Help/Sugestions

[KJTahoe]

I am looking for ideas and advice on performance(no sh^t that why I'm posting in this section lol) anyways I have a Magnaflow muffler dual in single out and a k&n air filter and i removed the tube going from the air box to the fender and all that together me and my friends can really tell a difference! I just wanna know what else i can do on the cheaper side of performance. if i cant really get anything good for cheap im not going to buy crap just because its cheap and ill be happy with what i got.

things i dont want to even mess with is anything internally i know that would really help but im the 3rd owner, know the first two personally, that being said i have no leaks and the engine has never been cracked open, they both religiously replaced the oil every 3k miles with valvoline 5w-30 and never ran ethanol. all thats been replaced is the radiator, water pump, and flywheel.

i only paid 1800 for the whole truck so not really wanting to spend more on performance parts than what i paid for the actually truck lol

what im looking for advice on is chips/programmers, simple bolts on parts, cat delete yes or no? headers? forced air(is that a viable option)? injectors? simple DIY mods? how much can my very well taken care of 225k 350 vortec handle/put out?

thanks in advance for the help!
-Frankie

---------- Post added at 08:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:03 PM ----------

heres my exhaust

heres what the posi rear end will do and fairly easy!

 

[YukonXLPerk]

Nothing is cheap while adding performance.

The cheapest thing to do is to lose weight. Like the spare tire behind your axle.

Are you looking to get the thing to blow the tires off, or just be quick off the line?

Simple mods like changing to an electric fan will free up some HP for you. You can also change all of the bell housings for your belts....but might risk messing up the harmonic balance, which will kill your engine over a long period of time.

You already have a magnaflow system. Try pairing that with headers.


You mentioned "forced induction" and "not wanting to spend more than I paid for it" in the same breath. This thought should leave your brain right now. In my opinion it would not be worth the cost.

Tons of options available for the computer system. We have a guy on this forum that has had nothing but rave reviews on the stuff he deals with. Think its BLACKBEAR......

Please spend a little more time and let us know what you are looking for, plenty of people that will be willing to give you some sound advice, and even lend you a hand.

BTW, welcome

 

[SwampHound]

I would say aftermarket intakes are a good place to start. Granted you have already taken steps to improve air flow, but a full 4 inch intake will bring it up even more. Will add a bit of HP and torque, big increase in throttle response, and maybe 1 or 2 MPG.
For headers, long tubes would be your best bet for performance, but you would end up dropping a fortune on them.
For cheap or free mods, look into removing the lip on the throttle body, it will allow more air flow and increase accelerations.

That is just a quick and dirty, give you some stuff to think about, I'm sure plenty of others will chime in.

 

[KJTahoe]

sorry a couple other things i have questions about after ive been searching the web

underdrive pulleys?

and i found this chip
http://www.gfchips.com/chevrolettahoe.aspx
what do yall think?

---------- Post added at 08:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 PM ----------

Nothing is cheap while adding performance.

The cheapest thing to do is to lose weight. Like the spare tire behind your axle.

Are you looking to get the thing to blow the tires off, or just be quick off the line?

Simple mods like changing to an electric fan will free up some HP for you. You can also change all of the bell housings for your belts....but might risk messing up the harmonic balance, which will kill your engine over a long period of time.

You already have a magnaflow system. Try pairing that with headers.


You mentioned "forced induction" and "not wanting to spend more than I paid for it" in the same breath. This thought should leave your brain right now. In my opinion it would not be worth the cost.

Tons of options available for the computer system. We have a guy on this forum that has had nothing but rave reviews on the stuff he deals with. Think its BLACKBEAR......

Please spend a little more time and let us know what you are looking for, plenty of people that will be willing to give you some sound advice, and even lend you a hand.

