DJM LCA/UCA alignment issues

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I have a 4x4/ torsion setup.

I'm running the norcal ss 3/5-6 kit. It includes the 3" LCA up front.

I also lowered the front an inch or so by loosening the torsion bars.

I added the DJM upper control arms as well as the offset bushings.

I'm maxed out for alignment but still at about -2 degrees of camber and its driving me nuts.

Am I missing something here? Debating on trying to flip the stock upper control arms to see if they are any longer in that position or just bite the bullet and get some Michigan Metal uppers.

Could get the cam plates to allow 1 more degree of adjustment but I would still have and see the negative camber.

Anyone able to chime in, maybe went through the same thing. Been looking for the answer but haven't found the same situation yet in my searches.
 
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Rocket Man

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Strange that the DJM's don't allow for more camber. Isn't that what the offset bushings are for?
 

Tab shots

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Where is the hole on the offset bushing ..... they should be closer to the motor to fix this issue
 
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It fixed some of the camber issues, but not all. And yes, I ensured I put the offset bushings in the correct way.

Im figuring I'm going to have to go to a longer upper arm...
 

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I've heard of a few problems with the DJM control arms, one being that there's no provision for jounce stops. Is that true? I'm kinda glad I went with drop spindles.
 
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For my setup, I am not running any bumpstops or jounce stops up front. In fact, I don't even recall there being a place for it, but I would have to go out and look.

Honestly, it hasn't proven to be necessary. My tires hit the top of my wheel well before anything and that's with anything that involves larger articulation than ever happens on normal driving conditions.

Which shows how low I am up front, I guess. Running a 305/35/24 up front and I am able to hide the top of my tire in the wheel well. (it rests lower than the below photo, though only by a little)
 

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I've always heard that the jounce stops are a critical part of the torsion bar suspension and they act as a fulcrum for the torsion bars. There's many threads on how replacing them improves the ride considerably, and if they aren't either close to or touching the control arms the ride suffers. I know that when I replaced mine , which were deteriorated, my ride definitely improved. But I have seen that the DJM control arms don't have a place for jounce stops and when you use their control arms, the jounce stops are eliminated. Which doesn't make sense to me. I don't understand how they are no longer needed when they are part of the torsion bar suspension design. It's not like the rear bump stops, which are just there for when the suspension travels too far, but instead are designed to be in constant use during normal suspension travel. Even lifted rigs add a part so that the jounce stops are raised up, to get them close to the control arms so they are in use. So I'm confused as to how DJM control arms can eliminate them and the suspension still operates correctly. Nobody has explained that as far as I know.
 
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My memory was incorrect. They are there.

20170913_074404.jpg
 

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Those look like djm lowers.I had the same question and Tony said to NOT use the jounce stops..My truck doesn't drive well at all..
 
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I have the djm lcas and the stoppers are still installed as you can see. I have no issues and a smooth ride..

Now I need to figure out the upper issue...
 

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That spot looks to me to be more bracing than a place for the jounce to hit..The angle isnt right either.
 
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His suggestion was to use the DJM offset bushing, which I had.

I have since swapped out to the longest MMW upper control arm. This will work great for what I am planning to do in the future with the final drop since I plan to go a little lower.

So, with that said, I have the DJM upper control arms along with the regular and offset bushings if someone is interested in buying them. I haven't had time to clean them up though they only have about 5 months of use on them. I also haven't had the time to come up with a price either.
 

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