New Guy: 1996 Yukon SLT 1500 4x4

[yodman]

Hey Tahoe/Yukon'ers,

I'm Cody from Flint, Michigan (actually Durand). I've just picked up this wonderful Emerald Green / Tan GMT400 Yukon 4x4 from a friend's mom for $1200 with 170k, very good tires, and some rust here or there that is repairable.

It had sat for 6 years before my resurrection in the driveway. It needed a new alternator, as the old one was seized up, and of course a fresh battery and gas + treatments. Tank was near empty when I began, so I severely doubt I damaged the pump as I primed it a few times before cranking.

Threw fresh headlight assemblies and brackets in it last weekend, as you'll see how bad the originals were in the pictures. One had 2" of water in it.

Everything works aside from the A/C, which I've already determined is the compressor being shot. Bearing makes horrible metal noises to accompany it.

Rear diff cover started leaking the other day, seemingly as though I'd blown it out, as it coated the back of the truck with oil and residue. Gotta get a wash in there somewhere!

Things done before its hibernation:

-Fuel Pump & sender assembly (yet gauge does weird things)
-Fuel tank
-Tires

Things I have for it, ready to install:

-Distro cap/rotor, plugs, wires, as the spark looks kinda weak and orange
-Fuel filter
-Front calipers/hoses/pads/rotors
-Rear axle hose
-Master cylinder & fresh fluid throughout
-Serp belt/tensioner/idler

Things it needs:

-Main front-rear brake line looks crusty, but stops fine
-Diff fluid changes front and rear for peace of mind, will be swapping to 75w90 synthetic
-Front right bank O2 sensor
-Oil change

Problems I've found:

-Radio volume/power knob is missing, and super sensitive to rotation... sometimes gets mind of its own with volume, likely due to dust
-Occasional hard start when sitting more than a day or two (truck turns over fast, catches almost like a backfire, then cranks again... I release the key, it diesels once or twice, I crank some more, same things happens for a minute or two until it coughs to life and runs... it's very hesitant to take throttle for a minute, hence needing fuel filter)
-Rear left barn door lower hatch has rusted completely free of the door! (anyone have a good door shell/door they'd sell me local-ish?)
-Power mirrors don't work
-ABS is in-op (likely a wheel speed sensor or hub tooth ring)
-Rear diff cover leak, obviously

Considering how long it sat, it runs and drives PHENOMENALLY well! 4x4 works great, power windows are flawless, transmission and fluid are in excellent condition, and even the old engine oil is still looking gold. Leaks nothing, leave's no drops on ground from engine!

Going to be an excellent tow rig & hauler of stuff, as well as a good winter vehicle for the lady when it's especially bad out.

I'm glad to be here guys! Pictures to come.

 

[Miami-Dade]

Welcome from Miami Beach Cody!!

Very nice looking 1996 Yukon!! You are doing a awesome job getting your Yukon back to where you want it to be..You came to the right forum to ask any questions you may have..Glad it was well maintained before you bought it..You will not find a Yukon that good for 1200 bucks in my neck of the woods.

 

[dkknaebel]

That interior is excellent. Lots of great info here for sure.

 

[yodman]

Welcome from Miami Beach Cody!!

Very nice looking 1996 Yukon!! You are doing a awesome job getting your Yukon back to where you want it to be..You came to the right forum to ask any questions you may have..Glad it was well maintained before you bought it..You will not find a Yukon that good for 1200 bucks in my neck of the woods.

Thanks! Had a feeling this was the place to start. Yep! Been well maintained and gently driven by the previous owner from 52k to 170k miles, and it shows. But, it still has sat for six years, and that shows too! Even in Michigan you can't buy this solid running and looking of a truck with even this old maintenance for this money. Not even close. Technically it didn't run when I agreed to pay the cash and sign the title! Had it running less than two hours later.

That interior is excellent. Lots of great info here for sure.

Thanks! It's not perfect, as the seems are splitting on the outer bolsters, and it all needs full detailing yet, but the leather should react nicely to some leather lotion. The headliner is flawless, as are the door panels. I had to ruin the barn door panels to get the doors open, but I think I can glue them back together and re-use them.

More work resumes tomorrow, as it's diff fluid time!

 

[yodman]

Got the synthetic rear diff fluid done, the full synthetic oil change done, lots of engine bay and various crevice cleaning done, and new serpentine belt/tensioner/idler done, and popped in a new K&N air filter for good measure.

