Clicking noise-2019 Yukon Denali 6.2L

[Scubagills]

clicking noise started recently, possibly after an oil change. Checked oil-looks full. Speeds up with throttle increase. Any ideas?
Check engine light came on today.

 

[L8T BURB]

Great chance you have a lifter issue. Get it to a mechanic ASAP to read the code and for a proper diagnosis. If the lifter completely collapses, it can cause further damage to the camshaft, etc.

 

[Scubagills]

Thank you. Have it at a mechanic now.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[Scubagills]

Great chance you have a lifter issue. Get it to a mechanic ASAP to read the code and for a proper diagnosis. If the lifter completely collapses, it can cause further damage to the camshaft, etc.

Mechanic says that I have a crack in the block that is leaking coolant into the engine. States that I need to replace the engine. He’s working up a quote now, but the ballpark estimate is $15k to $30k. That sound right to you?

 

[L8T BURB]

Mechanic says that I have a crack in the block that is leaking coolant into the engine. States that I need to replace the engine. He’s working up a quote now, but the ballpark estimate is $15k to $30k. That sound right to you?

This definitely sounds extreme. You could easily obtain a low/no mile engine from an salvage yard seller on Ebay and have an independant shop install it for WELL under 10k. Furthermore, if it is a lifter, there are even cheaper ways to replace the lifter/camshaft parts with even stronger parts than you have... and this would be closer to the 5k range.

This may be the first I have ever heard of a block cracking in these 2015+ engines, therefore I am HIGHLY skeptical of that diagnosis.

Hopefully some other members will chime in with some insight.

 

[15burban]

Get a 2nd opinion at the very least. Cheap and easy way to verify is get a coolant pressure tester and see if your cooling system holds pressure. Might be able to rent for free or get your deposit back from an auto parts store.

Just my opinion but 15-30k sounds like the mechanic threw out an outrageous bid hoping he wouldn't have to deal with the problem that he probably didn't find anyways.

 

[Scubagills]

Get a 2nd opinion at the very least. Cheap and easy way to verify is get a coolant pressure tester and see if your cooling system holds pressure. Might be able to rent for free or get your deposit back from an auto parts store.

Just my opinion but 15-30k sounds like the mechanic threw out an outrageous bid hoping he wouldn't have to deal with the problem that he probably didn't find anyways.

He came back with a bid of $20,500 to replace the motor. Said that GMC has them backordered, but he found a refurb one with 56k miles on it (truck has less than 55k miles on it). At this point, if what he’s saying is true, is it safe to drive to a dealership for a 2nd opinion or a trade-in?

 

[Scubagills]

Mechanic says that I have a crack in the block that is leaking coolant into the engine. States that I need to replace the engine. He’s working up a quote now, but the ballpark estimate is $15k to $30k. That sound right to you?

Updated quote is $20,500 for a refurb engine with 56k miles on it. He’ll give me a veteran discount, but it’s still at $20k.

 

[L8T BURB]

$20,500 is still beyond absurd. If you love the vehicle and want to keep it long term, getting a 2nd opinion of the diagnosis from the GM dealer wouldn't be a terrible idea. If they confirm it is a true engine replacement job, then you could consider trade or fix avenues at that point.

I would say to look at a trusted independent shop you can trust, but with this diagnosis and quote, I have little faith in that being an option in your area.

If I were in your shoes, anything beyond the $5,000 repair range and I would be looking to trade the vehicle. This is coming from someone who sank $15k into a 2015 Suburban for an engine/transmission replacement last year. Worst financial decision I ever made.

Is the vehicle drivable? Is the noise very loud? Carvana usually isn't very picky when selling. Depending upon the results of the dealership diagnosis, dumping it on Carvana may not be a terrible idea depending on where you are with equity/payments/etc of the Yukon currently.

 

[15burban]

If you drove it there I'd drive it from there to another shop. Or sign up for aaa should be around $100 and use them to have it towed if you don't feel comfortable driving it.

Just a quick search in my area but $6800-8000 for a rebuilt 6.2 with a 3 year/100k mile warranty. Car-part.com but before I'd go that route I would get a 2nd opinion. Or for a price like that I'd get a 3rd. Going from a tick to a cracked block is a big jump. If it were me and I brought it to another shop for a diagnosis I wouldn't tell them what the 1st shop said. A lot of places do not like doing diagnosis work if they can't just plug in their scanner and have it tell them exactly what's wrong.

 

[Doubeleive]

Updated quote is $20,500 for a refurb engine with 56k miles on it. He’ll give me a veteran discount, but it’s still at $20k.

dude, you are getting burned so bad I can smell it from here..........
tell that guy to kick rocks and take it somewhere else.
hint if there was coolant & oil mixing you would have big puffs of white smoke coming out the tail pipe, like puff the magic f9ucking dragon smoking a big o'l fatty
And when you do take it to someone else do not mention anything about a cracked block or that you had anyone else check it already, just mum is the word, "please check and advise."

 

[Fless]

Any specifics or notes about what the mechanic found? Is there a particular cylinder that's affected? Did he find exhaust fumes in the coolant? Where's the crack?

Simply put, the pricing quoted is outrageous.

 

[PPV_2018]

20.5k for a junkyard engine with 50k on it.. What a “veteran discount”.. if he’s gonna try to fcck you that hard, at least tell him put a ring on it first..

In agreement with all the previous posters, this quote is mind numbing.. immediately retrieve your vehicle, bring it somewhere else (and like @Doubeleive said do NOT mention anything about a cracked block), and distance yourself from this mechanic shop as far as you can now and forever.

 

[Nutro]

I've RARELY heard of one of these blocks to crack. I'd say he is lying to you and trying to screw you. There are tons of low mile 6.2L at LKQ for $5K and its maybe another $3K in labor and that is pretty steep as well.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Mechanic says that I have a crack in the block that is leaking coolant into the engine. States that I need to replace the engine. He’s working up a quote now, but the ballpark estimate is $15k to $30k. That sound right to you?

Run away from this shop and DON'T look back. I've heard of extreme quotes, but this one is about the most outrageous that I've ever heard for a motor replacement. And, as stated above, the quality/validity of the diagnosis of the issue itself is quite suspect.

Find yourself another local shop and let them take a look at it.

 

[RST Dana]

Check your pockets and make sure you don’t have any Franklins hanging out and don’t mention anything about your boat, or lake house at the next stop.

 

[Scubagills]

Picked up the Yukon and have it at home now. The ride home had a very rough idle, shaking, check engine light is on and I’ve got smoke coming out of the exhaust. It’s obvious that something major is wrong, but the $20k quote is the killer. Looking for other local shops to take it to. I’m in Apex NC, btw. Things are expensive here, but this seems ridiculous.
Really appreciate the input from everyone. Probably saved me from getting f’d hard.
It sounds like (based upon the advice), I should be expecting to pay ~$7-11k for a new/used engine.

 

[15burban]

Sorry @Scubagills for asking a question on your thread but it should help...does anyone know what the "book" hours are to remove and replace the motor? Curiosity has the best of me.

Do you have a code reader to read the check engine light? Maybe it's something simple like they forgot to plug a sensor back in. Although it doesn't sound good.

 

[Scubagills]

The light had come on right as I was pulling in to the shop initially. Not that they couldn’t have done something else to it…