How many miles is too many for used?

[MN-cj]

If you can get all the records and see it was well taken care of, I would not worry and I would take that over a warranty. If someone was to dump a problem truck, in my opinion, it would probably be at a dealer.

My 2014 Suburban LT has 267k miles on it and it has been baby-ed since I got it with 24k miles on it. It needs a brake vacuum hose and an o-ring in the oil pan to go 80k to 100k more. I have all the mileage records, part numbers, and did the majority of the work on my dad's hoist so once I get time to get this done this summer, I can sell it to make a family in Minnesota happy....unless someone needs a project....

My 1998 2 door 4x4 Tahoe has been sitting at my dad's for the last few years but it is pushing over 300k miles.

If you take care of them and do the maintenance, they can really last.

 

[EddieC]

My '08 Tahoe started needing mechanical repairs in the high 80k's to 90k's and has been a demanding girl since.
I don't know if it's normal because we never kept vehicles this long before retiring.
Our previous Tahoe's AC quit at mid 40k's so it was traded back on the '08 during a fuel shortage crisis. Current situation brings back memories but back then it knocked about $10,000 off the order price. From what I read now it seems buyers want what they want so the fuel cost now may not help in negotiations, but this is off topic.

If I were to buy ANY used vehicle I think I'd shoot for 40k-50k mileage range and hope for some peace of mind before needing to replace parts.

 

[LGHT]

I got a great deal on a 19 with 65k miles. It was a company truck so interior still smells new and maintenance records are perfect. Out the door with repairs tax and license im just over 20k. The catch is it took a light hit to the drivers front. No air bags deployed, but it needed new bumper, fender, light and radiator. My shop had it done in a week. I know lots of guys will frown about buying a truck that was in an accident, but i have 15k in my pocket to put toward repairs if needed. Saving that much money over retail easily makes the puchase a no brainer for me....

 

[bigdog9191999]

i know i am kinda the odd ball, but all i have are highly used vehicles.

my current ride ( in rough shape now) 03 tahoe i got with 226k with much different plans. my avalanche rusted to an unsafe point and i turned the tahoe into a daily, that was 6 years ago, it now has 267k and still runs/drives basically the same. with only normal maintince items, brakes, water pump, radiator ect.

the most recent is her replacement 03 denali ( replaced and itendtical 03 denali that had 275k with much rust) being in michigan the new truck was from florida i was sold. it had 179k when we brought it home end of 24'

rust makes me more concerned than miles as long as it runs/drives out good.

of all the cars i have had there have only been a couple that have had less than 100k when i got them. every thing has over 100k now, most is at or over 200k

only thing under currently is the bikes, and i am up to 50k on it, but goldwing dont care.

 

[Marky Dissod]

i know i am kinda the odd ball, but all i have are highly used vehicles. ...
rust makes me more concerned than miles as long as it runs/drives out good.
of all the cars i have had there have only been a couple that have had less than 100k when i got them. every thing has over 100k now, most is at or over 200k

Hope I'm wrong ... I fear the GMT900s'll be the last GM vehicles with a strong tendency to last to 300,000 miles with responsible maintenance.
If you noticed that, you're no oddball.

 

[OR VietVet]

Hope I'm wrong ... I fear the GMT900s'll be the last GM vehicles with a strong tendency to last to 300,000 miles with responsible maintenance.
If you noticed that, you're no oddball.

GMT800's will beat that, as long as they are taken care of

 

[Marky Dissod]

My suspicion is that the GMT900s will outlast the GMT800s, but ONLY due to the GMT900s head start.
If they'd both been introduced simultaneously, the GMT800 would outlast the GMT900s, and age more gracefully too.

 

[GMCChevy]

My suspicion is that the GMT900s will outlast the GMT800s, but ONLY due to the GMT900s head start.
If they'd both been introduced simultaneously, the GMT800 would outlast the GMT900s, and age more gracefully too.

Head start?

GMT800 didn't have AFM, that right there
gives them the win.

 

[fozzi58]

The key to surviving the AFM disaster is frequent oil changes. Especially on the newer K2XX platfor cause the DI motors seem to burn more oil as DI's inherent nature. Thats evident on any MFG using DI now.

