My 2004 LT tahoe, 4wd, 130,000 miles when hitting a large bump at 60 mph, the front wheels bounce like I don't have any shocks at all. I replaced all the shocks and it still does it, bad for like 3 or 4 seconds and feels like you might loose control. Since it has torsions bars instead of springs, is the only solution is to crank up the torsion bars? I have read pros and cons about doing this but what could I change to correct this? Thanks for any help.
Front Wheels Bouncing When hitting Large bump
- Thread starter Surge
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How long have you had the Tahoe, and has anything else been done to the suspension? When you replaced the shocks, was that because of this issue or did the problem start after that?
Confirm that your front jounce stops (sometimes incorrectly called bounce stops) are touching the lower control arms at ride height.
Other than the shocks has anything in the rear suspension changed? Did it originally have RPO codes G65 and ZW7 (Premium Smooth Ride)?
Confirm that your front jounce stops (sometimes incorrectly called bounce stops) are touching the lower control arms at ride height.
Other than the shocks has anything in the rear suspension changed? Did it originally have RPO codes G65 and ZW7 (Premium Smooth Ride)?
Welcome to the forum from Oregon.
When you did the shocks, did you get an alignment and the front and rear suspension inspected? Those jounce stops, like @Fless talked about, sould like a culprit.
When you did the shocks, did you get an alignment and the front and rear suspension inspected? Those jounce stops, like @Fless talked about, sould like a culprit.
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Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
Coveman
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What size tires and rims? Have you tried rotating the tires?
Is the bounce all the time or just on acceleration?
houstontaylor
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When I replaced shocks on my 2003 Chevy Tahoe with original equipment shocks from the dealer a couple of years ago maybe, at least one went bad again very quickly, judging by fluid running down the side of it from the upper part. I'm guessing that I got some shocks that had been sitting on the shelf for 20 years and the seals were bad. Your symptoms sound like the shocks might still be bad.? At least that's something to consider.
The OP's a 1-and-done for now. Hasn't come back to view the responses (unless he did as a guest).
Thanks for all the advice from everyone. I didn't respond sooner because I thought this site would email me when I had some feedback. But, here is the deal: I bought the Tahoe new in '04, it is garage keep with 133,000 miles and I want it to last until I'm dead so I'm willing to replace anything to keep it in good shape. I have never done any modifications, pure stock, only thing major I have done is replace the front, left wheel bearing about 6 years ago and replaced the rear main seal about 3 years ago. I bought some shocks online that were suppose to be made for the Tahoe but they did not keep the front tires from bouncing. I tried to order OEM replacement shocks from several GM dealers that were suppose to be OEM replacements but they said they couldn't sell them to me because they could not ship them. I finally ordered the same OEM replacements from Chevy Parts Pros with my VIN number that I was trying to order from the GM dealers, and they came back the next day and said those shocks were not the OEM replacement shocks that would fit my Tahoe and cancelled my order. All I want to do is find a set of OEM replacement shocks that are made for the Tahoe. Specs: 2004 Tahoe, 4wd, LT, Z71, 4:11 running gears, 5.3 Flex fuel. I have kept the oil changed every 3,000 miles, changed the tires again 3 months ago to the same size as the originals, P265/70R17 Goodyear Wranglers. I had a set of these on here before these and it ran great. I think the only thing I need is a set of OEM shocks. Does anyone know what OEM part number I need to order that is made for my Tahoe?
VIN: 1GNEK13Z64R141941 Thanks for any help you can offer.
Just found out from the Chevy Parts Pro guy that my shocks are: FRT: 15770188 and Rear: 15770188. Of course they are discontinued and no body has any stock so Now I have to find a shock that is best fit for these shocks. Only thing is, I don't want to put on heavy off road shocks because I don't take it off road, I just want the best hwy ride I can get.
strutaeng
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I have actually seen vehicles with what you describe: tire bouncing all over the place. I had never wondered if the drivers knew this (I know there's those types of drivers that simply don't care and will drive until the wheels literally fall off, so there's that...SMH).
