****Disclaimer: This write up is heavily rushed as I am trying to get it done ASAP to help you all and I am running late to a lake trip. I had to rush this after work Friday and did not have the time to take more detailed pictures, etc. sorry. This is enough to get you going****
SO don't nit pick me to death
Ok here goes.
My compressor was completely trashed from the elements of nature. shocks blown.
Went to Arnotts and ordered online a new compressor and OEM shocks.
Wiring was a straight swap of wires to attach the new compressor to the existing oem factory harness plug. Just cut the the harness off the old compressor, and match it up to the new compressor. Wire colors ARE the same.
The compressor would NOT just come off the factory bracket due to the rusted seized bolts. So the entire compressor bracket with the compressor attached had to come off at once.
I had to cut the 3 compressor -> bracket mount bolts off and drill them out to allow a 1/4" screw & nut to go through it since the factory stud was immobilized.
Easy over all.
Here is the new arnotts compressor...
Jack truck up so rear axle is OFF the ground.
Take the compressor bracket off via 3 nuts. (2) are visually noticable and one is on the back side of the frame rail. There is an access hole that allows you to have a socket go through it to get the nut off. The studs on my truck did NOT stay in place. They fell back into the frame rail, but there is many little openings in the rail to get a magnet in there and fetch them.
now you see the mounting area with studs back in place...
Here is a pic of the access hole/port on the backside of the frame rail to get the third and last nut off... used a 3" extension
Now onto shock install
Old busted shit...
(DRIVER SIDE SHOCK REMOVAL)::
Here is the TOP bolt/nut. You will need a 21mm open end wrench and a 21mm socket wrench.
Put the 21mm ratchet on the backside of the bolt to hold it steady and from turning while loosening the front 21mm nut with the open end wrench. Its a tight fit for the ratchet but it can be done.
The lower shock bolt&nut come off like pie.
Now to get the bolts out once the nuts are off, you need to get the jack out and place it under the rear axle and slowly jack the rear axle up until it places the old shocks are their natural resting location so the shock isnt pushing/pulling on the bolts NOT allowing them to easily be tapped out.
Use antisieze on all the new hardware and mounting points. Reinstall the opposite way of removal.
NEW driver side shock installed
(PASSENGER SIDE SHOCK REMOVAL)::
This is technically the SAME as driver side shock removal with the exception of the top bolt removal. Their is multiple A/C looking lines that pass all in the area that the 21mm ratchet was placed in to hold the DRIVERS side bolt steady. DON'T panic. All you do this time around is put a 6" or so extension on the 21mm ratchet and go to the bolt from the backside of the frame rail. It will fit tightly though all the lines, etc.. to reach the head of the shock bolt.
Reinstall is the exact same.
Once all is tightened up and truck is back on ground, I started it and heard the compressor come on after a few moments, drove it around, all was well. No more indicator light for the suspension, YAY!
There ya guy Denali guys, my half assed thread for you with CAMERA PICS!
Here is my old DEAD beaten compressor in 2 pieces...
SO don't nit pick me to death
Ok here goes.
My compressor was completely trashed from the elements of nature. shocks blown.
Went to Arnotts and ordered online a new compressor and OEM shocks.
Wiring was a straight swap of wires to attach the new compressor to the existing oem factory harness plug. Just cut the the harness off the old compressor, and match it up to the new compressor. Wire colors ARE the same.
The compressor would NOT just come off the factory bracket due to the rusted seized bolts. So the entire compressor bracket with the compressor attached had to come off at once.
I had to cut the 3 compressor -> bracket mount bolts off and drill them out to allow a 1/4" screw & nut to go through it since the factory stud was immobilized.
Easy over all.
Here is the new arnotts compressor...
Jack truck up so rear axle is OFF the ground.
Take the compressor bracket off via 3 nuts. (2) are visually noticable and one is on the back side of the frame rail. There is an access hole that allows you to have a socket go through it to get the nut off. The studs on my truck did NOT stay in place. They fell back into the frame rail, but there is many little openings in the rail to get a magnet in there and fetch them.
now you see the mounting area with studs back in place...
Here is a pic of the access hole/port on the backside of the frame rail to get the third and last nut off... used a 3" extension
Now onto shock install
Old busted shit...
(DRIVER SIDE SHOCK REMOVAL)::
Here is the TOP bolt/nut. You will need a 21mm open end wrench and a 21mm socket wrench.
Put the 21mm ratchet on the backside of the bolt to hold it steady and from turning while loosening the front 21mm nut with the open end wrench. Its a tight fit for the ratchet but it can be done.
The lower shock bolt&nut come off like pie.
Now to get the bolts out once the nuts are off, you need to get the jack out and place it under the rear axle and slowly jack the rear axle up until it places the old shocks are their natural resting location so the shock isnt pushing/pulling on the bolts NOT allowing them to easily be tapped out.
Use antisieze on all the new hardware and mounting points. Reinstall the opposite way of removal.
NEW driver side shock installed
(PASSENGER SIDE SHOCK REMOVAL)::
This is technically the SAME as driver side shock removal with the exception of the top bolt removal. Their is multiple A/C looking lines that pass all in the area that the 21mm ratchet was placed in to hold the DRIVERS side bolt steady. DON'T panic. All you do this time around is put a 6" or so extension on the 21mm ratchet and go to the bolt from the backside of the frame rail. It will fit tightly though all the lines, etc.. to reach the head of the shock bolt.
Reinstall is the exact same.
Once all is tightened up and truck is back on ground, I started it and heard the compressor come on after a few moments, drove it around, all was well. No more indicator light for the suspension, YAY!
There ya guy Denali guys, my half assed thread for you with CAMERA PICS!
Here is my old DEAD beaten compressor in 2 pieces...