Delayed shifting after throttle body cleaning

[OR VietVet]

My truck did the same thing after cleaning the MAF, it hesitated badly. I continue to unhook the battery and hooking it back up, waiting for it to relearn in the end after driving it for a few hundred miles. It finally read learnt the new system on its own.

That is why I recommended it that way but had no idea it could take that long......wow.....hundred miles plus?

 

[Vint91]

That is why I recommended it that way but had no idea it could take that long......wow.....hundred miles plus?

Yeah, I see around 100 miles because I didn’t drive the truck on the highway until it smoothed out but it seem like a very long time

 

[specialized51]

I’m having the same issue with my 2011. I’ve done everything the comments suggest. Now I’m curious if because I’m only removing the negative battery cable and not the positive cable the truck isn’t truly resetting it parameters. Are you guys unplugging both terminals for a full drain?

 

[LsHart]

FYI, those fly by throttle bodies are real sensitive. Cleaner or dirt got into the idle air or the tps sensors when cleaning and at that point replacement needed.

 

[specialized51]

FYI, those fly by throttle bodies are real sensitive. Cleaner or dirt got into the idle air or the tps sensors when cleaning and at that point replacement needed.

Even if I sprayed TB/Carb Cleaner on a rag and wiped the TB clean? I left it on the truck and never sprayed anything onto the TB or surrounding components or wires. There aren’t any codes.

 

[LsHart]

Yes, just a slight manual opening of these types of throttle body's will screw it up. Just say u bump the butterfly open a little and the computer doesn't or can't see it.(the slight adjustment) then they will be off and it will effect the drive ability of it.

 

[specialized51]

Yes, just a slight manual opening of these types of throttle body's will screw it up. Just say u bump the butterfly open a little and the computer doesn't or can't see it.(the slight adjustment) then they will be off and it will effect the drive ability of it.

Alright, sounds like I need a new TB. Can I just buy a new one or does it need programmed to the truck by the dealer?

 

[LsHart]

U get what u pay for. Stick with brand. Good quality scanner will be needed.

 

[OR VietVet]

I take my throttle body completely off the upper intake and always use a new seal. I also do not spray the fluid on the throttle body. I use completely clean rags and/or Q-tips for tight places. I also clean both sides and open the plate approximately 3/8" and use a small piece of light wood to wedge in there and let the plate hold the wood in place. I have never had a code or had to do a reset. If I was going to remove cables for a reset, I would remove both and wait approx 15 seconds and then touch them together for about 1 minute. Then apart for 15 seconds and then after thoroughly cleaning cable ends and battery, if needed, replace and start the engine. I then would let it idle for a couple minutes and then take it on a road test at varying speeds. Mind you, I have never had to do all this but if I did, that is the way I was shown to do it.

 

[Doubeleive]

I’m having the same issue with my 2011. I’ve done everything the comments suggest. Now I’m curious if because I’m only removing the negative battery cable and not the positive cable the truck isn’t truly resetting it parameters. Are you guys unplugging both terminals for a full drain?

I have cleaned the throttle body countless times on all of my vehicles over the years and NEVER disconnected anything and NEVER had a problem.
when the engine is off there is no power going to the throttle body so no reason to disconnect anything, doing so is pointless.
That being said it's just the luck of the draw if a person will have problems afterwards but you shouldn't
ALSO, generally speaking the MAF is the what causes shift problems not the throttle body, it should be cleaned at the same time as the throttle body
and if it has 160k on it or more than it's probably time to replace it anyway. a scanner that can read live data will show you what the maf is reading.

 

[LsHart]

Hook a scanner to it and go to data. Watch what the throttle percentage is at idle and or throttle. And watch the MAF. Air volume has increased but not to the MAF. Get some MAF cleaner and clean it and see what happens. Not sure if ur fuel trims and or keep alive data can be reset.

 

[specialized51]

Hook a scanner to it and go to data. Watch what the throttle percentage is at idle and or throttle. And watch the MAF. Air volume has increased but not to the MAF. Get some MAF cleaner and clean it and see what happens. Not sure if ur fuel trims and or keep alive data can be reset.

I should have been more clear, I cleaned MAF first properly, then set to let dry. Then focused on the TB cleaning on the truck. The battery was still connected to truck at the time so maybe the blade being opened and closed manually from cleaning screwed me. I have an OBD2 scanner I can use to take readings like you recommended. It just so odd that the truck runs and idles perfect with zero codes and once I put it into gear it decides it wants to idle at 1K rpm’s and just idle and shift through the gears to 30mph+ with zero throttle input.

 

[specialized51]

Hook a scanner to it and go to data. Watch what the throttle percentage is at idle and or throttle. And watch the MAF. Air volume has increased but not to the MAF. Get some MAF cleaner and clean it and see what happens. Not sure if ur fuel trims and or keep alive data can be reset.

 

[LsHart]

I should have been more clear, I cleaned MAF first properly, then set to let dry. Then focused on the TB cleaning on the truck. The battery was still connected to truck at the time so maybe the blade being opened and closed manually from cleaning screwed me. I have an OBD2 scanner I can use to take readings like you recommended. It just so odd that the truck runs and idles perfect with zero codes and once I put it into gear it decides it wants to idle at 1K rpm’s and just idle and shift through the gears to 30mph+ with zero

When the truck is at idle, the butterfly valve in the throttle body is at rest. Which will let it idle. When computer looks at throttle when pedal is pressed the stepper motors in the throttle body are done for to be to the point. And the computer doesnt know the true value of the throttle body and just sees the live value and its not in correlation with the shift points and rpms. And this suggests the throttle butterfly is in a different position than the readings show. If that makes sense.