How to recharge your AC

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ravingmadman

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We've had two threads on problematic A/C in the last couple days, and it is my belief that most A/C just needs a recharge, or it is an obvious problem, otherwise you need a shop to help you diagnose the problem. Not a whole lot of middle ground. If you want to understand how AC works, PM me, but this isn't the time/place. Here's how you do it, in really, really basic steps...

Go to Schucks and buy a really, really big can of 134a Refridgerant. You will need two big cans (at least) if your system is totally discharged. Get the one with the pistol grip, trigger, and pressure guage (like in the picture). It is reusable, so in the future if you're A/C isn't quite getting there, you can just buy a short bottle (like I did) and plus up your system.

Buy this:


Start your hoe, and turn the AC to max, if you have rear AC turn it to max too. Find the "low side service port" on the top of the engine (don't ask me, I'm not bankrupt:happy175:) here (click on the link- the arrow isn't really showing up in the thumbnail):


Unscrew the cap on it:


I recommend you put on some insulated gloves, because your hands will get cold coming up. Connect your bottle and hose thingy to it. It works like a regular high-pressure fitting like on an air compressor hose- pull the ring back, push the hose on the port until it clicks, then release the ring to lock the hose on the port. You will be able to read the AC system's pressure (or lack of) at this point. For about $20. :headbang:


As the pump cycles, you'll be able to watch the system charge and discharge on the pressure guage. The warning labels on the bottle are going to put the fear of the Holy Spirit into you warning you not to overcharge the system. I recommend you flagrantly disregard these warnings. Rock the bottle from upside down (12 o'clock) to it's side (3 o'clock) back and forth about every second, nice and gently. You'll feel the oil inside sloshing around. Pull the trigger on the bottle, and the pressure will drop to zero. Keep rocking the bottle back and forth so even amounts of gas and liquid enter the system.

Do this until your pressure is cycling in the blue range of the pressure gauge (25-45PSI) and/or your pump is staying on full time. I am not sure what the book says, but this is the point at which I stop, and get back in my hoe to enjoy the cool air.

Troubleshooting no pressure/no pump operation:
If your compressor isn't turning on, there's a safety that disables the pump if the pressure gets too low, so don't fret. When you connect the bottle up, and pull the trigger, when there's no pump operation, you'll develop really high pressure (150PSI+) until the system evens itself out. I had zero pressure, then put a 2-second burst in, not knowing any better, and my pressure spiked to about 150. I just kept adding though (i figured at least if something broke, I'd know what to fix, right?), and eventually the compressor started (that's a really good feeling) and the pressure immediately dropped. Then as the system filled, the needle fluctuated less and less with the pump cycles, until it was finally bouncing in the blue, and then staying pegged halfway between, with the compressor running 100% of the time. And some very cold air coming out.

Hope that helps!!! Best of luck!!:drunk:

Kjell
 

Rebelution

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Ok I did this today and got the compressor to turn on, which sounds like shit by the way, and I still have no cold air. I only used about half a can and it put the pressure in the blue zone even though I had no pressure to begin with. The compressor stays turned on but I'm not getting any cold air. Any ideas?
 

Arctic-Rodz

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my a/c sux too. The air is just fresh, not cold. Im gonna have to give this a shot. Is there a way to tell if theres a leak with the guage that comes with the a/c "booster"??
 

jayman8200

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is there any way to get the compressor to come on, my compressor isnt kicking on, i hooked thhe bottle up to the port and the pressure was about 75psi, i shook the can and everything and it still didnt kick on. is there any trick i need to do to get it on?
 

txhoescrapin

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Maybe be a bad comp... Only really 3 reasons it won't kick on is due to lack of freon, or your low pressure switch went bad or the compressor went bad. I am not a mechanic but I think I am right.
 

jayman8200

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i finally got it, the kit i bought, after i connected it i had to push it in to get it to suck and once i pushed it in the compressor kicked on. i have a/c now...the guy i bought the truck from said there is a leak in the lines, but i havent had a need to use it yet so i guess i will have to find it out soon. my wife's cousin has a shop that has a dye tester and can do it for me.
 

