CV axles replacement 2002 Chev suburban LT

[Woodblocker55]

When everyone changes them do they by ac Delco or timkin ? Any advise would be great .. Is one brand better then the other ?


Mark

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[OR VietVet]

Since you did not decide to share if it is a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton I just guessed and looked up what I would use for a 1/2 ton. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=539187&cc=1380327&jsn=2340&jsn=2340


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

 

[Woodblocker55]

Since you did not decide to share if it is a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton I just guessed and looked up what I would use for a 1/2 ton. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=539187&cc=1380327&jsn=2340&jsn=2340


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

Yep 1/2 ton . Parts are pretty confusing. I seen orielys has CV axle for cheaper and 3 year warranty.
But like always they don't have to change it on a return either . I will get my info updated [emoji106] thanks for the input [emoji106] .. great group of people in here. I will share findings and what I did . I'm in rust belt so my repairs always get pretty interesting.

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[OR VietVet]

The dreaded rust belt. I hate rust and the salt that causes it.

 

[Woodblocker55]

The dreaded rust belt. I hate rust and the salt that causes it.

Rust belt action .. air hammer 120 psi just to get hub out of the carrier .. could that be the original ? 209,000 miles on it . Air hammered on bolts was only way I could get it out of there 2002 suburban there is 2 I work on 2002 Chev and 2006 Yukon XL .
There basically the same . Look close rainbow colors on hub bearing and totally Pitted rotor .. biggest pits I ever seen .. I think I'm going to put semi-metallic pads back on. And new hub of course. Maybe even shocks. CV shaft looks good
I think it's just the bearing that went out . And ways to check shaft ? There is no tears in boots ..

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[new2yukon]

When everyone changes them do they by ac Delco or timkin ? Any advise would be great .. Is one brand better then the other ?


Mark

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So not going rebuilt? Any reasons why? R they junk?

Just curious.

 

[Woodblocker55]

So not going rebuilt? Any reasons why? R they junk?

Just curious.

I'm thinking the CV axles are good yet .. but it's one thing I won't find out till I put it back together . I suppose I might kick myself for not replacing them when I have it apart .

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[OR VietVet]

When you are already thinking about axle replacement and you are torn down this far, it only makes sense to replace the axles but of course your call and your labor.

 

[Woodblocker55]

When you are already thinking about axle replacement and you are torn down this far, it only makes sense to replace the axles but of course your call and your labor.

I know ......How many miles does average CV axle last ? There is 209,000 on this rig .

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[Woodblocker55]

Wonder how much new front bearing hubs and brake rotor and pads install would cost at GM garage ? Would it be over $1000 ?

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[OR VietVet]

It would be well over a $1000. Hell, there is a thread on here where a member was at the dealer and they quoted him $400 to clean the throttle body plate. That should tell you something.

Wonder how much new front bearing hubs and brake rotor and pads install would cost at GM garage ? Would it be over $1000 ?

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To answer your other question, if those are the original axles at 209k miles, that is real good. They hardly wear out unless the boot splits and the grease slings out and the bearings run dry.

 

[Woodblocker55]

It would be well over a $1000. Hell, there is a thread on here where a member was at the dealer and they quoted him $400 to clean the throttle body plate. That should tell you something.



To answer your other question, if those are the original axles at 209k miles, that is real good. They hardly wear out unless the boot splits and the grease slings out and the bearings run dry.

Thanks for input [emoji106] ... I got one hub installed I ended up getting Moog hub for the front .. wonder how many miles there good for 50,000 miles ? All boots look good on CV axles [emoji106] thanks for the tip.
I'm replacing shocks also and doing brake job and semi metallic pads. Both are AC Delco ..

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[new2yukon]

One small piece of advise on brakes.:

Don't bother w/ the "high temp" synthetic brake grease. I think it was permatex that I used.

It was supposedly specifically for brakes. Well, on my car (not my Yukon) my pins kept freezing up on my calipers. Thought this was a high end lube and it wasn't.

Had to check the pins every year.

Switched to 3M silicone @ $18 per small jar but it WORKS! Highly recommend the spend on that stuff. No more stuck caliper pins after 4 yrs. My rears were stuck last year but either I hadn't regreased them w/ the silicone but even if I did, they went far longer w/ the 3M.

My $.02.

 

[Woodblocker55]

As looks someone had all ceramic pads .. so rotors have this glazed bluish tint mainly on the inside and rust pitted .. but outsides look better . I have a feeling someone replaced pads but not rotors at one time years ago . As looks both sides had heating issues one side bearing was rainbow colors other side rotor was dragging . I got one side bad bearing hub out with air hammer .. Im still have passenger side bearing hub still soaking . Air hammer would not even brake it loose .. maybe it will tomorrow.. I had to order 3 new bolts for that side air hammer destroyed the heads trying to get it out . And new rock shields .. thanks for tip on grease ..
I think in rust belt brakes seize up from the rust and destroy the pads and rotors. But I'm only guessing.



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[Woodblocker55]

Passenger side was stuck super super tight.
Air hammers ,5 pound mall , full can of penetrant,
Then I put rotor Back words and beat on that and it finally got the hub out.[emoji849][emoji15]

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[new2yukon]

For grins and giggles check the pad wear. Wondering if one side is worn far down and the other not so much.

I'm thinking a caliper pin froze and too much heat on rotor and hub. Cooked things.

I'm no brake pro but....if that's likely then I rest my case on 3M silicone for the pins. Love that stuff.

 

[Woodblocker55]

For grins and giggles check the pad wear. Wondering if one side is worn far down and the other not so much.

I'm thinking a caliper pin froze and too much heat on rotor and hub. Cooked things.

I'm no brake pro but....if that's likely then I rest my case on 3M silicone for the pins. Love that stuff.

Ok get ready for this there's still grease in the pins that's not problem problem is the rust under stainless clip pushes up and locked inside pad in place I had to hammer it out of there . So it was
Doing that strange tip and pinch deal and heated everything up on passager side. I'm going to clean it up under clips and grease it to stop the rusting under neath and replace boots on the pins also ..
So it's kind same issue pads not sliding freely .
Ya took alot beating to get pad out of there . And yes they where ceramic pads ya heating up nasty things .

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[new2yukon]

ahh. yes. the rust issue. I know it too well.

My underbody in many areas looks like joints are leaking but ya have to know my vehicle, which I pretty much do, to realize its not a leak but anti-rust lubricant.

Ha. A shop it was in thought I was leaking at the fuel filter and brake lines along drvr rocker panel. Nope. That's all gooped w/ lubricant. So lines last longer and if nuts have to be pulled that don't ROUND OFF AND BREAK...

I don't like it, but its better than rust. I know of no other way other than moving to the south.

 

[OR VietVet]

No rust in the PNW where no salt is used. At least here in Oregon, no salt.

 

[new2yukon]

No rust in the PNW where no salt is used. At least here in Oregon, no salt.

Jealous. Got my 2001 from Texas 5 yrs ago. Still no rust on body. Rinse like crazy and lube excessively.

I know no other answer. Next vehicle if older will also be from no salt area.