I want to replace my ignition coil, which one do you recommend Tahoe 5.3 2007

[DJPoertsch]

Hello to my friends here at the forum.

As i wrote above, I plan to replace my hole 8 ignition coils in my Tahoe 5.3 2007. Because if it is rain outside, and I start my Tahoe I can feel some soft shaking at my steering wheel for some minutes.
I had already changed the spark plugs to NKG Iridium about 51000 km ago, but I also want to replace them again. I drive most with LPG and there for a shorter Replacement time are recommended.
But the main reason are the ignition coil. They are more than 150000 km inside my Tahoe so I Think i should spend him some new once.
So, which one you would tell me that I could buy? I found some on Rock-Auto (Brand "Standard Motor Products") also on eBay, some High Performance from REV in Red. So do you have some other ideas which one are good or should I take them on eBay. Because if I order from Germany, I have to hold in behind tax and toll costs.

It would be nice if you can help me to make the right decision, or writing me which once you use and what kind of experience do had with them.

Thanks a lot Markus from Germany.

 

[OR VietVet]

Round shaped coils: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...CxdHWXUOBRyv5uYB2c0toC2iqw8CVkQhWw1dmSdbkwijx

Square shaped coils: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...CxdHWXUOBRyv5uYB2c0toC2iqw8CVkQhWw1dmSdbkwijx

I would stick with AC Delco or Genuine GM or Denso. Not Standard. The originals lasted this long, why change.

 

[Geotrash]

Round shaped coils: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11447661&cc=1433255&pt=7060&jsn=918&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86+AYIhT5Z528+oowGAOo/p70QYUYzAVDmNoCrMvHoExYgAUjRWxR3FF4s0a3nGpxYp309AKKBx7uVmWxom5MFyXiUOIEmnj05BTjDWb8rAvBtK3gSFxZs1NP57T7eZJo5HL9epyiCMMDTA88jfNvcujauL1JFL1ocBjOe8Dm+XSo5ltpaKMXTeE8m1lN09C9UkHlRMISf55BdMYyNIG/mudNqcoVcgb/HcSCkiPvj0MFWtRixZGyMjZJ3CxdHWXUOBRyv5uYB2c0toC2iqw8CVkQhWw1dmSdbkwijx

Square shaped coils: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4718739&cc=1433255&pt=7060&jsn=919&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86+AYIhT5Z528+oowGAOo/p70QYUYzAVDmNoCrMvHoExYgAUjRWxR3FF4s0a3nGpxYp309AKKBx7uVmWxom5MFyXiUOIEmnj05BTjDWb8rAvBtK3gSFxZs1NP57T7eZJo5HL9epyiCMMDTA88jfNvcujauL1JFL1ocBjOe8Dm+XSo5ltpaKMXTeE8m1lN09C9UkHlRMISf55BdMYyNIG/mudNqcoVcgb/HcSCkiPvj0MFWtRixZGyMjZJ3CxdHWXUOBRyv5uYB2c0toC2iqw8CVkQhWw1dmSdbkwijx

I would stick with AC Delco or Genuine GM or Denso. Not Standard. The originals lasted this long, why change.

+1. I have 350000 km on the originals in my 2007 and they're still working fine. This is a part where OEM is hard to beat.

I'm also inclined to think it's something other than the coils in this case. In the old days of distributors and wires, there were reasons to suspect the ignition system as the fault source of rough running in the rain. These days, there are many other possible culprits including the MAF.

 

[gooffeyguy]

What about the plug wires, have you changed those yet? If not, I'd do those before dropping the coin on the coils.

 

[DJPoertsch]

+1. I have 350000 km on the originals in my 2007 and they're still working fine. This is a part where OEM is hard to beat.

I'm also inclined to think it's something other than the coils in this case. In the old days of distributors and wires, there were reasons to suspect the ignition system as the fault source of rough running in the rain. These days, there are many other possible culprits including the MAF.

