New to the site

[Balckhog02]

Just bought a 2002 yukon. Daily driver but I also pull trailers with it for mowing and odds n end jobs. Biggest is the 18' tandem I pull my derby car with. Pretty bad sagging when loaded even with car majority over axels. Was wondering if anybody has any upgrades I can use to help stiffen er up a little bit still be smooth without a load on. Also any engine upgrades to get a little more umph!

Thanks in advance!

 

[Michigan]

Just bought a 2002 yukon. Daily driver but I also pull trailers with it for mowing and odds n end jobs. Biggest is the 18' tandem I pull my derby car with. Pretty bad sagging when loaded even with car majority over axels. Was wondering if anybody has any upgrades I can use to help stiffen er up a little bit still be smooth without a load on. Also any engine upgrades to get a little more umph!

Thanks in advance!

I usually like to add a cold air intake. I have a k&n on my current tahoe and had airaid on my last one and like them both.

I'm also gonna be adding a single flowmaster muffler with dual out pretty soon.

I don't know much about tunes but I think you need one if you do headers. Might look into that in the future. I've heard the name big bear performance a lot but have not done much research on it

Maybe bilstein shocks to stiffen her up?

 

[swathdiver]

Airbags in your springs for starters.

 

[Balckhog02]

Airbags in your springs for starters.

I wanted to stay away from air if at all possible. I was leaning towards the Timbrens as they have a lifetime warranty and I dont have to jack with them/easy install.

 

[swathdiver]

Air Lift bags are easy to install, they just go inside your springs and you air them up if you don't want to sag.

 

[D is for DENALI]

maybe some bump stops and change out the shocks... so it rides good when it's empty but won't over sag when load hits the stoppers..

For easy performance, I would recommend the airraid MIT intake tube, and drop in a oilless performance filter... spray Maf sensor with maf cleaner, interior engine scrub by Kanolabs, it's called Kreen
.. amazing stuff.

besides a tune up there won't be much power gains from changeout, unless it's headers or electric fans.. but after that you need a tune from a shop that can dial in your shift points and power curves

corvette servo will help shifts and keep wear down on the trans...

buy new beefier shocks and get stoppers installed... that will help sag, maybe sway bars will help under towing.. bilstein
5100, or upgrade to 5160 so you can add air, double the price but worth the money in ease of use and for your application.

 

[Balckhog02]

maybe some bump stops and change out the shocks... so it rides good when it's empty but won't over sag when load hits the stoppers..

For easy performance, I would recommend the airraid MIT intake tube, and drop in a oilless performance filter... spray Maf sensor with maf cleaner, interior engine scrub by Kanolabs, it's called Kreen
.. amazing stuff.

besides a tune up there won't be much power gains from changeout, unless it's headers or electric fans.. but after that you need a tune from a shop that can dial in your shift points and power curves

corvette servo will help shifts and keep wear down on the trans...

buy new beefier shocks and get stoppers installed... that will help sag, maybe sway bars will help under towing.. bilstein
5100, or upgrade to 5160 so you can add air, double the price but worth the money in ease of use and for your application.

id like to stay away from tunes right now. The ol gal has 182000 and I getting ready to go through the front end and then on to the rear to help the sagging. Will be adding intake and filter and possibly exhaust if i can make up my mind on what I like.

 

[D is for DENALI]

I understand completely.. a proper tune, no matter the mileage, will add more power than intake, exhaust, and e fans put together...

I will be getting a tune on mine and by that time i will have 200+k on the truck. a tune will dial in your shift points, power curves, and general power gains all around.. this can be done without any mods.. but if you do mods , you will need a retune.

but if you want noticeable power gains without spending 2 k, a tune is your path.

but with 180k+, I would buy a quart of Kanolabs Kreen, and give your moving engine parts a GOOD scrubbing... maybe new plugs too after you are done doing that. you see see alot of stuff come out of your drain when you use this stuff, it works!!!

intake will help pedal lag and response time but might only give you 1 hp.. it will give a nice tone to the motor that wasn't there before.

clean throttle body, clean Maf, drop in filter, intake.. all aids in air flow.. new plugs will detonate fuel cleanly, maybe evem change fuel filter.. if you do all these mods, it will cost less than 300 bucks and help alot, not in hp but in happy motor. lol

I would spend the tune money on nice rear shocks with air canister reservoirs so I could pump and deflate accordingly...

 

[Balckhog02]

I have about 1500 i want to spend (part by part not right away) on er total: new front end, upgraded rear and engine upgrades. I have a new radiator, spark/coils, alternator, water pump and valve cover and oil cooler gaskets. I need to replace the oil pan gasket (or at least i hope its that and not the main) also. As far as the exhaust i was leaning towards Flowmaster, but am open to suggestions. Is there a specific tune i should look into?