Major bits to still do short-term:

-New A/C compressor (grinds pretty bad, but still rotates freely)
-New brake hard lines (originals are on the truck, and this is Michigan after all... They're not great looking)
-Tune up components (just haven't had the time I need for it yet, but truck still runs excellent)
-Fuel filter

Truck made a nice 70 mile drive to work today, and I look forward to the drive home!

I'll have to get a picture of the frame condition up here soon, as I want your guys' opinions on whether it's worth putting much more money into this truck, or whether I should get the brake components done and drive it into the ground until something major breaks.

Body and paint condition is not bad as you've seen, but it needs patch panels and paint restoration, but the frame an suspension may need serious attention. It all moves freely and there's no through rust, but replacing any of it if it breaks looks to be a bear...

 

[yodman]

Grabbed a quick shot of the underside in the rear.

What do you think? Am I in danger if never getting anything apart?

In other news I did 140 miles in it today with no issues. Returning an average 14 MPG.

 

[yodman]

Well, good news and bad news from yesterdays work session.

Good news:

-New head unit installed and working flawlessly (Kenwood KDC-X399)
-New front brake calipers, pads, rotors, and hardware

Bad news:

-While bleeding for front brakes, blew the rear line in about four places

So, now I gotta wait three weeks for my friend to come home and help me replace my lines throughout the truck. Doing them once, doing them all, doing them right.

Could be worse. I could've been driving it a long distance like I did to work three times last week on the highway when it happened.

 

[PG01]

Welcome and good luck. You can order prebent stainless brake lines for that truck... inlinetube.com....and truly never do them again..

 

[yodman]

Hey thanks for the website! Price certainly is good.

 

[yodman]

The fuel system struggle is real.

All of the typical problems are rearing their ugly heads.

Good thing this isn't my daily!

Hard starts being the general statement of what's happening.

Turns over fine.

Will either:
-cough when I let off the starter
-act like it backfires and stop the engine turning, only to resume turning over a moment later
-occasionally come to life (but rarely, and not with gusto)
-not ever fire or cough or rumble or anything

My suspicion is the fuel pump combined with the spider injector. The problem has been persisting, and getting worse over the two months I've had it.

Fuel pressure check is on the list, but I'm sure I'll find that it's A) not getting enough pressure and B) not holding it after key-off.

The fuel pump was replaced about 7 years ago, but I dunno with what kind of quality part. The truck sat for 6 of those years with little fuel in the tank (<2 gallons).

The spider injector / intake manifold looks as though it's never been removed.

Looks like I'm in for it for what I suspect the truck could sell for later on, about $2500.

Ah well, stuff happens.

I'll still get good use out of the truck.

~Cody

 

[Todd R]

Thanks! Had a feeling this was the place to start. Yep! Been well maintained and gently driven by the previous owner from 52k to 170k miles, and it shows. But, it still has sat for six years, and that shows too! Even in Michigan you can't buy this solid running and looking of a truck with even this old maintenance for this money. Not even close. Technically it didn't run when I agreed to pay the cash and sign the title! Had it running less than two hours later.



Thanks! It's not perfect, as the seems are splitting on the outer bolsters, and it all needs full detailing yet, but the leather should react nicely to some leather lotion. The headliner is flawless, as are the door panels. I had to ruin the barn door panels to get the doors open, but I think I can glue them back together and re-use them.

More work resumes tomorrow, as it's diff fluid time!

Nice rig brother and really good start on the maintenance. It should pull a trailer just fine. The one weak link in these are the 4l60e transmission. Make sure to add a tranny cooler if it doesn't have one. I would add one whether you pull a trailor or not. I have a 4l80e on hand when my trans decides to fail. The swap isn't that bad. Much heavier duty. It basically a 400 T with OD. Almost bullet proof and good for 700 hp but the harness and other stuff is about 700 bucks. The gear oil in the differential and transfer case is the way to go.

 

[Todd R]

The fuel system struggle is real.

All of the typical problems are rearing their ugly heads.

Good thing this isn't my daily!

Hard starts being the general statement of what's happening.

Turns over fine.

Will either:
-cough when I let off the starter
-act like it backfires and stop the engine turning, only to resume turning over a moment later
-occasionally come to life (but rarely, and not with gusto)
-not ever fire or cough or rumble or anything

My suspicion is the fuel pump combined with the spider injector. The problem has been persisting, and getting worse over the two months I've had it.

Fuel pressure check is on the list, but I'm sure I'll find that it's A) not getting enough pressure and B) not holding it after key-off.

