Clunk/ rattle steering or suspension

[Tahoe everything]

Doesn't matter if I've been driving for hours or UST started it up and put it in drive or reverse .... When I go over the slightest bump or crack in the road at low speeds I hear a clunk or maybe a rattle in the front end it sounds like... Also in the rear end sounds like a rattle or clunk...

My thoughts for the front end noise - something to do with the gear box ? Or CV axle ?

My thoughts on the rear end - emergency brake ? Slide bolts ? Rear end sway bar links ?

What I have replaced on the Tahoe includes the following.... Idler arm / Pittman arm/ upper lower ball joints both sides / tie rods both sides / hub assembly passenger side ( driver side shows no worn ) u joints front and reae/ intermediate steering shaft / steering shaft bearing ( inside the cab ) shocks / transmission mount ...

I might be missing something...

I did play with the steering shaft under the hood yesterday and could hear a clunk when turning it sounds like it's my gear box ? I can also feel a very small vibration in my steering wheel sometimes when touching my breaks.

I'm at a total loss hear and need some advice. I invested to much in this vehicle to have these little problems . I love the hoe and want to drive it until it blows up and then I want to restore it lol.

Please please help.

Thank you

 

[JollyRoger01]

Check your brake pad hardware, sway bar bushings and endlinks.

Also, I recently had a NBS in with a clunking sound that ended up being the fender brace on the left side. The one that runs across the battery. Make sure it's tight.

 

[Tahoe everything]

Check your brake pad hardware, sway bar bushings and endlinks.

Also, I recently had a NBS in with a clunking sound that ended up being the fender brace on the left side. The one that runs across the battery. Make sure it's tight.

Thank you I will check these out

 

[Doubeleive]

a couple other things to check is the cross member frame support is known to make a clunk noise (there is a tsb on it), the fix is to replace or remove and swap the bolts and re-torque, mine used to do it anytime anyone worked on the truck it had to be re tightened, also the rear bar that bolts up at an angle right behind the rear diff can make a clunk, make sure it is very tight and/or replace it mine was worn out and the clunk went away when I replaced it with a new one I think they run about $65.00

I also had a probably rare issue where the upper control arm bolt had been loose and it wore a egg shaped hole in the frame, making a clunk, my fix was to weld a very thick washer in place on the frame as the control arm bolt was long enough to do this, so check to be sure your control arm bolts are tightened properly as well. that one was a tricky one because it had been that way for a long time and you really couldn't tell or see it until it had worn a big enough spot to notice.

 

[Rocket Man]

I am surprised you haven't checked the swaybars and their bushings and endlinks.

 

[Jlaughtr]

Doesn't matter if I've been driving for hours or UST started it up and put it in drive or reverse .... When I go over the slightest bump or crack in the road at low speeds I hear a clunk or maybe a rattle in the front end it sounds like... Also in the rear end sounds like a rattle or clunk...

My thoughts for the front end noise - something to do with the gear box ? Or CV axle ?

My thoughts on the rear end - emergency brake ? Slide bolts ? Rear end sway bar links ?

What I have replaced on the Tahoe includes the following.... Idler arm / Pittman arm/ upper lower ball joints both sides / tie rods both sides / hub assembly passenger side ( driver side shows no worn ) u joints front and reae/ intermediate steering shaft / steering shaft bearing ( inside the cab ) shocks / transmission mount ...

I might be missing something...

I did play with the steering shaft under the hood yesterday and could hear a clunk when turning it sounds like it's my gear box ? I can also feel a very small vibration in my steering wheel sometimes when touching my breaks.

I'm at a total loss hear and need some advice. I invested to much in this vehicle to have these little problems . I love the hoe and want to drive it until it blows up and then I want to restore it lol.

Please please help.

Thank you

I have a rattle in the passenger front. I just had all the front suspension freshened up (all new bushings/UCA/ball joints etc) so i know its not suspension related. Also had the front wheel bearing replaced so it rules that out. I haven't the slightest idea either. Sound like a lose piece of metal rattling.

