Need new struts and rear shocks.....

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09_4WD_YUKON

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Which ones are the best? I was thinking Bilstein 5100s, but don't really want/need adjustable for the front. But does that really matter with the 5100s? Or could I go with a different one for the front that is not adjustable?
 

Dustin Jackson

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If you want a strong firm suspension go for the 5100s, if you just want good comfortable shocks the 4600's will be softer than the 5100's. The only part of the bilsteins that is adjustable is the ride height, they have a very straightforward setting for factory height if that's all you want. Mine are set at factory height.
 

swathdiver

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Which ones are the best? I was thinking Bilstein 5100s, but don't really want/need adjustable for the front. But does that really matter with the 5100s? Or could I go with a different one for the front that is not adjustable?
Is that all you are replacing or are you going to replace all the parts of the struts, new springs for and aft with the mounts and insulators and such too?
 

SunnyInCo

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I am needing to replace my shocks. Only have 100,000 miles on my 2008 but starting to use on forest service roads more and more and need to upgrade from the original suspension. How do you know if the other parts, springs, etc need to be replaced? I will probably keep the factory height in the back but might raise the front up to the next setting on the bilstein's.
 

Joseph Garcia

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I am needing to replace my shocks. Only have 100,000 miles on my 2008 but starting to use on forest service roads more and more and need to upgrade from the original suspension. How do you know if the other parts, springs, etc need to be replaced? I will probably keep the factory height in the back but might raise the front up to the next setting on the bilstein's.
At 100,000 miles, the bushings on the suspension system will most likely be worn and in need of replacement. Springs are anyone's guess, but for me, when I replaced all 4 struts/shocks at 145,000 miles, I replaced all 4 springs along with the rubber mounts and insulators. I also replaced the upper and lower control arms on the front (new bushings and ball joints are included), and I also replaced the upper strut mounts, which contain bearings supporting the front of the truck for the front wheels to turn left and right.
 
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swathdiver

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I am needing to replace my shocks. Only have 100,000 miles on my 2008 but starting to use on forest service roads more and more and need to upgrade from the original suspension. How do you know if the other parts, springs, etc need to be replaced? I will probably keep the factory height in the back but might raise the front up to the next setting on the bilstein's.
Time and age. A 2008 is now about 13-14 years old. Visual inspection and performance under load or in use off-road. Take some frame measurements and see if they match the frame height chart for your truck. You can get this file in the GM Upfitter's website for free. My rears were beginning to squat a little under normal use and a lot towing a light trailer.

The front jounce bumpers were falling apart (they are in the struts) and the rears were beginning to and very cracked. How do the upper spring insulators (rubber thing inside front coils) look? Mine were falling apart. My strut mounts were still good so I kept them but in hindsight should have replaced them too so as not to have to take the front strut apart again for 150K miles or so.

Is yours a Z71? How do the rubber bushings in the ball joints and control arms and the boots on the axle shaft and over the inner tie rods look?

Here is the parts list for my truck. Many but not all will be the same for yours. Plug your VIN in at the link and make a note of which are different. Your front spring codes are the 6XX and 7XX on the RPO sheet in the glovebox. Of course, you'll decide what's needed now and or later. All of the part numbers are GM OE save for the rear coils 45H number, that is ACDelco Professional, cannot get OE anymore. ACDelco Professional and Moog CK series are the same parts in many cases while not as high quality as OE, have satisfied many on here with no complaints.


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09_4WD_YUKON

09_4WD_YUKON

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I'll bring this one back up since I just ordered the struts, new springs, and lower ball joints....was following what Dustin Jackson did with his. Now my next question is if I only have the CCM 2.5" leveling kit, are the Rough Country UCAs really needed? Thinking about adding a full lift kit next year (most likely the Zone kit). Should I wait and add them then?
 

Dustin Jackson

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For 2.5 I really would get lift style upper arms. The stock upper Ball joint is going to be maxed out with 2.5 inches of lift. If you plan on getting a full lift next year I would run without the additional lift for now.

Happy to report my Tahoe is holding up nicely.
 

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