Is this frame too late to save ?

[Five3brian]

First time poster, I have a 2009 yukon SLT 5.3


I really want to build this truck and put money into it, but the only thing stopping me is this damn rust. I live in Michigan and got this a few months ago.
It could be worse, but is this worth saving at all?

 

[15burban]

I'd start by poking around everywhere on the frame with a screw driver and see if you can find any soft spots. If there's no soft spots I'd clean it up with a wire wheel the best you can and either por 15 or even rustoleum rust converter as much as you can. Also pickup a bunch of fluid film and spray it inside all the holes in the frame and also anywhere you can't apply the rust converter.

 

[tom3]

Maybe worst part might be the body mount areas in the floor pan. Those areas are shaped so they trap water/salt and you can't actually see the damage until it's really a mess. See the same thing you're looking at here in Ohio. Clean/paint that frame as much as possible, then I start shooting used motor oil in all the holes and cracks inside the boxed parts. Park in gravel or put cardboard under it for a few days. You can stop any future damage.

 

[strutaeng]

No telling from our computer screens' perspective TBH.

If you can find a spec on what the thickness of the frame is, you can try hitting a spot with a flap disc and check the thickness with some dial calipers. That will tell you how much section loss has occurred.

I don't have to deal with road salt on vehicles here, but this is what I do when assessing corrosion on steel structures (mostly buildings.)

Good luck.

 

[Five3brian]

I'd start by poking around everywhere on the frame with a screw driver and see if you can find any soft spots. If there's no soft spots I'd clean it up with a wire wheel the best you can and either por 15 or even rustoleum rust converter as much as you can. Also pickup a bunch of fluid film and spray it inside all the holes in the frame and also anywhere you can't apply the rust converter.

Will definitely try that, i appreciate it. So far i’ve took a spray bottle and squirted transmission fluid inside the door plugs and in the fenders a bit, so hopefully that’ll help slow body rust down too.

 

[Five3brian]

No telling from our computer screens' perspective TBH.

If you can find a spec on what the thickness of the frame is, you can try hitting a spot with a flap disc and check the thickness with some dial calipers. That will tell you how much section loss has occurred.

I don't have to deal with road salt on vehicles here, but this is what I do when assessing corrosion on steel structures (mostly buildings.)

Good luck.

Never thought of that! Thanks

 

[George B]

From a veteran rust belt warrior...
That frame isn't so bad. I have repaired and continued to drive way worse.
Cleanup all the areas you can get to with a scraper or wire brush, Pick the hottest, most humid day you can and soak it with Krud-Kutter and rinse it off after about 10 minutes. let that dry a day or so and them spray the entire underbody with Fluid-Film. that should do it.

 

[George B]

Be aware the brake and fuel lines that run along the fuel tank and the line across in the front get crusty. Make all those repairs before you make a mess with the Fluid-film.

 

[blackelky]

Be aware the brake and fuel lines that run along the fuel tank and the line across in the front get crusty. Make all those repairs before you make a mess with the Fluid-film.

^this that stuff adds up probably trans lines too

 

[B-train]

Geez....that looks rough. I see nothing but a long list of repairs, replacements, cuss words, and disappointment with it. I'd just drive it like it is and save up some money. Then, schedule a vacation to a southern or western location to find a clean replacement that you can start with a clean slate from.

 

[Five3brian]

^this that stuff adds up probably trans lines too

Geez....that looks rough. I see nothing but a long list of repairs, replacements, cuss words, and disappointment with it. I'd just drive it like it is and save up some money. Then, schedule a vacation to a southern or western location to find a clean replacement that you can start with a clean slate from.

Yeah that was my concern smh, i’ll probably just save for a ‘15 6.2 yukon/escalade or ‘14 srt cherokee

 

[B-train]

Yeah that was my concern smh, i’ll probably just save for a ‘15 6.2 yukon/escalade or ‘14 srt cherokee

That sounds like a good plan. I've had good luck over the last 13 years of going down south, southwest, or WAY out west to buy Yukon Denali's (5 total). They do require a little more research up front to try and get the best feel possible for what you are looking for, but I've had good luck with 4 of 5.

Then, with 2 gallons of fluid film, some grubby clothes, a beverage of choice, and your favorite tunes blasting - you are all set to double the life of the vehicle in the midwest. Couple that with some good preventative maintenance and you have a nice, new to you, vehicle for a fraction of the cost of a new one.

 

[Five3brian]

That sounds like a good plan. I've had good luck over the last 13 years of going down south, southwest, or WAY out west to buy Yukon Denali's (5 total). They do require a little more research up front to try and get the best feel possible for what you are looking for, but I've had good luck with 4 of 5.

Then, with 2 gallons of fluid film, some grubby clothes, a beverage of choice, and your favorite tunes blasting - you are all set to double the life of the vehicle in the midwest. Couple that with some good preventative maintenance and you have a nice, new to you, vehicle for a fraction of the cost of a new one.

Hell yeah, gonna do that with the next one I get! Just have to pay on this one for a bit longer…

 

[hillstrubl]

I'd try to save it. I really like saltsgone for a good cleaning. Then some Ospho or naval jelly, literally paint it everywhere, try to get in the cracks/holes, then saltsgone again (+ this is fantastic). Let dry for a full day or more. Then I'd POR15/Eastman frame paint it, the latter sells a long tube 6 way nozzle to get inside the frame rails. Let dry for several hours, then fluid film everything. It goes to say, take off as many heat shields and plastic dust shields before you do this.

 

[petethepug]

How many bolts hold the frame to the body?

It sure would ride nice with some new oem frame bushings on it.

 

[OR VietVet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

I plan on a new to me GMT800 3/4 ton truck soon. Then my no rust GMT800 Z71 is for sale. No rust here in Oregon. See my build thread, anyone, for what was done and lots of pics.

 

[Five3brian]

How many bolts hold the frame to the body?

It sure would ride nice with some new oem frame bushings on it.

Not sure, will have to check that when i can.

 

[Five3brian]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

I plan on a new to me GMT800 3/4 ton truck soon. Then my no rust GMT800 Z71 is for sale. No rust here in Oregon. See my build thread, anyone, for what was done and lots of pics.

Will definitely be going through your posts!

 

[B-train]

Will definitely be going through your posts!

Road Trip!!!

 

[B-train]

I'd try to save it. I really like saltsgone for a good cleaning. Then some Ospho or naval jelly, literally paint it everywhere, try to get in the cracks/holes, then saltsgone again (+ this is fantastic). Let dry for a full day or more. Then I'd POR15/Eastman frame paint it, the latter sells a long tube 6 way nozzle to get inside the frame rails. Let dry for several hours, then fluid film everything. It goes to say, take off as many heat shields and plastic dust shields before you do this.

Wow! That's some interesting stuff. What's you experience with it? How does it work long term for salt covered vehicles?