I am with you. I think I have to test first others before spending the money. I will see why it is only at the wet weather condition. It is not a ruff riding only you feel that he will not run as smooth as in the morning. Because at night he stays in a warm, dry garage. I will check first with my test software if I would get any codes shown. I think the problem woul be with my Spark plugs. Because LPG the lifetime is much shorter as regular gas. I will spend him new once and order also some new plugs. But i ha already change them to some with a lifetime warranty. I will check if I see something on the head of the plug, so I could see with one could be the defective one. Thank you for you’re answer.

 

[DJPoertsch]

What about the plug wires, have you changed those yet? If not, I'd do those before dropping the coin on the coils.

Thanks for the information. I was change them I think 40000 km ago. As I'm answering before, I will first order new spark plugs and for safety also a full set of wires. So i think in case I Drive with LPG maybe a spark plug had a defective. But it is not that you feel it hard. It is only a light vibration in the steering wheel, and it feels that it runs not as smooth as in the morning out of the warm garage. Thanks for answering me..

 

[BG1988]

Hello to my friends here at the forum.

As i wrote above, I plan to replace my hole 8 ignition coils in my Tahoe 5.3 2007. Because if it is rain outside, and I start my Tahoe I can feel some soft shaking at my steering wheel for some minutes.
I had already changed the spark plugs to NKG Iridium about 51000 km ago, but I also want to replace them again. I drive most with LPG and there for a shorter Replacement time are recommended.
But the main reason are the ignition coil. They are more than 150000 km inside my Tahoe so I Think i should spend him some new once.
So, which one you would tell me that I could buy? I found some on Rock-Auto (Brand "Standard Motor Products") also on eBay, some High Performance from REV in Red. So do you have some other ideas which one are good or should I take them on eBay. Because if I order from Germany, I have to hold in behind tax and toll costs.

It would be nice if you can help me to make the right decision, or writing me which once you use and what kind of experience do had with them.

Thanks a lot Markus from Germany.

replace all of them other wise it will be unbalanced or get one from a junk yard

 

[DJPoertsch]

Hello everyone. Since my topic is still topical and I probably have a defective coil here, I wanted to attach a stamp again. What do you think of the NGK 49471 Performance Ignition Coils? Can you also recommend them? At least they are almost 20 euros cheaper than GM.

Thanks Markus

 

[Donal]

The cold start issue sounds more like a lpg system not enriching the mixture for cold operation.

 

[Geotrash]

Hello everyone. Since my topic is still topical and I probably have a defective coil here, I wanted to attach a stamp again. What do you think of the NGK 49471 Performance Ignition Coils? Can you also recommend them? At least they are almost 20 euros cheaper than GM.

Thanks Markus

NGK is an OEM supplier to GM for ignition components, so I suspect they will be good coils.

 

[DJPoertsch]

Hallo friends. I was replacing now the Spark Plugs and the wires also the coils. But if you can read as follow, i don't think my problem would be coming from the ignition.

Hello my friends from the forum. I currently have a problem that I can't quite figure out. It manifests itself as follows. When I have to drive up a hill and I accelerate my Tahoe and then hold the accelerator pedal, I hear the engine for about 3 seconds, as if the cylinder deactivation is active and it doesn't want to accelerate properly during this time, then it stops after 3 seconds and you can feel it pushing forward. This repeats itself at longer intervals only when I'm under load. At first I thought it was the ignition and completely replaced the spark plugs, cables and ignition coil. I drive with LPG here in Germany. But that wasn't the problem. Then I got the Tahoe up to 3000 rpm in the garage while it was standing still and held the gas and I noticed that at certain intervals it suddenly pushes the rpm up for about 2 seconds. As if something was accelerating on its own. I replaced the air mass meter 2 years ago. Do you have any idea where I could look again. I have this phenomenon with LPG and petrol.

I was opening a new post for this issue. So maybe some have any Idea..


Thanks to everyone.

 

[Donal]

Well, its been almost 50 years since I severiced a vehicle with LPG system. I am sure the LPg system has changed since then. Maybe you can post information on the LPG conversion system that has been installed your vehicle.