BTW, welcome

just quick off the line ive raced a couple gts and havent had any problems with anything before 2004 itd be nice to mess with 05 and up and at least not get left scratch the forced anything lol ill look at the blackbear stuff

I would say aftermarket intakes are a good place to start. Granted you have already taken steps to improve air flow, but a full 4 inch intake will bring it up even more. Will add a bit of HP and torque, big increase in throttle response, and maybe 1 or 2 MPG.
For headers, long tubes would be your best bet for performance, but you would end up dropping a fortune on them.
For cheap or free mods, look into removing the lip on the throttle body, it will allow more air flow and increase accelerations.

That is just a quick and dirty, give you some stuff to think about, I'm sure plenty of others will chime in.

a full k&n will help but does it need to be k&n brand or are there more options

Lip on throttle body?

and yall both mentioned headers i have a brand new set of ramhorns i bought for my crawler but ended up not using think itd be worth the trouble to put these on?

---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------

I like the electric fan idea I think that'll help a good bit any suggestions on which one to get? And I just read something about RTV silicone to make dummy o2 sensors. I wanna run cat deletes but I like not seeing a check engine light. Will the silicone prevent the CIL from coning on?

 

[SunlitComet]

First, you do not "chip" a Vortec engine. You reprogram or tune the PCM. Such a company that does it is Blackbear Performance. They can usually get you about 20 more HP than stock and can account for mods to the engine as well.

Second, do not buy the GF POS. It is a scam. It is just a resistor in that box that alters the real signal and provides the computer with a fake one. That will just screw shit up. There are also not a lot aversions in part numbers for different years either, even though it says there are. It all ends up being the same POS box and part.

Third, Be careful on how you modify your throttle body. Doing it wrong can cause emissions monitor issues.

Forth, Keep your cats in and replace if needed and make sure your O2 sensors are in good working order. No rtv or extenders or crap like that.

Fifth, you can go different routes for cooling fans. You can do the Lincoln Mark 8 cooling fan in the existing fan shroud on the low cost side (discussed in a sticky post in the tech section) or you can use Flex-a-lite #280 dual fan kit like I have for for about $600. http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/280/10002/-1

Sixth, there are other options for air intakes. Personally, I recommend the K&n series 57 kit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdaUGFXL29Y


Seventh, ss for the exhaust try a flowmaster or other cat back system. You can put hi-flow cats from Magnaflow on if yours are bad. For headers you have a choice of shorties, Mid-lengths, which is sort of what I have but they are 100% legal while retaining all hookups( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dte-301y-fed-c WIll have to really search for them tho.) Or long tubes which require modifications that would interfere with emissions equipment.

I have lots of mods that exceed the purchase price of the vehicle and will spend a lot more myself. Get used to it. As for as how much power I put out, I have yet to dyno it.

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

dont waste money on intakes unless its a larger intake manifold or throttle body
k&n and all those expensive intakes dont improve anything untill the PCM is reflashed
go with long tube headers 80 mm throttle body or higher
long tube headers and the y pipe attach that to a flowmaster or somethin
if you go with the long tube headers you can throw a cheap after market cold air intake because your going to have to have PCM reflashed with a performance tune

 

[SunlitComet]

dont waste money on intakes unless its a larger intake manifold or throttle body
k&n and all those expensive intakes dont improve anything untill the PCM is reflashed
go with long tube headers 80 mm throttle body or higher
long tube headers and the y pipe attach that to a flowmaster or somethin
if you go with the long tube headers you can throw a cheap after market cold air intake because your going to have to have PCM reflashed with a performance tune

Those intakes do make a difference and don't require a tune. There are dyno sheets from the makers to prove it. And why would you get an 80mm TB when you would need an adapter to knock the size back down to the smaller intake plenum? While I did get a kick out of the 78mm bodies out there it really screwed up other issues like gas mileage and completions of readiness monitors. I will just end up moding the stock one to get rid of the lip, but that is it till it is monitored with diagnostics to ensure it is doing its job. And unless you are constantly on the throttle at 4000+ RPM I would not even bother with long tubes. They are good for high RPM power, but shorties are good for low end torque and hp gains and mid-lengths are great for idle to 4500 driving with an increase over that whole range which is great for a DD or towing SUV.Tri-y's are the best at that and that is why I waited so long so I can get some.