Here's a list i have gathered so far:

-Bilstein Heavy Duty Shocks & Struts
-MOOG HD coils
-Timbren bumper stop
-aFe Magnum Force cold air intake with pro dry S filter

The only thin im worried about is adding these stiffer components in the rear is gunna cause it to be uneven in the front.

Eventually id like to install: cam, head and new gears for fun, but im happy with what i have now minus a few details. LOL.

Its not perfectly ideal for what i do, but i got a heck of a deal at the time and needed the extra row of seats.

 

[D is for DENALI]

the tune of choice here is blackbear performance tunes, they have a huge website and do traveling tunes around the country throughout the year...

$80 books you, $240 more when you arrive... they hook up into your truck, you take it for a long drive, do stop and gos, heavy acceration, etc, and will tighten your shifts immensely, more power throughout the gear, I could go on but you get the point.. they dial in your truck for your driving habits and towing needs..

they have an autocal scanner for 600, and then they just send you tunes digitally after you tell them what you upgraded and you upload them yourself.. custom tunes from your computer.

that's the route im going to go because im too far away and travel costs will put me where an autocal cost would be...

you might have a gm performance shop near you, im sure they could do something similar, but BB sounds to be the top shelf liquor around here...lol

and with those components you might get the z71 jacked look, but you are towing alot of weight, and that when safety is most critical.. if it rides to hard, throw some sand bags in the back...hahahaahha

 

[Balckhog02]

Exactly my thinking is that with the weight i will be hauling i want to know it can handle it! haha im sure the amount of CRAP i carry in the truck of this thing itll do

Tune sounds pretty easy to do. will definitely check into it when i get some more mulla!

 

[Fosscore]

Welcome. The Black Bear tune on my 06 was worth the time and money. Many trucks on this forum have been tuned by them. Good luck when you can get it done. You will be a bit happier.

 

[Chubbs]

Obviously you are going to drain & refill motor oil. AC deco 1dexos 5w-30 (6qrt) & delco or Napa gold filter.

Even before that I did a drain&refill on the trans with a new filter/seal/pan gasket kit & Delco Dex6 synthetic. The trans needs all the help it can get & this dex6syn is the business. Drain & refill the rear diff. Front diff & transfer box if the vehicle is equipped. Are the front axles or gearbox leaking fluid? That means they are running low anyway. Get the old restricted fuel filter off of there ASAP before you burn up the fuel pump. (If your truck has 8th digit 'Z' in the VIN you will find a serviceable fuel filter) Replace it with Napa gold unit. New 100k iridium delco spark plugs, fresh set of wires, new intake air filter YESTERDAY... Not when you decide to spend $300 on a tube & 3 screws. Purge the old brake fluid out. Flush the power steering lines out & refill w synthetic fluid & 1 full unit of Lucas PS conditioner per GM TSB. Replace the PCV valve. Flush the coolant & heater core. What else? Fix anything that is creating trouble codes i.e. Check Engine Warning, clean the MAF sensor, inspect brake pads/rotors, inspect the front end & make sure you aren't about to lose a front wheel due to faulty ball joints or wheel hubs, make sure the front tires are wearing evenly & it doesn't need a wheel alignment. Does the driveshaft(s) need new Ujoints? Does the slip yoke CLUNK need addressing? Is the intermediate steering shaft bumping & clanking? Do you hear any POP or CLUNK sounds driving over bumps & dips? Does your truck have provision for removable cabin pollen filter? If not, then you need to look up the cabin filter mod. I was breathing dirt, fungus & gym sock odor for months before I figured this 1 out. 2002 you may be good so change the cabin filter. Install new wiper blades. See if the truck shakes or pulses under hard braking. Remove all of the lug nuts & retighten by hand so that you can change out a flat tire. Do you have a spare and check the air pressure. Make sure none of the bulbs are burned out. Buy a spare brake switch for when that goes out. Check the drive belt for cracks. Does the parking brake hold?

Do some research for the common issues and find related Tech Svc Bulletins for fast fixes & easy repair before little problems become large PsIA. I did at least 1-maintenance item every week for over 2-months before I took a break to just enjoy driving the truck. Everybody should have some level of paranoia just buying & jumping into somebody else's junk. These trucks have the most TSBs of any GM vehicle ever manufactured; would be wise to at least be driving with all fresh fluids & filters from the get-go. This espc holds true when past maint records are non-existent, incomplete, undocumented & so forth.

If you are hauling stuff & pulling trailers, new drive train fluids becomes immediate concern. I promise you the PS fluid is black & no longer lubricating or holding a cool temp. I HATE replacing power steering pumps. Your truck is most likeLy running on the original fill differential lube and it's been sheared 10-ways to Sunday. You will love the smell when that rear end cover comes off. newest release trans' Chems have the ability to operate at high temps before shearing & losing viscosity. Dex6 has lower viscosity by-design to operate well while cold/ @ colder climates as compared to old factory-fills, blends, formulas & so forth.

