped the motor. We got about a week of usage and the fan stopped working again--tried the A/C reset procedure, no dice. I swapped in a spare AC head controller, which did nothing positive, but now the T/C dashboard idiot light activates at start. That seems to be related to something malfunctioning in the head controller, but no idea why, and I'm going to put my old OEM one back in, and relegate the "new" one back to spare parts. I have a new resistor on the way, so I'll swap that in and see if it was just a bad resistor. The motor I installed initially was bad, so it may have weakened the one that's in now. Engine compartment fuses (10A and 40A) are both good.

My question at this point is "Am I missing something?" Is there some other part of this system that I've overlooked here? The rear A/C works GREAT--no issues, blows super cold, etc. Rear controls are predictable and effective. The front controller, fan, and resistor just never seem to want to work together, even when all of the parts are new and "working", there are weird behaviors--for instance, the inability to activate recirculation, but only sometimes. The system goes in and out of Auto mode, and there are other bits of oddness that seem to come from the A/C controller, but not consistently, and swapping in a new head didn't seem to solve those problems. Is there something else I should be looking at?
Ouch..... I have an '05 XL.... My only issue was just the passenger actuator, and replaced it......
I wonder if your replacement of the head unit...... Double check the connections?? Other than that, I don't know anything.....
 

Doubeleive

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sounds like you need to either invest in a tech2 or a decent mid-level scanner so you can troubleshoot the system.
versus just throwing parts at it.
 

Fless

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A couple of suggestions...

The AUTO HVAC head can easily be disassembled to clean the temperature pots and the buttons. I had mine apart to do just that and to replace the backlighting.


There may also be an updated calibration (software) from GM if it hasn't been done yet. Some scanners can look at the existing calibrations, and if there is one available it can be programmed ($) at some cost.
 
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mtglick

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Thanks, all. Appreciate the advice, responses in order:

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

I cannot personally assist you with your issue, but other members of this Forum much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in.

@swathdiver may be able to provide some focused troubleshooting tips for you.


@Joseph Garcia , truck shots below. Iin terms of mechanicals since purchase we've swapped out the mech fan for a dual 16 and the stock radiator for a 3-row aluminum, added the oil cooler lines, upgraded the oil and water pump to push more of both, changed out the wheel hubs, installed Bilsteins all around, upgraded the rear springs to a longer cargo spring, Banks CAI, full dual exhaust from the heads to the tailpipes, transmission was rebulilt, and the usual sundry parts as they've failed (TPS, MAF, 02's etc.) The intent with the vehicle is long-distance reliability in very warm climates, as we take it out on the road every summer. Last time we loaded out we totaled about 1600 lbs in with five people and an XL top box, and the setup handles that with surprising grace.

1000005624.jpg1000005623.jpg1000005625.jpg1000005626.jpg20250511_102740.jpg1000005629.jpg

sounds like you need to either invest in a tech2 or a decent mid-level scanner so you can troubleshoot the system.
versus just throwing parts at it.

@Doubeleive , had it scanned by a shop early on, everything seemed OK. Most of the parts gun was aimed around upgrading and replacing fifteen + year old hardware before it died in the desert. Was recommended we go in and have the dealer reflash the ECM to deal with a reversed driver's side seat control (forward and back are flipped), but it's never really been enough of a problem to risk the dealer trashing the computer.

@mountie , thanks anyway. Had a 98 SL500 myself for a while. Eventually let it go to somebody who could take better care of it, had problems keeping the ignition coils going but the car itself was wonderful as a driver.

A couple of suggestions...

The AUTO HVAC head can easily be disassembled to clean the temperature pots and the buttons. I had mine apart to do just that and to replace the backlighting.


There may also be an updated calibration (software) from GM if it hasn't been done yet. Some scanners can look at the existing calibrations, and if there is one available it can be programmed ($) at some cost.

@Fless, will research this in more detail. Thanks for the, umm, heads up. No pun intended.


For any interested, will update after the resistor install tomorrow and let you know what happens.

Thanks!
 

mountie

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Thanks, all. Appreciate the advice, responses in order:




@Joseph Garcia , truck shots below. Iin terms of mechanicals since purchase we've swapped out the mech fan for a dual 16 and the stock radiator for a 3-row aluminum, added the oil cooler lines, upgraded the oil and water pump to push more of both, changed out the wheel hubs, installed Bilsteins all around, upgraded the rear springs to a longer cargo spring, Banks CAI, full dual exhaust from the heads to the tailpipes, transmission was rebulilt, and the usual sundry parts as they've failed (TPS, MAF, 02's etc.) The intent with the vehicle is long-distance reliability in very warm climates, as we take it out on the road every summer. Last time we loaded out we totaled about 1600 lbs in with five people and an XL top box, and the setup handles that with surprising grace.

View attachment 456922View attachment 456923View attachment 456924View attachment 456925View attachment 456926View attachment 456927



@Doubeleive , had it scanned by a shop early on, everything seemed OK. Most of the parts gun was aimed around upgrading and replacing fifteen + year old hardware before it died in the desert. Was recommended we go in and have the dealer reflash the ECM to deal with a reversed driver's side seat control (forward and back are flipped), but it's never really been enough of a problem to risk the dealer trashing the computer.

@mountie , thanks anyway. Had a 98 SL500 myself for a while. Eventually let it go to somebody who could take better care of it, had problems keeping the ignition coils going but the car itself was wonderful as a driver.



@Fless, will research this in more detail. Thanks for the, umm, heads up. No pun intended.


For any interested, will update after the resistor install tomorrow and let you know what happens.

Thanks!
At least, your '98 SL500 could be diagnosed with a Tech 1 ( or a tech 2 ?)... My '93 didn't. So I had to throw $$ parts at it with my fingers crossed... But my SL was gorgeous!!
 

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Fless

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Your seat issue may be a problem with the BCM or the DSM, not the PCM. There are multiple calibrations for the various modules and sub-systems. Here are a few of the calibrations that I verified and updated on my '04 (L59 engine):

1747063861032.png
 

mountie

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Your seat issue may be a problem with the BCM or the DSM, not the PCM. There are multiple calibrations for the various modules and sub-systems. Here are a few of the calibrations that I verified and updated on my '04 (L59 engine):

View attachment 456953
My '05 Yukon's seat 'forward/backwards' switch is also reversed. Can I have my mechanic use his tech tool to correct?
 

Fless

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My '05 Yukon's seat 'forward/backwards' switch is also reversed. Can I have my mechanic use his tech tool to correct?

Read through the short thread below. I think @DougAMiller has the answer.

 

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