 

[DJPoertsch]

Well, its been almost 50 years since I severiced a vehicle with LPG system. I am sure the LPg system has changed since then. Maybe you can post information on the LPG conversion system that has been installed your vehicle.

I used a Prins VSI with Valve Care. I have a great workshop that knows a lot about LPG systems. They had already removed all the injectors and tested the rail on the test bench and they inject perfectly. What initially prompted me to change the spark plugs, ignition coils and cables was that I couldn't see the same red plug combustion pattern on the front right of the first cylinder of my Tahoe. All the other spark plugs were consistently red, only this one remained white, or rather grey, before the coil was changed. The strange thing is that this loss of power can only be felt and heard in the noise of the engine when I really step on the gas and use up power. It then feels as if the cylinder deactivation is switched on for a brief moment... But that can't be because I switched it off using my Diabolo programming device.

 

[Donal]

Do you still have the orginal air intake housing, filter system installed? Does the front o2sensors on both side react the same to WFO throttle action? (WFO is wide open.) Can you do a leak down test on cylinder number 2? Have the volm cover been removed? Does the engine have the DOD lifters installed? If you remove the Diabolo device, does the condtion still occur? Has the oil pan been removed? Is the screen below the oil pressure switch been removed? What is the normal oil pressure at normal temperature and at autoban speed? I understand the Diabolo stops the injectors from firing and the dod oil flow solinoids from opening. Does your fuel system allow switching between LPG and gasoline? Is the condition occuring on when LPG and gasoline?

 

[DJPoertsch]

Do you still have the orginal air intake housing, filter system installed? Does the front o2sensors on both side react the same to WFO throttle action? (WFO is wide open.) Can you do a leak down test on cylinder number 2? Have the volm cover been removed? Does the engine have the DOD lifters installed? If you remove the Diabolo device, does the condtion still occur? Has the oil pan been removed? Is the screen below the oil pressure switch been removed? What is the normal oil pressure at normal temperature and at autoban speed? I understand the Diabolo stops the injectors from firing and the dod oil flow solinoids from opening. Does your fuel system allow switching between LPG and gasoline? Is the condition occuring on when LPG and gasoline?

I found the problem. It is the air conditioning compressor. As soon as it turns on, I lose a lot of power. I had never had that before. As soon as the compressor clutch engages, I have a massive loss of performance. That I can hear it as described on the engine noise even really loud. My question now. Can you replace the clutch on the compressor or should I replace it completely.? It still cools, but the loss of power is really annoying

 

[Donal]

Check the refridigerant pressures and determine compressor function. The high pressure may be low if the compressor is not pumping sufficient flow and presenting a high load. When the clutch is engaged, the compressor and clutch rotate as one unit.

 

[donjetman]

I found the problem. It is the air conditioning compressor. As soon as it turns on, I lose a lot of power. I had never had that before. As soon as the compressor clutch engages, I have a massive loss of performance. That I can hear it as described on the engine noise even really loud. My question now. Can you replace the clutch on the compressor or should I replace it completely.? It still cools, but the loss of power is really annoying

If it was robbing very much power it would break or pitch off the little ac belt.

 

[DJPoertsch]

First of all, thanks for the tips. By chance, I have already found a few posts here in the forum that had the same problem as me. In this case, cleaning of the throttle valve was suggested. Someone wrote that a user had replaced the compressor and it didn't work at first. Only the cleaning of the throttle flap would have helped. How could this be related? I only did an air conditioning service 3 days ago and replaced the service valve and also the gasket. I'll take a look at my throttle tomorrow

 

[Donal]

What was serviced 3 days ago? Did you add oil and refrigerant to the system? The AC compressor wants to pump vapor not liquid. The correct amount of refrigerant and correct oil for the refrigerant are critical to correct operation. Did you add oil thru the suction line?

 

[DJPoertsch]

I have a professional Aircon Sevice device in our workshop. We first vacuumed everything to eliminate a small leak on the service valve of the air conditioning system. The valve seal was no longer so good. After that, 1134g of refrigerant and 336g of oil were filled. According to GM's specifications