AH64Medic
Supporting Member
Ever since I bought my NBS suburban the rear passenger doors have squeaked and popped hence the nickname "poppy doors" as my 5 y/o boy calls them. Although I'm not too concerned with what people think but I'll have to admit i hated to explain to people why my doors squeaked and popped. I tried doing what some people suggested like lubricating different spots on the door which helped but didn't fix the problem. I found a page online on how to fix them so I finally got around to it and I'm happy to say the doors open and close like they should with no more noises. I hope this helps some of you and please excuse my lack of photo editing skills. Enjoy.
Note: I'm still learning how to manage my pictures so the best I could do was to add the pictures first and you can go back and use them as a reference. I tried to add one picture as needed for each step but couldn't figure it out.
Parts Needed:
Door Check from donor (I'm sure the part is the same for any rear passenger door NBS GM- Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Escalade). I got mine for free at the junkyard but I found the part on O'Reillys website for $52 a piece.
Here's a link. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_04274_1371585_1333&pt=04274&ppt=C0356
Tools Needed:
7mm Socket (a shallow socket will work but you will probably need a short extension to get to the bolt under the door handle on the inner door panel)
10mm Socket
upload foto
The red boxes shows where you have to remove or disconnect something. The white boxes are the locations of the 7mm screws.
First thing you need to do is remove the door panels. There are two 7mm screws located under the door pull and at the bottom front edge of the door panel. See picture.
Next you'll have to remove the small panel that surrounds the door release handle. You can dig your fingernail under neath to pop it out or use a flathead screwdriver. Just be careful not to gouge the finish.
Remove the door lock piece once again by prying it out.
The door panel light and the power window switch will need to be disconnect from the inside once you remove the door panel.
With all that done pick up (slide) the door panel up (may need to need to pick up with a quick jerk) and out. Disconnect the door panel light bulb by grasping the base of the light (where the wiring connects) and twist and remove the light bulb. Just let it hang.
Then disconnect the plug for the power window switch. The tab is kinda hard to get to as it's on the side closet to the panel and not much room to get your finger back there to squeeze it and pull it out.
Set the door panel aside. Be careful where you set it. You don't want to set it on your concrete driveway leaning on your truck and get it knocked over by a 5 y/o riding his scooter and get some scuffs on it. Trust me I know.
You can see the 10mm bolt in the body and you have to remove the black rubber plug to see the two 10mm nuts inside the door.
After you remove the door panel pull out the small black plug on the factory door check to expose the two 10mm nuts. I used a deep 10mm socket to get to all three parts.
You'll have to remove part of that clear plastic sheeting to get inside the door to remove the old door check. I found it easier to pull the black rubber plug off the old door check arm so I can rotate it as I pulled it out.
Here's the old door check next to the replacement. You can easily see why the doors would squeak and pop. The replacement looks different but everything lines up.
Now to reinstall everything
Once again remove the black rubber plug off the new door check and install inside the door and the body. Hook up the door panel light, power window switch and reinstall the door panel. There are 5 L shaped pieces on the door panel that have to side inside the corresponding holes in the door. Line them up, push the panel tight against the door frame and slide down. Replace the two 7mm screws, the door lock switch piece and the door lock handle piece and you are done!
Open up a nice cold Coors Light and marvel at your new "Non-Poppy" passenger doors! Hope this helps someone.
Note: I'm still learning how to manage my pictures so the best I could do was to add the pictures first and you can go back and use them as a reference. I tried to add one picture as needed for each step but couldn't figure it out.
Parts Needed:
Door Check from donor (I'm sure the part is the same for any rear passenger door NBS GM- Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Escalade). I got mine for free at the junkyard but I found the part on O'Reillys website for $52 a piece.
Here's a link. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_04274_1371585_1333&pt=04274&ppt=C0356
Tools Needed:
7mm Socket (a shallow socket will work but you will probably need a short extension to get to the bolt under the door handle on the inner door panel)
10mm Socket
upload foto
The red boxes shows where you have to remove or disconnect something. The white boxes are the locations of the 7mm screws.
First thing you need to do is remove the door panels. There are two 7mm screws located under the door pull and at the bottom front edge of the door panel. See picture.
Next you'll have to remove the small panel that surrounds the door release handle. You can dig your fingernail under neath to pop it out or use a flathead screwdriver. Just be careful not to gouge the finish.
Remove the door lock piece once again by prying it out.
The door panel light and the power window switch will need to be disconnect from the inside once you remove the door panel.
With all that done pick up (slide) the door panel up (may need to need to pick up with a quick jerk) and out. Disconnect the door panel light bulb by grasping the base of the light (where the wiring connects) and twist and remove the light bulb. Just let it hang.
Then disconnect the plug for the power window switch. The tab is kinda hard to get to as it's on the side closet to the panel and not much room to get your finger back there to squeeze it and pull it out.
Set the door panel aside. Be careful where you set it. You don't want to set it on your concrete driveway leaning on your truck and get it knocked over by a 5 y/o riding his scooter and get some scuffs on it. Trust me I know.
You can see the 10mm bolt in the body and you have to remove the black rubber plug to see the two 10mm nuts inside the door.
After you remove the door panel pull out the small black plug on the factory door check to expose the two 10mm nuts. I used a deep 10mm socket to get to all three parts.
You'll have to remove part of that clear plastic sheeting to get inside the door to remove the old door check. I found it easier to pull the black rubber plug off the old door check arm so I can rotate it as I pulled it out.
Here's the old door check next to the replacement. You can easily see why the doors would squeak and pop. The replacement looks different but everything lines up.
Now to reinstall everything
Once again remove the black rubber plug off the new door check and install inside the door and the body. Hook up the door panel light, power window switch and reinstall the door panel. There are 5 L shaped pieces on the door panel that have to side inside the corresponding holes in the door. Line them up, push the panel tight against the door frame and slide down. Replace the two 7mm screws, the door lock switch piece and the door lock handle piece and you are done!
Open up a nice cold Coors Light and marvel at your new "Non-Poppy" passenger doors! Hope this helps someone.