 

[KJTahoe]

I found this. Gonna get this one save me $100 over the k&n

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9903/overview/year/1997/make/chevrolet/model/tahoe

 

[SunlitComet]

I found this. Gonna get this one save me $100 over the k&n

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9903/overview/year/1997/make/chevrolet/model/tahoe

Dump it, it uses a polished aluminum tube which is horrible for thermal isolation and I see no dyno to prove its worth. Beside the K&N does not require you to do the extra wiring work.

 

[KJTahoe]

Dump it, it uses a polished aluminum tube which is horrible for thermal isolation and I see no dyno to prove its worth. Beside the K&N does not require you to do the extra wiring work.

Fine I'll quit trying to be a cheap bastard lol

 

[SwampHound]

Fine I'll quit trying to be a cheap bastard lol

Being the cheap bastard works great, until you end up re doing something multiple times . Much better to just buy the good stuff once and don't worry about it again.

 

[Gzes]

Look for used goodies if a wanna be a cheap bastard. Payed like $50 for my long tubes but have yet to install them

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

okay key phrase "dyno sheets from the manufacturers of the intake" if you believe those i gotta bridge to sell you
because ive seen the dyno done with a factory intake and K&N we pulled off the shelf at the napa store when i went to UTI and guess what the HP was lower then it was with the factory intake. why? the aftermarket intake leans out the mixture alot wich the pcm will adjust to point after a drive cycle is completed so your no longer losing any HP but your not gaining any the tune will adjust your mixture to take advantage of that intake
its funny because there were a few guys in class even when they were shown the numbers on the dyno they still argued there point i think they even drove rice rockets to check out mightycarmods on youtube

 

['99_Tahoe LS 4WD - AZ]

First, you do not "chip" a Vortec engine. You reprogram or tune the PCM. Such a company that does it is Blackbear Performance. They can usually get you about 20 more HP than stock and can account for mods to the engine as well.

Second, do not buy the GF POS. It is a scam. It is just a resistor in that box that alters the real signal and provides the computer with a fake one. That will just screw shit up. There are also not a lot aversions in part numbers for different years either, even though it says there are. It all ends up being the same POS box and part.

Third, Be careful on how you modify your throttle body. Doing it wrong can cause emissions monitor issues.

Forth, Keep your cats in and replace if needed and make sure your O2 sensors are in good working order. No rtv or extenders or crap like that.

Fifth, you can go different routes for cooling fans. You can do the Lincoln Mark 8 cooling fan in the existing fan shroud on the low cost side (discussed in a sticky post in the tech section) or you can use Flex-a-lite #280 dual fan kit like I have for for about $600. http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/280/10002/-1

Sixth, there are other options for air intakes. Personally, I recommend the K&n series 57 kit.

Seventh, ss for the exhaust try a flowmaster or other cat back system. You can put hi-flow cats from Magnaflow on if yours are bad. For headers you have a choice of shorties, Mid-lengths, which is sort of what I have but they are 100% legal while retaining all hookups( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dte-301y-fed-c WIll have to really search for them tho.) Or long tubes which require modifications that would interfere with emissions equipment.

I have lots of mods that exceed the purchase price of the vehicle and will spend a lot more myself. Get used to it. As for as how much power I put out, I have yet to dyno it.

Well stated @SunlitComet ! I made the mistake of adding up how much money I have dropped into my Tahoe since I bought it off of Ebay in 2013. I've had it over five years now and I'm well into approaching mid-five figures. It averages to about six grand a year, which sure as heck beats a monthly 500 buck car payment and the insurance and registration fees that go with it...plus the repairs that occur. This truck is very easy to work on and since there are like over a millions variants of my Tahoe, parts and cheap(ish) and easy to find.

 

[haks310]

FYI, just seen this today:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-lis...=all&coliid=I2JIOZHEH8L02A&colid=R7S7CPOTT9BY

Amazon Warehouse has a Flex-a-lite 280 for $372 because the box is messed up.