The fuel pump was replaced about 7 years ago, but I dunno with what kind of quality part. The truck sat for 6 of those years with little fuel in the tank (<2 gallons).

The spider injector / intake manifold looks as though it's never been removed.

Looks like I'm in for it for what I suspect the truck could sell for later on, about $2500.

Ah well, stuff happens.

I'll still get good use out of the truck.

~Cody

Sounds like spider but run fuel pressure check and vacc checks. Could have intake manifold leaks. Get some ether and spray around the intake manifold. If you pull it I'd upgrade the spider to the mpfi such a huge upgrade. I'd clean and polish the intake and do an EGR block as well. just my .02 It will matter where you live and what your emmission regulation are though.

 

[Todd R]

Grabbed a quick shot of the underside in the rear.

What do you think? Am I in danger if never getting anything apart?

In other news I did 140 miles in it today with no issues. Returning an average 14 MPG.

View attachment 184109

Thats pretty ugly. No dissrespect. I wouldn't put much into it though. You'd be better off with a better frame and something with less rust. I just don't want you to spend too much on a rusty frame. I think if you want a good Tahoe or Yukon you can find a better chassis for a decent price to start with. After all iy starts from the ground up. If there are good parts pull them and scrap it start with a solid frame.

 

[Todd R]

Well, good news and bad news from yesterdays work session.

Good news:

-New head unit installed and working flawlessly (Kenwood KDC-X399)
-New front brake calipers, pads, rotors, and hardware

Bad news:

-While bleeding for front brakes, blew the rear line in about four places

So, now I gotta wait three weeks for my friend to come home and help me replace my lines throughout the truck. Doing them once, doing them all, doing them right.

Could be worse. I could've been driving it a long distance like I did to work three times last week on the highway when it happened.

I'm about to do the same thing. It's not so bad I think I'm going to buy a flaring kit and bender tool. Nice to have for future endeavors. Good luck let us know how it goes if you have time.

 

[yodman]

Nice rig brother and really good start on the maintenance. It should pull a trailer just fine. The one weak link in these are the 4l60e transmission. Make sure to add a tranny cooler if it doesn't have one. I would add one whether you pull a trailor or not. I have a 4l80e on hand when my trans decides to fail. The swap isn't that bad. Much heavier duty. It basically a 400 T with OD. Almost bullet proof and good for 700 hp but the harness and other stuff is about 700 bucks. The gear oil in the differential and transfer case is the way to go.

It does definitely have a trans cooler already in it which is nice.

Sounds like spider but run fuel pressure check and vacc checks. Could have intake manifold leaks. Get some ether and spray around the intake manifold. If you pull it I'd upgrade the spider to the mpfi such a huge upgrade. I'd clean and polish the intake and do an EGR block as well. just my .02 It will matter where you live and what your emmission regulation are though.

Turned out it needed a distro cap really badly. Serious corrosion under the cap, and the two rear-most plugs (cylinders 7 and 8) were black with soot. The rest looked fine. Explained why it woul run rough when I could get it to cough to life. Michigan has no regulations, so I'm not concerned there. I'd be curious to throw some "performance parts" at it for a little boost in power and driveability, but it really doesn't need it due to how good it runs.

Thats pretty ugly. No dissrespect. I wouldn't put much into it though. You'd be better off with a better frame and something with less rust. I just don't want you to spend too much on a rusty frame. I think if you want a good Tahoe or Yukon you can find a better chassis for a decent price to start with. After all iy starts from the ground up. If there are good parts pull them and scrap it start with a solid frame.

In the end it's all just deep surface rust. When it breaks, I'll look for a new truck. It's Michigan, and it's winter. The truck will sit this winter due to the brake lines and due to a failing ball joint that I just don't have time to repair right now. I'll use it for driving up and down my driveway to move snow, but that's it for now. Likely I'll save the engine for when I find a new chassis. Everything that has had to come apart on it has been good so far.

I'm about to do the same thing. It's not so bad I think I'm going to buy a flaring kit and bender tool. Nice to have for future endeavors. Good luck let us know how it goes if you have time.

I do not feel comfortable making new lines myself, to be honest.

 

[PG01]

I know about rust on frames, salty upstate NY.....every one of my cars....i hate going under them to do anything because a) it may have gotten worse and 2) how much crap will i get in my eyes today.....smh

Honestly, bending up and flaring your own lines is very simple, if you can do a normal maintenance, you can do that.