Overland Disco
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2022
- Posts
- 15
- Reaction score
- 38
Hello everyone, after spending some quality time reading a bunch of threads here, I wanted to introduce myself and my "projects".
First, I'm impressed with the level of support and friendliness I've seen here – it feels a bit rare these days with the jackassery knob seemingly broken at 11.M
My entry into the LS world was through an LS swap into my 98 Land Rover Discovery - commonly called Disco - with an L94/6L80 unit out of a 2011 Yukon Denali with 93K miles. I think the previous owners used synthetic oil, as the valve covers were super clean, as was the rest of the engine. I tore it down to the short block, did the AFM delete with a slight cam from Comp Cams, trunnion bearing upgrade, smoothed the oil pump and oil filter/cooler passageways, LS3 intake to clear the hood, and had the 6L80 built to remove the known weaknesses, upgraded the torque converter to a 6L90 spec, etc. etc.
I've built the rest of the Disco as an extended backcountry travel vehicle to tow an offroad trailer – way before the "overlanding" crowd came into being. After 230K miles on the original LR 4.0 aluminum engine, it was time for an upgrade, and the LS platform has everything I was looking for. I have been all over the southwest with this trailer.
Here's what it used to look like -
And with camp set up -
This is what the L94 engine looks like now -
My wife and I had been talking about replacing our aging Dodge diesel truck, and she suggested that something with an LS engine would make sense, as I know them a bit after this.
On our 27th anniversary, we were out looking – just "looking" – at a couple of Tahoes and Yukons in the area, and came across this -
A 2011 Yukon Denali with almost 137K miles. Not by design, but just happens to be the exact same as the LS swap powertrain.
For now, I'll do all the usual maintenance - fluid changes, a couple of door seals, and adjust the rear power gate that needs a slight adjustment to stop touching the bumper cover when it opens. Then I'll tune a few things through HP Tuners like the fan mapping to get 100% flow through them before 245F and drive it to see what it wants/needs.
I appreciate the tech answers/articles that I've read - I'm a recovering engineer and love getting into the details of how things work and why.
Anyway, that's me and my rigs!
First, I'm impressed with the level of support and friendliness I've seen here – it feels a bit rare these days with the jackassery knob seemingly broken at 11.M
My entry into the LS world was through an LS swap into my 98 Land Rover Discovery - commonly called Disco - with an L94/6L80 unit out of a 2011 Yukon Denali with 93K miles. I think the previous owners used synthetic oil, as the valve covers were super clean, as was the rest of the engine. I tore it down to the short block, did the AFM delete with a slight cam from Comp Cams, trunnion bearing upgrade, smoothed the oil pump and oil filter/cooler passageways, LS3 intake to clear the hood, and had the 6L80 built to remove the known weaknesses, upgraded the torque converter to a 6L90 spec, etc. etc.
I've built the rest of the Disco as an extended backcountry travel vehicle to tow an offroad trailer – way before the "overlanding" crowd came into being. After 230K miles on the original LR 4.0 aluminum engine, it was time for an upgrade, and the LS platform has everything I was looking for. I have been all over the southwest with this trailer.
Here's what it used to look like -
And with camp set up -
This is what the L94 engine looks like now -
My wife and I had been talking about replacing our aging Dodge diesel truck, and she suggested that something with an LS engine would make sense, as I know them a bit after this.
On our 27th anniversary, we were out looking – just "looking" – at a couple of Tahoes and Yukons in the area, and came across this -
A 2011 Yukon Denali with almost 137K miles. Not by design, but just happens to be the exact same as the LS swap powertrain.
For now, I'll do all the usual maintenance - fluid changes, a couple of door seals, and adjust the rear power gate that needs a slight adjustment to stop touching the bumper cover when it opens. Then I'll tune a few things through HP Tuners like the fan mapping to get 100% flow through them before 245F and drive it to see what it wants/needs.
I appreciate the tech answers/articles that I've read - I'm a recovering engineer and love getting into the details of how things work and why.
Anyway, that's me and my rigs!