I've stood on my soap box about this a few times before but this push by MFGs for "lower cost of ownership" and 7500+ mile oil changes is a death knell for most motors. At 5k mile, the 5.3 and 6.2 are already 1qt+ low on oil. Waiting to 10k for an oil change, add in an off ramp at 65mph, and there's no oil in the pan for the pickup tube left to grab. That's pretty much the beginning of the end for AFM lifters.

Since I am "on the spectrum" with my truck, especially considering how I am basically using it like a Corvette, I have only let an oil change go to 4k miles once since I owned the truck. Most of the time I am changing the oil BEFORE 3k, especially if I am doing a few AutoX events in a month. Considering the abuse it has been through, I should have dropped a lifter a long time ago, but it still runs like I just got it from the dealership. So it really is about maintenance and keeping the oil level proper for longevity even with AFM etc.

 

[fozzi58]

I found one with 106k on the clock but it’s only had its TC replaced (at 86k), not the entire transmission

Thats OK but I would look to replace it with an aftermarket unit. If the OEM TC was replaced with another OEM TC, you aren;t avoiding the problem, you are just delaying it.

I had just heard that the latest models with the 10l80 is what was best to look at.

Yes but there is a major defect in the valve body. This goes for both the GM and Ford units. (10Lxx and 10Rxx)

Remember that if you need a transmission rebuilt, its usually about $5k per gear. While you may save some fuel with the 10 speed over the lift of the truck, a major rebuild of that trans is going to wipe out any of those fuel savings, and thensome if you need a replacement trans or a rebuilt unit.

I would stick to the 5.3 or 6.2 6speed from 2017 to 2020.

 

[the 18th letter]

The key to surviving the AFM disaster is frequent oil changes. Especially on the newer K2XX platfor cause the DI motors seem to burn more oil as DI's inherent nature. Thats evident on any MFG using DI now.

I've stood on my soap box about this a few times before but this push by MFGs for "lower cost of ownership" and 7500+ mile oil changes is a death knell for most motors. At 5k mile, the 5.3 and 6.2 are already 1qt+ low on oil. Waiting to 10k for an oil change, add in an off ramp at 65mph, and there's no oil in the pan for the pickup tube left to grab. That's pretty much the beginning of the end for AFM lifters.

Since I am "on the spectrum" with my truck, especially considering how I am basically using it like a Corvette, I have only let an oil change go to 4k miles once since I owned the truck. Most of the time I am changing the oil BEFORE 3k, especially if I am doing a few AutoX events in a month. Considering the abuse it has been through, I should have dropped a lifter a long time ago, but it still runs like I just got it from the dealership. So it really is about maintenance and keeping the oil level proper for longevity even with AFM etc.

Need some of current mileage for context. Are you saying you’ve beaten 300k in K2?

ETA - I’ve personally observed 2 900’s (Tahoe 5.3 and Eaky 6.2) that went over 200k with AFM in tact. Both are still running to my knowledge but the Tahoe lost the transmission at 265k

 

[bigdog9191999]

i have no desire to go past the 800 platform, although i believe in terms to engine life, if you take a 900 and delete the afm ( basically turning into an older engine mechanics then it has the potential to last as long as the old ones also). transmissions? that is another question.

body wise living in the salty north the 900 seams to rot quicker and easier than the 800.

but as mentioned good maintenance is a bigger factor than anything.

there are things we do in the country that are not done other places to appease epa. if we didnt do these things we could have a much different relationship with our vehicles. like the new engines having issues and the fix was to go to a heavier oil. the only reason they put the lighter oil was to reduce tiny amounts of friction to help meet the epa pushes, at the cost of longevity. and peoples lack of understanding things like oil weights compouds the issues, as they fall back on the "manufacutre knows best" wich in many ways is not the case, they are appeasing the three letter people that be. its like saying it has to be ac delco oil because it is the best of the best. do we really think that the auto manufacturers are refining and making their own oil?

when the question or what oil to run comes up my answer has become, whichever oil that is close to spec that floats your boat well enough that it will get changed regularly . people do not take in consideration to usage. they just go by miles that are in the book. and you cannot convince them otherwise that delivering newspapers on dirt roads should have a different schedule than someone driving on the highway 90% of the time. gotta be that book milage.