I think it's been mostly cars doing this, and just figured it was a tire thing or a strut, but I really don't know?
You shouldn't need to crank torsion bars. That will raise the front more, make the vehicle rider harsher and will need an alignment. Focus on why it's doing that. I will second what @Coveman suggested regarding tire rotation, then see if the problems follows the tire. Literally costs nothing, and you likely need a tire rotation anyways.
I think it's been mostly cars doing this, and just figured it was a tire thing or a strut, but I really don't know?
You shouldn't need to crank torsion bars. That will raise the front more, make the vehicle rider harsher and will need an alignment. Focus on why it's doing that. I will second what @Coveman suggested regarding tire rotation, then see if the problems follows the tire. Literally costs nothing, and you likely need a tire rotation anyways.
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2016Dom
Member
Just try a regular shocks that fit from AutoZone, Napa, O'Reilly. They usually have ones that will work.
Last time I bought shocks, they had options from good ($$) to better ($$$).
Last time I bought shocks, they had options from good ($$) to better ($$$).
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
I second the above statement. At that age, any shocks will do. Your ball joins and control arm bushings are probably dry rotted and shot at this point as well. Maybe not, but I wouldn’t doubt it.
If you’re feeling the vehicle slam in the steering wheel or in the floorboard when you go over a bump, it’s more than likely the Steering Column Bearing. These are notorious for going out and shops will throw all the parts at them, only for the sound/feeling not to get repaired. This is the repair that felt like my shocks and ball joints were bad. Sounds bizarre I know, but it’s quite common.
With that being said, your shocks and the aforementioned items I listed may still need replacing as well.
If you’re feeling the vehicle slam in the steering wheel or in the floorboard when you go over a bump, it’s more than likely the Steering Column Bearing. These are notorious for going out and shops will throw all the parts at them, only for the sound/feeling not to get repaired. This is the repair that felt like my shocks and ball joints were bad. Sounds bizarre I know, but it’s quite common.
With that being said, your shocks and the aforementioned items I listed may still need replacing as well.
Jimmyspirits
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I would just go inside your glove box and find the RPO codes and determine which suspension your vehicle came with. Then proceed to go to rock auto.com and look at what’s offered for front shocks and usually in their little descriptions under the shocks, it will tell you which ones are applicable to your specific RPO code. Applies to both front and rear and they have a lot of options with regards to daily driver or economy, etc.. my 2001 was doing the same thing with the front right tire and I replaced the shocks and it’s much improved now.
I've been happy with the KYB shocks that I put on the front of mine, although mine has the Premium Smooth Ride (RPO G65 and ZW7). Go to the KYB site and they'll have fitment info for yours.
www.kyb.com
Also make sure that the front jounce stops are there, and are contacting the lower control arm at ride height.
Find the right, shock, strut or strut assembly for your vehicle.
Find the right shock, strut, or assembly. Select your year, make and model, or search by V.I.N., License Plate or by KYB Part Number.
www.kyb.com
Also make sure that the front jounce stops are there, and are contacting the lower control arm at ride height.
KYB FTW. I have them on my Tahoe.
Meathead16
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My last vehicle had this issue really bad. Hit a bump of a certain severity and it felt like the car would completely disconnect from the road and I had no control for a second or two. What finally fixed it was new lower control arms. I did the whole arm so not sure if it was from a worn ball joint or worn bushings. Most likely a culmination of all 3.
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
Bilstein 4600 if you like a comfy ride. Bilstein 5100 if you prefer less wheel movement.
A soft spring would be (I.E.) 350lb / in, as in, a 350lb force will cause the spring to distort its shape by one inch.
A stiffer spring (500lb) would move less if the same 350lb force were applied.
In other words my solution for you would not be to crank the bars, it'd be stiffer bars.
Don't know the spring rates of front torsion bars, but rates are typically expressed in lb per inch here.
A soft spring would be (I.E.) 350lb / in, as in, a 350lb force will cause the spring to distort its shape by one inch.
A stiffer spring (500lb) would move less if the same 350lb force were applied.
In other words my solution for you would not be to crank the bars, it'd be stiffer bars.
