Front Axle End Seals

[2000tahoeZ71]

Well, noticed a drip on my driveway today, got underneath and the drivers side front chunk seal is leaking on my 184k 2000 z71. Passenger side looks like it is probably seeping too. How big of a job is this? I see myself as an above average wrencher but have never fooled with differentials on my own. Have watched a few videos (only on NBS trucks)and it seems like a pain in the ass, but definitely doable with my skills. I will likely not have a lift, but will have power tools. It looks essentially like i get the cv shaft out, and then out pops the short shaft after getting past the C clip. Pop out the seal, replace, reinsert short shaft, reassemble. From what I have watched on NBS truck on the passenger side is a little more involved. Any advice or words of wisdom?

 

[BirchyBoy]

Good luck. Had mine done 11k ago and they're leaking again. Shop is cixing them under warrantee, but they think there may be something else wrong. I really, really hope not.

 

[2000tahoeZ71]

What research I've done, I have seen it's important to make sure the shafts surface does not have any imperfections in it that could cause a leak. Other than that, a common problem is the use of RTV on mating surfaces that need anaerobic sealant instead. I can't (and don't want to) afford to pay anyone to do this unless it's essential. I also notice my pinion seal is wet. I just had new pinion bearings and seal put in maybe three years ago. If I am correct, the seal is pretty easy to replace on the rear pinion? Just drop driveshaft, mark yoke, remove nut and yoke, pull seal, replace, and reassemble?

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

dont forget about the crush sleeve to preload the bearing
you have torque the pinion nut to like 3 to 400 lbs to crush that sleeve and if you over torque it you gotta start over with a new crush sleeve

 

[2000tahoeZ71]

Once it's been torqued, all you have to do is mark it to put it back into location from what I've seen. I know all about the torque specs. I had to tell the dealership that replaced my pinion bearings how to do it. They couldn't get it to seat, and wanted me to buy a new rear end. They were using a 1/2 in standard ratchet trying to get the sleeve to crush.

 

[bulletpruf]

Once it's been torqued, all you have to do is mark it to put it back into location from what I've seen. I know all about the torque specs. I had to tell the dealership that replaced my pinion bearings how to do it. They couldn't get it to seat, and wanted me to buy a new rear end. They were using a 1/2 in standard ratchet trying to get the sleeve to crush.

Replacing the seals isn't terribly difficult. If you have average skills you should be fine. Will just take some time.

On the pinion, here's another method - use a torque wrench (probably a smaller inch/pounds one) and put in on the pinion nut. Note how much torque it takes to turn it with the wheels off the ground. After replacing pinion seal, tighten nut until you get the same resistance when turning the pinion nut.

Scott