How much in labor to have AC system replaced?

[Kman]

I plan on buying the AC compressor, Orifice Tube, and the Accumulator. How much should I be looking to spend if I have a shop drain the system, flush it out, install the new parts, and refill with new fluid?

 

[SLCHOE]

I plan on buying the AC compressor, Orifice Tube, and the Accumulator. How much should I be looking to spend if I have a shop drain the system, flush it out, install the new parts, and refill with new fluid?

You would need to pay for the installation of each part plush the flush, plus the charge plus the freon itself.

I'd be looking at 3 hours labor so about $280 my shop price. Freon is extra. Comes with a 3 month 3K mile warranty on parts/labor but if you supply the parts, no warranty on either (most all shops will do the same with customer supplied parts).

You do need to flush the system though. Don't skimp on that or it will kill your new compressor and you will have to do this all over again.

 

[Kman]

You would need to pay for the installation of each part plush the flush, plus the charge plus the freon itself.

I'd be looking at 3 hours labor so about $280 my shop price. Freon is extra. Comes with a 3 month 3K mile warranty on parts/labor but if you supply the parts, no warranty on either (most all shops will do the same with customer supplied parts).

You do need to flush the system though. Don't skimp on that or it will kill your new compressor and you will have to do this all over again.

My system still works great (knock on wood). My Tahoe has 165k miles so I figure I should change the parts before it fails.

Since my compressor hasn't locked up yet could I get by with just changing the compressor or should all three parts be replaced?

 

[SLCHOE]

My system still works great (knock on wood). My Tahoe has 165k miles so I figure I should change the parts before it fails.

Since my compressor hasn't locked up yet could I get by with just changing the compressor or should all three parts be replaced?

It really doesn't cost much more to do all 3 and is the proper way to go.

 

[scoobyxj]

i just did this to mine. My clutch failed, and destroyed the mounting spot for the pulley, and what not. So basically no internal system damage. The compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube where right around $250 off Amazon. I used a Denso compressor which came with the proper amount of oil, an AC Delco accumulator, and orifice tube. The replacement compressor has a built in Hi PSI cut out switch on the back that you can just ignore, and make sure you get the correct accumulator for your AC system (rear air/non rear air). The truck/ non rear air has the hose attachment bolt vertical inline with the body of the canister, and the rear air unit is horizontal. It's not to hard of a job to do yourself to be honest. The hardest parts are going to be busting the fan clutch off the water pump, getting the front lower bolt loosened on the compressor mount, and then reinstalling that bolt. I actually took my grinder, and ground 2-3cm off the end of it so I could get everything to go back together. I waited till right before my freon work appt to actually swap out the accumulator because it has a desiccant in it to absorb moisture, and the less moisture it gets exposed to the longer it will work. Last but not least the AC tech at the shop recommended to me to replace the fan clutch as well. He said they get weak over time, and while the truck my not show signs of overheating it'll help eliminate wild HVAC temp swings considerably at low speeds/idleing with the AC on. Oh... BTW my truck has 245k on it, and as far as I know had the OEM compressor. Oh, again... I had $109 in the freon work including adding dye, but that could be different depending on where you live.

 

[Kman]

i just did this to mine. My clutch failed, and destroyed the mounting spot for the pulley, and what not. So basically no internal system damage. The compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube where right around $250 off Amazon. I used a Denso compressor which came with the proper amount of oil, an AC Delco accumulator, and orifice tube. The replacement compressor has a built in Hi PSI cut out switch on the back that you can just ignore, and make sure you get the correct accumulator for your AC system (rear air/non rear air). The truck/ non rear air has the hose attachment bolt vertical inline with the body of the canister, and the rear air unit is horizontal. It's not to hard of a job to do yourself to be honest. The hardest parts are going to be busting the fan clutch off the water pump, getting the front lower bolt loosened on the compressor mount, and then reinstalling that bolt. I actually took my grinder, and ground 2-3cm off the end of it so I could get everything to go back together. I waited till right before my freon work appt to actually swap out the accumulator because it has a desiccant in it to absorb moisture, and the less moisture it gets exposed to the longer it will work. Last but not least the AC tech at the shop recommended to me to replace the fan clutch as well. He said they get weak over time, and while the truck my not show signs of overheating it'll help eliminate wild HVAC temp swings considerably at low speeds/idleing with the AC on. Oh... BTW my truck has 245k on it, and as far as I know had the OEM compressor. Oh, again... I had $109 in the freon work including adding dye, but that could be different depending on where you live.

Thanks for the info. Did you take your truck somewhere to have them drain the system before you swapped out the parts?

 

[rob76]

May as well have it drained. That stuff is bad for the environment. Couldn't cost much to have it drained especially if you're going to take it back there to have it charged.