Engine warranty?

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Naplescaptain

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My Boss is closing a Llc company that I was employed at and has offered me a 2018 gmc Denali xl with 39800 miles on it for $45,000.

This was a truck that I personally drove quite a bit and just 3 weeks ago had to get all the lifters and cam shaft replaced due to failure??. I think the $45 isn't that bad a price but the fact that a cam shaft failed so early has me scared. The factory warranty runs out at 60k miles.

My question is if there is a decent priced engine/drivetrain warranty out there, or should I stay away from the deal because I could be buying a lemon. Thanks in advance for any input guys, I'm brand new here but I figured if I do buy it,,that this site would be a great help!!
 

Tahoe14

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Welcome, I am assuming a GM Dealer did the repair since it is still under warranty so I wouldn't be that concerned about the reliability of the repair. Seems like a decent price with pricing on used vehicles right now. If you really like the vehicle then I would just buy an extended warranty for piece of mind, GMEPP is the only one that I recommend and you can buy it directly from any GM Dealer. I would suggest you price shop since you can do make a purchase over the phone. If you decide to buy one there is a Dealer list on this forum that offers really good pricing, would just have to do a search. Do not buy the warranty in Florida as the pricing is set by the Attorney Generals Office and there are no deals to be found. I would recommend a warranty anyways because of all the electronics that are very expensive, headlights and taillights that are $1000.00 for each unit just as an example. Good luck and I hope it works out for you as they are really nice vehicles.
 

swathdiver

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Grab it! Keep up with the maintenance, severe service schedule, and you should be good. Get the engine tuned to disable AFM. "Flip the pill" on the side of the transmission is the first thing I'd do if yours were mine.

I'll second GMPP and mention that my daughter's APEX warranty just put a remanufactured transmission and torque converter in her truck.

I prefer to self insure and not worry about warranties or the process of getting repairs done.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please, if you decide to purchase it.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
 

shock

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I went the route of GMEPP on my last two trucks. I shopped around on pricing. I bought the most recent from Knapp. Their site will give you a quote. I bought the previous one from James Black Cadillac. Smooth purchase experience in both cases. My local Chevy dealer prefers Allstate service contract, but I have no direct experience.
 
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Naplescaptain

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Wow great information, thank you so much guys!. I forgot to mention that the dealer who did the engine work told me that it needs a New drivers seat bottom cushion cover, a new set of rear shocks and new front stabilizer link ends and that would cost at least $1,800 and my boss knows this and figured he would just trade it in and they would take that off the price so I didn't feel like he was offering me a (Great) deal and I may counter Offer with $40,000 and see what he comes back with. I guess I'm just scared of making a mistake and taking a bad deal on a high maintenance vehicle?.
 

wjburken

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Wow great information, thank you so much guys!. I forgot to mention that the dealer who did the engine work told me that it needs a New drivers seat bottom cushion cover, a new set of rear shocks and new front stabilizer link ends and that would cost at least $1,800 and my boss knows this and figured he would just trade it in and they would take that off the price so I didn't feel like he was offering me a (Great) deal and I may counter Offer with $40,000 and see what he comes back with. I guess I'm just scared of making a mistake and taking a bad deal on a high maintenance vehicle?.
Rear shocks and compressor will run you around $600 and 1 to 1-1/2 hours of your time. That’s with Arnott shocks and Arnott or Dorman compressor.

Front sway bar links are $50 and 1/2 to 1 hour of your time.
 

Philpug

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I just had the motor replaced (under warranty) on my 18 5.3 and they included the powertrain warranty out to 100K.

Rear shocks and compressor will run you around $600 and 1 to 1-1/2 hours of your time. That’s with Arnott shocks and Arnott or Dorman compressor.

Front sway bar links are $50 and 1/2 to 1 hour of your time.
Not everyone has the mechanical skills or the tools/facilites to do this type of work.
 
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Naplescaptain

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Well I bit the bullet and bought the Denali for $43k. I have 20k miles left of the drivetrain warranty so I will start shopping for a aftermarket one soon. What brand shocks should I look into to replace the faulty factory ones I have and are there any other items I should address? I've been told to (pill) the transmission and to get the device that stops it from going to 4 cylinders ?
 

CMoore711

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You got a very good deal @Naplescaptain! There are no used '18 Denali XL's with <40K miles out there for mid $50K range, unless they're lacking a few options (no power retractable steps, 20" wheels and not 22" are the major ones) and they're only 2WD.

Does your Denali XL have 4WD?
Power retractable side steps?
Does it have factory 22" wheels or 20"?

Even if yours is 2WD with standard side steps and 20" wheels you got a great deal given the model year and mileage.

Just as @swathdiver stated follow the severe maintenance schedule. Especially on things like transmission, transfer case, and diffs.

