Magneride Z95 air ride suspension question

[JPS0284]

I’m having issues with the suspension on my 13’ Escalade. The RF strut is bad, I ordered a pair of oem struts, the air compressor doesn’t run when activating it with my scan tool, so I have a replacement compressor on the way. The LR shock had a short to ground suspension fault and currently displays “open circuit”. I haven’t had the chance to inspect the wiring integrity to confirm the shock is bad but it wouldn’t surprise me if it was. The RR air shock reads 2.5psi which seems low? I don’t have any experience with the Z95 suspension systems to know what’s normal/abnormal. I’ve attached the scan tool screenshots of the suspensions live data, does anything other then the RF strut and LR shock look abnormal? What would you expect the resting air shock pressure to be while driving in normal conditions?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I am not very familiar with the Z95 scanner values, as I have the Z55 suspension. However, I would think that the rear shocks air pressure should be in the neighborhood of 20-25 psi with not heavy loads in the rear.

Other members of this Forum with the Z95 suspension will chime in.

 

[Doubeleive]

I’m having issues with the suspension on my 13’ Escalade. The RF strut is bad, I ordered a pair of oem struts, the air compressor doesn’t run when activating it with my scan tool, so I have a replacement compressor on the way. The LR shock had a short to ground suspension fault and currently displays “open circuit”. I haven’t had the chance to inspect the wiring integrity to confirm the shock is bad but it wouldn’t surprise me if it was. The RR air shock reads 2.5psi which seems low? I don’t have any experience with the Z95 suspension systems to know what’s normal/abnormal. I’ve attached the scan tool screenshots of the suspensions live data, does anything other then the RF strut and LR shock look abnormal? What would you expect the resting air shock pressure to be while driving in normal conditions?

if the pump burned out it is likely because the shock bladders are leaking, that's just how it goes.....
other than that normal resting psi without a load on the vehicle in my experience is around 20-25 psi
once you get your replacement pump installed you can check for shock bladder leaks with a spray bottle of soap and water mix, spray the shocks and watch for bubbles.
you can also just let it sit overnight and before you start it up in the morning reach under the rear wheel and feel the bladder by hand it should hold air for several weeks without the pump running, but if it is flat by morning then you know for sure there is a leak.
you could also check by driving around for a little bit and pull over and feel the bladders without cycling the key to get a better idea of how bad the leak is. (if there is a leak)

 

[JPS0284]

I am not very familiar with the Z95 scanner values, as I have the Z55 suspension. However, I would think that the rear shocks air pressure should be in the neighborhood of 20-25 psi with not heavy loads in the rear.

Other members of this Forum with the Z95 suspension will chime in.

20-25 psi seems appropriate in comparison to a truck/suv tire pressure ~ 30-40 psi. I’m curious to find out what’s acceptable damper actuator values are for the Z95. I wish this would of happened last week my all data sub just expired earlier this week…All else fails I’ll re-sub and post whatever relevant information I can find for anyone with similar future issues.

 

[JPS0284]

if the pump burned out it is likely because the shock bladders are leaking, that's just how it goes.....
other than that normal resting psi without a load on the vehicle in my experience is around 20-25 psi
once you get your replacement pump installed you can check for shock bladder leaks with a spray bottle of soap and water mix, spray the shocks and watch for bubbles.
you can also just let it sit overnight and before you start it up in the morning reach under the rear wheel and feel the bladder by hand it should hold air for several weeks without the pump running, but if it is flat by morning then you know for sure there is a leak.
you could also check by driving around for a little bit and pull over and feel the bladders without cycling the key to get a better idea of how bad the leak is. (if there is a leak)

Thanks for this info, I’ll definitely use that method to check for leaks. I’ve owned the truck for little over 2years and never heard the compressor kick on, even while towing my 17ft fishing boat. When I scanned the suspension control module there was a short list of faults one being “LR damper actuator short to ground” followed by “LR damper actuator open circuit”. I feel like that’s enough story for a high likelkyness it’s bad but at $300 a shock I’ll definitely check over the wiring and give it a through bubble bath.

 

[JPS0284]

New problem… I have the OEM magneride struts and replacement springs but having a hard time finding a shop that will disassemble the old struts. I brought them to the shop that initially told me yes when inquiring about it a month-ish ago now acted as if I was asking them to disassemble a nuclear reactor or something and doesn’t want any liability if the strut gets damaged…I have a buddy that works in a collision shop he’s trying to help source me a place to go…

 

[petethepug]

This was resolved in the post below

So I just received my OEM replacement mag struts and new 1” drop springs and removed the defective struts. Now I’m having a hard time finding a shop that will disassemble the old struts to transfer the bellows bump stop and mount onto the new strut and compress the new spring… I called a Lentz and got a really hard no, this
Alignment shop that does some strut work didn’t want anything to do with the magneride struts and started acting like I was asking him to disassembled a nuclear reactor…just wondering has anyone had any luck finding a mainstream shop to do this type of work?