 

[Balckhog02]

I have a rock auto shopping list for front end, rear end, engine, gaskets, fluids and filters.

Plan on knocking out the oil pan gasket this weekend. Going to replace all front end components as the ol girls getting a little loose. I have replaced plugs and coils, valve cover gaskets, oil cooler gasket (still think its leaking ) radiator, water pump, alternator just replaced, already have a power steering pump leak but stop leak is holding ...for now.

Plan on replacing timing components, pulleys, belts, yokes and joints also....im sure I'm missing something on the "to-do" list.

Please be free to inform me on anything major I may have missed!!

 

[Balckhog02]

Obviously you are going to drain & refill motor oil. AC deco 1dexos 5w-30 (6qrt) & delco or Napa gold filter.

Even before that I did a drain&refill on the trans with a new filter/seal/pan gasket kit & Delco Dex6 synthetic. The trans needs all the help it can get & this dex6syn is the business. Drain & refill the rear diff. Front diff & transfer box if the vehicle is equipped. Are the front axles or gearbox leaking fluid? That means they are running low anyway. Get the old restricted fuel filter off of there ASAP before you burn up the fuel pump. (If your truck has 8th digit 'Z' in the VIN you will find a serviceable fuel filter) Replace it with Napa gold unit. New 100k iridium delco spark plugs, fresh set of wires, new intake air filter YESTERDAY... Not when you decide to spend $300 on a tube & 3 screws. Purge the old brake fluid out. Flush the power steering lines out & refill w synthetic fluid & 1 full unit of Lucas PS conditioner per GM TSB. Replace the PCV valve. Flush the coolant & heater core. What else? Fix anything that is creating trouble codes i.e. Check Engine Warning, clean the MAF sensor, inspect brake pads/rotors, inspect the front end & make sure you aren't about to lose a front wheel due to faulty ball joints or wheel hubs, make sure the front tires are wearing evenly & it doesn't need a wheel alignment. Does the driveshaft(s) need new Ujoints? Does the slip yoke CLUNK need addressing? Is the intermediate steering shaft bumping & clanking? Do you hear any POP or CLUNK sounds driving over bumps & dips? Does your truck have provision for removable cabin pollen filter? If not, then you need to look up the cabin filter mod. I was breathing dirt, fungus & gym sock odor for months before I figured this 1 out. 2002 you may be good so change the cabin filter. Install new wiper blades. See if the truck shakes or pulses under hard braking. Remove all of the lug nuts & retighten by hand so that you can change out a flat tire. Do you have a spare and check the air pressure. Make sure none of the bulbs are burned out. Buy a spare brake switch for when that goes out. Check the drive belt for cracks. Does the parking brake hold?

Do some research for the common issues and find related Tech Svc Bulletins for fast fixes & easy repair before little problems become large PsIA. I did at least 1-maintenance item every week for over 2-months before I took a break to just enjoy driving the truck. Everybody should have some level of paranoia just buying & jumping into somebody else's junk. These trucks have the most TSBs of any GM vehicle ever manufactured; would be wise to at least be driving with all fresh fluids & filters from the get-go. This espc holds true when past maint records are non-existent, incomplete, undocumented & so forth.

If you are hauling stuff & pulling trailers, new drive train fluids becomes immediate concern. I promise you the PS fluid is black & no longer lubricating or holding a cool temp. I HATE replacing power steering pumps. Your truck is most likeLy running on the original fill differential lube and it's been sheared 10-ways to Sunday. You will love the smell when that rear end cover comes off. newest release trans' Chems have the ability to operate at high temps before shearing & losing viscosity. Dex6 has lower viscosity by-design to operate well while cold/ @ colder climates as compared to old factory-fills, blends, formulas & so forth.

Can I use 75-140 for front and Rear??

 

[Chubbs]

GM calls for 75/90 synthetic in the rear diff & 80w conventional in the front unit. If you find RPO code g80 in the glove box sticker then the rear diff on your truck has a locking unit. In that case I would use what is called for. Conventional is used in the front as the axle tube seals leak oil, along with the vent; synthetic will go right past it & you will be running low on lube in no time. I followed GM spec on everything. GM or ACdelco AutoTrak2 for transfer case rpo NP8 electronic shift autotrak

 

[RED TAHOE LS]

Jordan, to the forum. As for tune improvements, good previous advise. As for leveling when towing, IMO the most effective and safe way is a EQUALIZER INSERT with removable/adjustable SWAY BARS. Don't forget the brake control if your trailer has brakes.

David g..........

 

[projoe]

FWIW from the kanolabs terms of sale:

"ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANO LABS ARE FOR USE IN THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS ONLY AND ARE NOT FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE.".

which, taken with the rest of the agreement you must agree to before you get to see a product, seems to directly contradict their guarantees...