For your 2018 GMC Yukon XL Denali following the severe maintenance schedule at 45K miles it's time for
- Replace interior cabin air filter
$25 filter and about 15 mins in your driveway with simple hand tools. Plenty of DIY how to youtube videos.
-Replace engine air filter
-$40-$90 filter and again about 15 mins in your driveway with simple hand tools. Plenty of DIY how to youtube videos.
- Transmission Fluid flush and change.
- 4WD Transfer case fluid flush and change.

If your '18 XL Denali does have the power retractable side steps be sure to keep the mounting points and hinges lubricated. I use a clear silicone spray lubricant that seems to work well.

I wouldn't sweat the lifter thing too much. Plenty of members on here have had to have them replaced and if the work was done at the dealer then all OEM parts were used and it was put back to OEM specifications. I had a lifter go bad in my 2015 Yukon XL Denali at about 78K miles, it was all covered under warranty, and I'm now at 130K and haven't missed a beat.

It is worth noting that I have had a Range AFM disabling module installed on my XL Denali since about 40K miles and I still had a lifter fail at 78K miles. So disabling the AFM electronically via a tune or "Range" type module is not a solution; Does it perhaps prolong the life of the lifters by preventing them from activating AFM "4-cylinder" mode? Sure probably, but it is not a solution or fix.

Did the dealer quote you $1,800 for a New drivers seat bottom cushion cover, a new set of rear shocks and new front stabilizer link ends parts and labor? If so, that is surprisingly a damn good deal. Most dealers are quoting more than that just to replace the rear MRC shocks.

As for replacing your shocks; You have the Z95 suspension package which is the Magnetic Ride Control (MRC). I would recommend OEM parts ACDELCO Part #84977478. These can be found on Rockauto for about $450/ea (they used to be about $360-$380/ea.). In todays raw material environment though you will find that it is common they occasionally will be out of stock. Just keep hunting for them. Be aware of counterfeit aftermarket knock-offs on Amazon.

The dealer will try to charge you $700-$950/ea. for these shocks plus labor. You are better off checking with a local Tire Discounters or the like and just asking them: "I need my rear shocks replaced, if I supply you the parts will you perform the labor only?" I have a few Tire Discounters and auto places near me that will do this. You'll save significant $ over dealer OEM part mark-up and dealer labor.

Why does it need a new drivers side seat bottom cushion cover? Is it ripped? Torn?

Plenty of great information, advise, and direction on this forum for the full size GM SUV Platform.

Hope this helps. Congrats on the purchase!
 

tom3

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Might look into the warranty pretty quick. We just bought our '19 out of lease and you have ten days to purchase the warranty without added cost (from what i understand.) Shopped around and there is a pretty big spread on prices for the exact same warranty. And the GMEPP adds on to what your warranty is right now. Our 60/60/0 runs through 2027 and 78K miles.

But I am some concerned that your 5.3 (?) motor did need this work done at that mileage.
 

swathdiver

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Well I bit the bullet and bought the Denali for $43k. I have 20k miles left of the drivetrain warranty so I will start shopping for a aftermarket one soon. What brand shocks should I look into to replace the faulty factory ones I have and are there any other items I should address? I've been told to (pill) the transmission and to get the device that stops it from going to 4 cylinders ?

OE shocks are going to be the best or second to Arnott.
 

Tahoe14

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I would apply the money you are going to spend on the shocks towards the warranty which will cover everything. If you don't want to pay out the full amount of the warranty cost at this time they may offer a payment plan. I would stick with the GMEPP.
 
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Naplescaptain

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Might look into the warranty pretty quick. We just bought our '19 out of lease and you have ten days to purchase the warranty without added cost (from what i understand.) Shopped around and there is a pretty big spread on prices for the exact same warranty. And the GMEPP adds on to what your warranty is right now. Our 60/60/0 runs through 2027 and 78K miles.

But I am some concerned that your 5.3 (?) motor did need this work done at that mileage.
 
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Naplescaptain

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It's a 6.2 l engine... still seems to early but there are many that failed,,they say it's the whole 4 to 8 cylinder kick down?
 
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Naplescaptain

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Grab it! Keep up with the maintenance, severe service schedule, and you should be good. Get the engine tuned to disable AFM. "Flip the pill" on the side of the transmission is the first thing I'd do if yours were mine.

I'll second GMPP and mention that my daughter's APEX warranty just put a remanufactured transmission and torque converter in her truck.

I prefer to self insure and not worry about warranties or the process of getting repairs done.
What do you mean by. Flipping the pill on the trans?
 

lbenson

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What do you mean by. Flipping the pill on the trans?
There is no pill to flip on the trans for an 18 Denali... they have the 10 speeds while the temp sensor that needs to be corrected is on the 6 speeds which the Denali in question does not have.
 

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