Coolant problems

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

TonyBuckets

TYF Newbie
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Posts
20
Reaction score
0
Location
Long Island, NY
Hey everyone, I have a problem with a coolant hose leaking, I have a 97 Tahoe, 5.7 V8 SFI. On the top passenger side of motor towards the front just behind the alternator there is a rubber hose that connects to a metal tube that goes into a big hex nut looking thing, I think its a coolant quick disconnect fitting, but cant seem to find anything online as far as replacements or even a how to, seems pretty straight forward but just don't want to end up screwing something up and paying for it. this post is not from a home computer so i'm going to try an upload two photos i have from my cell phone just so its more clear what i'm talking about. Thanks Tony

2012-12-29_14-10-41_606_zps67beecd5.jpg

2012-12-29_14-10-20_458_zpseb63cd81.jpg
 

_Dylan_

STAY FROSTY
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Posts
1,547
Reaction score
6
Location
941
I haven't fixed that myself, but those are prone to snapping off at the threads if you try to remove it. Then you might have to remove the intake to extract the pieces out and tapping it for a hose barb fitting to get rid of the crappy disconnect.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
184
Location
unknown at this time.
If it is just leaking from the plastic snap looking part get a nnew one from parts store and use just the clip part and oring inside. Drain some coolant disconnect line remove old oring and clean up ends a bit and snap back in with a bit of petroleum jelly on the oring. Top off ocassionally until air is out of system.
 

inthechateau

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Posts
149
Reaction score
0
Location
Maryland
The OEM fitting you are talking about is notorious for leaking. There is an upgraded fitting available, but care must be emphasized on removing the old one. I've had luck soaking with CRC or WD40 for a couple days prior to the operation. Softens up the corrosion and sealant on the threads. I've also had them snap oof just looking at them. If it snaps off the best way I've had luck removing is to take a hacksaw blade and cut the remaining fitting from the inside. cut evenly until the first sign of thread is evident. Then a 3/8" flat chisel and grab the top thread and try to slightly crush the fitting to loosen it's grip on teh manifold. Usually will come right out after that treatment. Sorry, no pic's of this procedure but I'll be sure to snap a few next time this job comes my way. Good luck and Happy New year
 

retorq

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Posts
3,018
Reaction score
10
Location
Kingman AZ
I did a write up it's here somewhere ... it's more then likely NOT leaking from the part that can be easily replaced ... Mine isn't a Vortec but the procedure is the same.
 

DevilDog

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Posts
28
Reaction score
0
Location
South Carolina
Had that same issue when I took my top end apart the last few days, only difference was that when I went to replace mine, the threads broke right off even with the intake. I had to do like chateau did. I soaked the remaining piece with some PB then took a small hacksaw blade and made 3 small cuts in the lower part of the fitting that broke off and then removed the pieces with a fine chisel. Just have to be careful to not cut into the intake threads. The replacement quick disconnect can be bought at advance for around 6 dollars, or you (like I did) can buy a straight hose bab (also at advance) and replace the quick disconnect for about the same price. I preferred the straight hose bab because it was steel instead of being aluminum like the quick disconnect. But like sunlit refered to, advance also sells the replacement plastic "duckbills" for about 3 dollars if its only leaking from there. If you choose to replace it with the straight bab, it will require you to cut the hose just behind the "pipe" and use a clamp to remount it to the new bab. Dont worry to much about cutting the hose pipe off because there is still plenty of hose length to make a good proper connection. Hope this helps.

The below I found which helps to explain this a little better.

http://www.angelfire.com/mech/pa/heater_hose.html
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
TonyBuckets

TonyBuckets

TYF Newbie
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Posts
20
Reaction score
0
Location
Long Island, NY
Awesome thanks for all the advice everyone, I'm going to be attempting this fix over the weekend, I gotta do brakes anyway so ill be freezing my ass off out side. I'll be updating with pics of my progress.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,481
Posts
1,816,593
Members
92,692
Latest member
mrb1234
Top