mod withdraw!

[road1will]

1st) What rear springs did you go with?
2nd) What do changing the keys do? and where did you get them?
3rd) Do you have websites I can look at to order from?..(part specific?)
4th) Your truck look will look sick lowered..but great lifted as well
5th) Lets ALL lower our trucks on the forum just for RT! hahah


Dont be mad RT...our trucks are MEAN and sound BAD ASS while they are lowered with exhaust! hah!





Now...Convertibles and Stock trucks are for the

Word...nothing gayer than a convertible corvette.

 

[Rollin Thunder]

which is faster than anything else.

 

[tybardy]

Not faster then my Tahoe

 

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

im wondering if i can just drill and tap the holes... interesting none-the-less... Im gonna have to give this a look this weekend, and maybe even pick up a better jack... i ******* hate these factory jacks, they scare the shit out of me

i sparked my own interest and did this last night...lol. No pics as my camera was here at work...argh!

Very simple to do and now all of my small hand tools are hidden away in the previous jack compartment in the back!

 

[tybardy]

what did it take? have to drill a couple holes and then buy a couple bolts or something?

 

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

what did it take? have to drill a couple holes and then buy a couple bolts or something?

i used a 1/4 x 1 1/2" bolt with flat washer and lock nut, about a 1/4" x 1/2"lg self tapping screw i had from a garage door install..lol...

Used an existing hole in the plate for both holes in the jack's mounting plate and mounted it to an existing hole on the bracket near the fire wall and self tapped the front hole. Took 15 minutes!

 

[outlaw57]

I agree, upmost care must be taken, but the key has around shallow hole cast in it, with the pad of a c-clamp removed it is a ball end, so slipping is minimized and you only need this to assist in removing the bolt and the pad. after that cake.... with the bolt and the tapped pad removed, remove the crossmember, and you can take the torsion bar out if you so feel.

 

[tybardy]

GDI i am stupid once again... why would i remove the torsion bar?

 

[BOSS]

GDI i am stupid once again... why would i remove the torsion bar?

You don't have to.

BOSS *does the nerd pose again

 

[TheFuzz]

You don't have to remove the torsion bars, bro. But, depending on how rusted the keys are to the bars, they might fall out on their own when you're angrily beating the shit out the keys with a mallet trying to get them out, lol. If that happens, just make sure they go back in the same way that they came out.

Also, if you haven't read this yet, I highly reccommend it. You'll probably feel alot better about the project after you see the photos. The write up is geared more for guys who are lifting (it comes from FSC after all, lol), but the same priciples apply for replacing the keys and getting everything leveled up.

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums...keys-torsion-bar-cranking-replacing-tech.html

 

[BOSS]

But you are pulling the stock keys and putting in new ones in their place, so at the point where the key is removed - you have a loose bar with one end in the control arm and the key end with nothing.

My suggestion is not to remove the bar from the control arm at all, you could put the bars in a different way and end up with MY situation - one torsion bar is loaded different because it was removed and not put back in the same way as before. Over the years, weight and such can kind of bend the bar when it's loaded at a certain angle for so long. If you put them back in without taking note of their exact threaded position in the control arm, you could be unhappy. Until I redo my bars or buy new ones, my truck is higher on the pass side by 1/2 inch maybe less (edit). If I level it out with the keys, it lurches when I hit bumps because the tension is different on the driverside bar versus the passenger side bar.

Anyway, I wouldn't want someone else to be in my spot with a half inch off on a lowered vehicle...it looks like shit and it's the equivalent of half a foot on a jacked up truck IMHO.

B

 

[tybardy]

my truck as it sits stock right now sits 3/4" lower on the driver side already... and my understanding is that this is VERY common on these trucks...

i have never done anything like this though, the only car i have ever lowered myself was a friends 89 civic hatch and that was incredibly different

 

[BOSS]

my truck as it sits stock right now sits 3/4" lower on the driver side already... and my understanding is that this is VERY common on these trucks...

Yup it is definitely common. My front pass side is what I was referring to as sitting higher because of the bars put in wrong. The rear is altogether different and I think I said this before but I honestly think these trucks sit like that because of increased compression on the driver side body mounts. I'll know when I replace mine soon....

 

[J-Will]

you dont need a puller. i used a steel 5 or 6 inch C clamp. be careful.

 

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

you dont need a puller. i used a steel 5 or 6 inch C clamp. be careful.

what exactly are you running for your drop front and rear?

Pat

 

[tybardy]

how much can you drop the front end by adjusting the two bolts on the cross member?

---------- Post added at 10:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 PM ----------

also, it looks like the three jaw puller wont work.... looks like a two jaw it needed

 

[Grocery Getter]

[/COLOR]also, it looks like the three jaw puller wont work.... looks like a two jaw it needed[/QUOTE]

Most pullers come apart and can be 2 or 3 jaw...... they come disassembled in the package.....some, mine did.

 

[OKLAGMCRUISER]

how much can you drop the front end by adjusting the two bolts on the cross member?

---------- Post added at 10:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 PM ----------

also, it looks like the three jaw puller wont work.... looks like a two jaw it needed

about 1 to 1.5" is about all you can get without severe ride changes...you'll need an alignment check after adjusting though.

 

[TheFuzz]

also, it looks like the three jaw puller wont work.... looks like a two jaw it needed

I just re-read what I typed. Not sure what I was thinking man, sorry. It was a 7-ton two jaw puller that we used.

Just an FYI, we did try using a C-clamp at first (not my idea, but it wasn't my shop lol). The handle ended up bending, it wasn't strong enough to move the key. If you do end up using one, be super careful.

 

[tybardy]

now i might figure this out when i get under there this weekend, but which direction do i adjust the bolt to go down? (i.e. counterclockwise or lossening the bolt = lower)