New shoes, pads, rotors etc

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Patten

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 12, 2022
Posts
14
Reaction score
10
OK, I have this 99 Yukon that is right standard as I know. One of my problems is the brakes and finding parts. Well, I think all the parts are finally in place thanks to junkyard donors.

Now, as I am right rough on it, the rotors, pads and such don't seem to last. At the hunting club, which is right at the geographic fall line in South Carolina, I have plenty of water, mud, sand and rocks supplied by nature and these all take a toll on the brakes. I want to upgrade these parts so I have less warpage, wear, grinding and the like.

One really annoying issues is coming to a slow down to turn off of the highway. The vibration feels like it is going to wear a hole in my seat. And then the right real brake squeals like a bus at times.

Can y'all recommend a source for good brake parts that will stand up to nature a bit better than OEM and the like? Do the parts shops actually offer better than standard quality?
 
OP
OP
P

Patten

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 12, 2022
Posts
14
Reaction score
10
And now I have just read in another thread that a conversion to rear disc is easy. Any sources on that?
 

exp500

Full Access Member
Joined
May 14, 2017
Posts
1,790
Reaction score
1,619
Most of the 99's were factory rear disk. Rear end swap is easist way.
Semi metallic front pads are about the best choice for these trucks.
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,267
Reaction score
31,747
Location
Willamette Valley
I have done a lot of off road/trails in an old Blazer. If you are running stock size wheels and tires, you are closer to the "supplied by nature" obstacles. Bigger wheels and tires elevates you but will need fender trimming for clearance and add a lift. I know of no brake systems that will not be effected by driving thru dirt/mud/water.....etc. If that gets in there, it gets in there in any brake system. I have loaded my old Blazer on the trailer and driven to a car wash as soon as I could to try and clean them out. By the way.....I was right very rough on my rig.
 

Marky Dissod

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2023
Posts
1,184
Reaction score
1,544
Location
(718)-
So you have a GMT400, and you want brake upgrades ...
I wonder if - for your FRONT brakes! (NOT your rears) - a GMT900 brake kit upgrade is in your future.
(Typical GMT800 front brake upgrade is GMT900 front brake kit; you should likely just skip to GMT900.)

As for rears, find a GMT800 rear axle with your gears - or upgrade the gears too? - and rear disc brakes.
Bob's your uncle.

Almost forgot: you will likely need stainless steel slider pins, and it may be a very good idea to coat / paint things you don't want to corrode.
 

Eman85

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2021
Posts
377
Reaction score
555
Most brake problems are from incomplete brake jobs on 25 yo vehicles. The hardware wears out just like the pads do. Brake fluid attracts moisture so the internal parts of the hydraulic system rust. If new rotors are installed on rusty hubs they will never run true and cause more wear and pulsations. rear brake backing plates wear and cause shoes to hang, drag and squeal. machining brake drums increases the diameter and the shoes don't fit properly. Place a shoe in a drum and see how the shoe fits to the drum. Decades ago we arced shoes to fit the machined drums, back when men were men and asbestos killed us. Now if the drums are worn throw them away.
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,267
Reaction score
31,747
Location
Willamette Valley
Most brake problems are from incomplete brake jobs on 25 yo vehicles. The hardware wears out just like the pads do. Brake fluid attracts moisture so the internal parts of the hydraulic system rust. If new rotors are installed on rusty hubs they will never run true and cause more wear and pulsations. rear brake backing plates wear and cause shoes to hang, drag and squeal. machining brake drums increases the diameter and the shoes don't fit properly. Place a shoe in a drum and see how the shoe fits to the drum. Decades ago we arced shoes to fit the machined drums, back when men were men and asbestos killed us. Now if the drums are worn throw them away.
Completely agree with you. When I ran shops I gave brake work options and adjusted warranties accordingly. There is a lot of heat and vibrations and torque and pressure applied to any brake system over the miles and life of the system. You want your brakes to work like new, then new components and quality components are needed. Otherwise, it is a crapshoot.
 

YukonGTmaster

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2021
Posts
469
Reaction score
754
I should really upgrade to stainless braided brake lines. I have been running the oem rubber ones for 26 years.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,247
Posts
1,812,806
Members
92,349
Latest member
Ihaveatahoetoo
Top