Factory Amplifier RMS??

[Brad12887]

Hi guys, I'm new here. I searched the forum and can't find an answer to this. I'm buying a new subwoofer as my factory one is blown in my 2001 Tahoe. I'm working with Crutchfield and they told me they're not sure how much power my factory radio is putting out.

They suggested I call a dealership. I did, the dealer couldn't help me either but was able to give me the factory amp part number which is 15762536. I've tried searching that amp online and I see plenty of them for sale, but can't find one that tells me what the RMS is.

The replacement woofers I'm looking at all say 250 watts RMS or 300 watts RMS and I don't want to get something that takes more power than what my factory amp can provide. Any way to know what power this amp is putting out?

I'm not looking to upgrade to a fancy sound system. I just want to replace my blown factory speakers with something basic, close to factory. I've already got those speakers selected, just trying to settle on one for the subwoofer.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I cannot tell you for sure what the subwoofer wattage output is for your stock amplifier, but I'm pretty sure that it is not 250 watts RMS or higher.

I did read in one forum post (not in this Forum) that the total system amplifier output for your generation of Escalade is 250 watts (as per Edmunds), but I have no way of verifying this. If it is in fact 250 watts, I would guess that at least 100 watts is dedicated to all the other non-subwoofer speakers, leaving only 150 watts at best for the subwoofer.

 

[Doubeleive]

Hi guys, I'm new here. I searched the forum and can't find an answer to this. I'm buying a new subwoofer as my factory one is blown in my 2001 Tahoe. I'm working with Crutchfield and they told me they're not sure how much power my factory radio is putting out.

They suggested I call a dealership. I did, the dealer couldn't help me either but was able to give me the factory amp part number which is 15762536. I've tried searching that amp online and I see plenty of them for sale, but can't find one that tells me what the RMS is.

The replacement woofers I'm looking at all say 250 watts RMS or 300 watts RMS and I don't want to get something that takes more power than what my factory amp can provide. Any way to know what power this amp is putting out?

I'm not looking to upgrade to a fancy sound system. I just want to replace my blown factory speakers with something basic, close to factory. I've already got those speakers selected, just trying to settle on one for the subwoofer.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

just get whatever fits and is affordable, it's always better to have a speaker that can handle more power than what is thrown at it.
the output of the oem amp is most likely 100w or less, most likely much less.
the trickery here with oem amps and/or bose is the OHM's, they tend to use lower ohm speakers than industry standard. which is why when people replace the door speakers with off the shelf brands for instance they tend to sound like crap with the oem radio/amp

 

[SilverSport]

yes...the RMS is how much your speakers should be able to handle, not how much those speakers require...good luck with your choice

Bill

 

[adriver]

I can't tell you, but I can tell you how to figure it out.

Ohm's law. You would measure AC voltage and square it, times resistance, for that channel. You would also need to know what the resistance was on your sub. Is the coil blown or is there some other problem? If you can measure the resistance of the coil on the sub, that is your Ohms/resistance.

This video will explain the idea, but in reverse, measured right off the speaker wire at max volume.

My guess is 50w or less on the sub, and about 25w or less on the door speakers. (That's what it is on the bose amp, and I'll bet that's more than yours). I was thinking your doors were 17w, and the sub is probably around 35w.


Honestly, I would never spend money replacing the factory speakers to do just what they did. These speakers were what they used 20 years ago, because they were some of the cheapest speakers the accounting department would allow. Price point on adding power to speakers, is relatively a lot cheaper now, then it was 20 years ago.

If you can swing a few hundred, you'd be much better off getting a new head unit, and better speakers. You can find head units that will do 50w RMS x 4, even 100w RMS x 4 (taramps head unit). You can find 4x100rms amps for $100-$150. You have all sorts of speaker options at 100w, that are cheap now, and maybe something nicer at that wattage later.

If you don't replace the head unit, You can get a Line Output Converter for a cheap as $20. A LOC will take the signal from the speaker wire, and allow you to connect an amp. A 500w amp is $100, $40 for the wiring, and you can get a sub that will really help with the sound quality.

I won't push too hard, unless you want to. If not, and you're solid with where you're at, look for a sub that is as low wattage as you can find RMS. You will be shorting what it can do, but it will (barely) do something.