Mild

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I did this the other day actually, before reading this thread.


put in 2 pounds of the stuff, and the AC is blowing cold like brand new.

got the same kit for reusability too.....

wierd thing tho, the Rear A/C was always cold, and the front was barely cool.

any reason for that?

now its all cold though, just thought that was a little odd and worth asking about.

if the question cant go here, thats fine, just LMK.

-Robin
 

994door

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if the compressor wont come on unplug switch at passenger fire wall and use a paper clip to jump across the terminals just make sure the switches in the truck are on. This is the low pressure cutoff switch it keep the compressor from coming on. The switch is attaches to the aluminum can usually wrapped in foam. I kinda of babbled if unsure of what i am talking about let me know i will get a pic for you
 

bowtiefreak

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Mine is bouncing from the high green down to the low blue as it cycles. Any advice on this? I don't want to keep adding and jumping the pressure way up.
 

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ravingmadman

ravingmadman

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Yup, keep adding pressure, Bowtie. It will even out. If it doesn't, there's a pressure relief that will pop, vent, and then you know you have another problem... But mine did this in the beginning too. Eventually the needle will just cycle within the green. Make sure you rock the can back on forth to get both gas and oil into the system as well.
:drunk:
 

Arctic-Rodz

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I did this the other day actually, before reading this thread.


put in 2 pounds of the stuff, and the AC is blowing cold like brand new.

got the same kit for reusability too.....

wierd thing tho, the Rear A/C was always cold, and the front was barely cool.

any reason for that?

now its all cold though, just thought that was a little odd and worth asking about.

if the question cant go here, thats fine, just LMK.

-Robin

Same here! my rear a/c is cold and the front is just fresh. I should try putting a can of this stuff in mine. Hope it does it. Texas summers are already being felt here. was 98 yesterday:shocked:
 

bowtiefreak

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Madman, thanks! I am back in business. I'll tell you though, having that 383 running with me all in the engine bay is HOT. Luckily it sucked up the cans quickly.
 

Arctic-Rodz

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ok, im about to do mine... the plug ("low side service port") on mine is blue... whats up with that? does it just unscrew or just pull out?

---------- Post added at 05:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:08 PM ----------

ok.... did it. it is colder. i used 1 18oz can. mmmm... i feel like having a beer now
 

matuerob

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need help

What if its in the red? how can you tell if it is your panel?
 

newmarketeod

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Be VERY careful with the fix-a-leak style refrigerant as well!
For 1, it can clog components of your AC system. Once this happens the pressure can build up and rupture an AC line. (Not Fun!)
And 2, if there is any mention of the stop leak stuff in your system alot of shops wont touch your AC because it can ruin their equipment.
 

KPOD

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Bumping an old thread I know :worship:

My AC was blowing real warm, as in no cool at all. Popped the hood, went to recharge and I see the cap on the low pressure valve is missing. I go to replace the cap, and it also comes with a schrader valve from Advance Auto Parts. I go to empty in a tank of R134, and once I do, I remove the can from the fill port and all the R134 comes spraying back out (this is while the AC is on, the compressor would kick on, and off like it wasn't getting enough R134) which leads me to think the schrader valve is leaking. So, I go to replace it, take a look in there, and notice the current one is almost completely deformed. The special tool is not going to get it out. So, my next option is to replace the piece that it is in. Does anyone know if I can replace just the part I have boxed in blue, and what it would be called? It appears it just screws into the bigger piece, so I'm assuming it is a replaceable part.

935042_10200370989378147_12673175_n_zps46ba1f9c.gif
 

Goodinblack

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I had a 1996 Tahoe. I can't remember now exactly...... but even from the picture you posted........... it does not look like that piece is serviceable.

It may be be threaded in, but I don't think so. Does it look like a wrench could be placed on it? Usually line set themselves are not service able
 

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