Looks like I will be checking the fender brace and cross member frame support

 

[Justinj360]

It sounds like you're having the same clunking issue as me. I first noticed it a few years ago after I had a leveling kit installed (2" spacers in the rear, 3" keys in the front) so I thought it might be because of that. Later on I figured it was ball joints/tie rods and they needed replaced anyway so I changed those. I've also replaced sway bar end links recently too. Pitman and idler arms are next on my list because I know those are very bad. I still have the same sound coming from the front driver's area near the steering box. As well as the similar clunking noise coming from the rear but I'm not as worried about that one. The clunking in the front sounds really bad, like there's a very loose bolt or two somewhere...

I recently drove my brother's 99 Silverado 1500 for a few days and his truck does not make that sound even though the suspension is nearly identical to my 2004 Yukon's suspension. His has 30k less miles than mine but has a completely stock suspension. I thought that was weird.
Let us know if you figure it out!

 

[Justinj360]

So my issue turned out to be my shocks/shock extenders for my leveling kit. One of the bolts for the extenders was loose. Also, I recently found out the Monroe shocks I was using weren't the right ones for my truck. They bolted up and everything but they weren't compatible with my "premium smooth ride suspension". I changed the shocks to Bilstein 5100s which are made for mild lifts and the clunking went away.

 

[Rocket Man]

So my issue turned out to be my shocks/shock extenders for my leveling kit. One of the bolts for the extenders was loose. Also, I recently found out the Monroe shocks I was using weren't the right ones for my truck. They bolted up and everything but they weren't compatible with my "premium smooth ride suspension". I changed the shocks to Bilstein 5100s which are made for mild lifts and the clunking went away.

5100's are great shocks. Anything Bilstein makes is great.

 

[Justinj360]

5100's are great shocks. Anything Bilstein makes is great.

This is my first time will Bilsteins and man what a difference on the first ride! Although to be fair the shocks I was using before weren't quite right for my truck.

 

[Rocket Man]

This is my first time will Bilsteins and man what a difference on the first ride! Although to be fair the shocks I was using before weren't quite right for my truck.

I'm running Bilstein all the way around on my 02. I was lucky enough to get the rear autoride shocks from Arnott when they were still made by Bilstein. The fronts from Arnott were their house brand but were never that good and I would sometimes rub on big dips so I went with Bilstein 4600's and now it rides awesome all the way around.

 

[treehan77]

It's prolly the upper intermediate steering shaft

 

[treehan77]

You can also "exercise" it. Just redistribute the grease by removing the bolt, shoving it in and out. Usually lasts a few months only to return. But it's something to try before you spend money to replace. Be sure to tape/tie steering wheel so it cannot move if you do this.

 

[Justinj360]

It's prolly the upper intermediate steering shaft

And/or the steering bearing. Might as well replace both at the same time.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

You can also "exercise" it. Just redistribute the grease by removing the bolt, shoving it in and out. Usually lasts a few months only to return. But it's something to try before you spend money to replace. Be sure to tape/tie steering wheel so it cannot move if you do this.

Mine has been good for about a year. Doing it again this week.

And/or the steering bearing. Might as well replace both at the same time.

Use the delco bearing. The dorman is a known problem.

 

[Justinj360]

[QUOTE="Use the delco bearing. The dorman is a known problem.[/QUOTE]

I thought it was the other way around?

 

[Tonyrodz]

You can also "exercise" it. Just redistribute the grease by removing the bolt, shoving it in and out. Usually lasts a few months only to return. But it's something to try before you spend money to replace. Be sure to tape/tie steering wheel so it cannot move if you do this.

Dealer told me he had to do this to a Tahoe, he said it was like he had to jerk it off!! @HiHoeSilver just think of that when you're doing yours. I dare you to not start laughing your ass off! Lol

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Dealer told me he had to do this to a Tahoe, he said it was like he had to jerk it off!! @HiHoeSilver just think of that when you're doing yours. I dare you to not start laughing your ass off! Lol

That explains it. Last time I did it, I remember thinking, "man I'm good at this!"

 

[Massfloefi]

[QUOTE="Use the delco bearing. The dorman is a known problem.

I thought it was the other way around?[/QUOTE]

Just replaced the Dorman 905-512 after 300 miles with GM part number 88963617. Bearings inside the Dorman were shot.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

[QUOTE="Use the delco bearing. The dorman is a known problem.

I thought it was the other way around?[/QUOTE]

Nope.