Loose steering still

[LVNeptune]

I took it to a shop a month or two back to have a ton of work done. Intake manifold gaskets, leaks, flushes, shocks, they replaced the steering shaft the uca's and bushings I believe but the steering is still slightly loose to the left and right a few inches then it is nice and tight.

If I am on uneven ground the wheels pull to that side of the street an I find myself cutting the wheel 1/4 turn opposite to keep it straight.

I had them check and recheck and they say nothing has any play to it.

They said the steering gearbox isn't leaking or anything as well.

Any ideas? I trust the shop but they do specialize in imports more than domestics however this is a standard mechanical issue and not engine or anything so I doubt it has anything to do with that

Sorry for any typos. Typing on my phone.

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

Your steering gear box is worn out. This happens often after freshening up the rest of the steering components, tightening everything else up and that puts strain on an already worn out gear box. Replace it and ride right....

 

[LVNeptune]

What's a good price on a gearbox? I've seen them for around $250 On amazon. Also how long would it take an inexperienced person such as myself to replace a gearbox?

I figured it was probably the gearbox with worn out teeth or something. I assume they have some sort of clutch/teeth inside since it is called a gearbox

---------- Post added at 11:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 AM ----------

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=303579&postcount=7 does this apply to mine as well? Definitely wouldn't mind trying this before getting a new gearbox

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

Yes, you can try tightening the nut, but if you have had a lot of other work done to improve thigns already, and you have that much play in the wheel and the wheels are tracking wrong like you described, I am betting it wouldn't help enough in your case.

$250 is a decent price, you may want to check with SuperchargedSS on the site here, he is a Vendor for OEMPartsDirect and may be able to save you some coin on that.

You may want to also go ahead and get another pitman arm while you are at it, depending on how long the play has been there it may be stripped itself or on it's way.

Just about anyone should be able to change a gear box out in about three hours or less. There isn't a lot to it. Just disconnect the intermitent steering shaft under the hood, remove the pitman arm and remove the bolts that hold the gear box to the frame and then install the new one. Making sure to torque everything properly during installation.

 

[bowtiefreak]

Pitman or ider also. But I agree the steering boxes go on these trucks

 

[LVNeptune]

There are ac Delco remans on amazon for $230 or a reman one on eBay for $140. No brand on the eBay one I think. They say it's oem and lifetime warranty on the eBay one though.

Any recommendations?

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

Is there a core charge? I say do what you can do, if you get a lifetime warranty on the one from Ebay go for it, if it goes out again they replace it.

 

[LVNeptune]

$30 on eBay but they don't ship until they get the core which doesn't make sense but yea. Probably grab the ac Delco at least I recognize the branding.

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

The heck with that. So the truck has to sit for at the very least 7-10 days while everything is shipped back and forth. Not good at all.

Yeah, the AcDelco would be the choice for me as well on that one.

 

[LVNeptune]

Just ordered them up, pitman and idler with gearbox. Any step by step on what to remove to do this. I would like to attempt it myself. I replaced the o2 sensors recently and that one on the front passenger side was nuts!

This is about the sum experience of doing anything in the last few years mechanical related. I did fix my windshield wiper motor pc. The other day but I am an expert at soldering so that was easy as hell

 

[Freedom Motorsports]

Since you are replacing the gear box go ahead and find yourself one of these to remove the pitman arm. For the idler arm you can use the same thing or go to autozone and ask to use their pitman arm puller from their loan a tool and use it on the idler arm. The one most autozones keep on hand will not fit onto the bottom of the pitman arm, the right puller can be had if ordered at carquest, it is a similar design to the one at autozone, but smaller with a center bolt with a lower profile.

Loosen bolts on the idler arm, and remove. Do the same with the pitman arm. Remove the inner fender liner removing the push tabs using two screw drivers in the opposite tabs to pull them out. Careful there, don't stab yourself.

Once out, use a 15 mm socket or wrench, (rachet wrench does great) to remove the bolt connecting the intermitent steering shaft to the gear box input shaft. When the bolt is out wiggle and work the top shaft upward to remove it from the gear box shaft.

Disconnect PS fluid hard lines at the top of the gear box.

Once that is done use I believe an 18mm socket to remove the bolts on the outside of the frame rail in the fender area that are holding the gear box on.

Reinstall new parts in opposite order making sure to torque everything as you go and you should be good to go.

 

[LVNeptune]

Maybe I am blind but I can not see any kind of Allen wrench adjustment screw on the gearbox. Assuming what I am looking at is the gearbox is the screw accessible from the top of the vehicle or under? I followed the steering shaft to a box so I'm assuming that is it. Maybe someone has a picture?

 

[992dr]

I wouldnt recommend using a pickle fork to remove either the pitman arm or idler arm. They are pressed on, its not like a ball joint where you wack it and it loosens it. It takes an extreme amount of force to get them off. That is why they have idler arm and pitman arm removers. Plus, its a hell of a lot easier, hah. Heck, I had to bring mine to a shop to get mine off. Ended up using a torch to heat it up and it finally broke free.

You might want to get a replacement idle arm bracket, they tend to wear as well.

The screw is accessible from on top of the gear box. You cant miss it. It has a nut on it and is set inbetween 4 screws. The nut is actually threaded on the adjuster. The center of the threaded rod has an allen head pressed in it.

 

[LVNeptune]

The screw wouldn't move.

Found a guy on Craigslist that is super good n cheap. Fixed up my a/c too.

Had him install all the stuff there is STILL play in the wheel. It seems slightly better but still not optimal IMO. Is there something from the steering shaft to the steering wheel that could cause it?

 

[SunlitComet]

just the telescoping shaft.

 

[LVNeptune]

What's that do and is it possible this could do it? I just don't get it.

 

[SunlitComet]

on shaft rides inside of other allow the steering column to collapses in crash they could be wearing out against each other creating the play.

 

[LVNeptune]

Did you typo that I can't understand what you just said lol

 

[992dr]

Its a two peice shaft. One rides inside the other. It could be warn out and need replacing.
Did your guy adjust the steering gear in both locations?

---------- Post added at 09:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 PM ----------

Here is a link that seems to be pretty popular.
The last page has some pretty useful info


http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/...how-i-got-rid-my-steering-slop-cheap-obs.html

 

[LVNeptune]

No but the instructions from ac Delco specifically said NOT to adjust it.