CCM Kit Installation LTZ

[Asylum]

I installed the 2.5 kit on the weekend, but somethings been bothering me since then about the replacement of the ball joint.
Been looking around a bit to see if anyone else mentioning if they had problems getting the top ball joint back in place.
When I placed the jack under the lower arm to raise it, I noticed the truck was rising instead of the strut compressing. I had to pry the top arm down with a lot of force with a pry bar in order to place the nut back on the ball joint.

Was this normal for anyone else? If not, why do you thing the shock wasn't compressing?

 

[Blazed]

How much force is alot of force?
I've replaced spindles and it was hard to get the top ball joint in.

 

[Asylum]

I would say at least 100lbs. The whole truck was lifting instead. I was surprised to see the arm wasn't rising at all because most threads explained to place the jack under it.

 

[Blazed]

Oh then idk mine wasn't 100 pounds I don't think.
I could hold it into place while my helper screwed the bolt on but it was hard to hold and took a few tries..

 

[NORCAL SS]

where did you jack it up from?? closer to outside end of arm or more toward center.

Usually unloosening the upper a arm bolts also makes it easier to swing around the arm down on the lifts ive done. Your going to need a alignment anyway so if something moves dont worry. I posted one I did not to long ago

 

[99thomas]

just experienced the same thing with my suburban tonight and sucked since i did it by myself, although only one front done, although i cant torque due to not fitting in there, so loosen the a arm? its getting 50k service tomorrow anyways. did you have problems with the rear, i need to get spring compressor otherwise everything is stretched to max with just a slight wiggle of spring. would think im doing it wrong but the instruction were to basic imho. ccm 2.5/1

 

[Wakinvol]

ReadyLift has better instructions, along with photos. I did my CCM and removed it by myself. It isn't too bad.

 

[99thomas]

almost bought the readylift, but doesnt really matter now, just would have been nice to have more accurate instruction, im sure everyones had to do more than was instructed since there isnt much difference in the vehicles. wonder what vehicle they used to base instructions on...lol

 

[Wakinvol]

I like the CCM much better, but the RL instructions were much more detailed.

 

[99thomas]

all done, said the heck with the spring compressor and just unhooked the brake line from the axle and sway bar. not a very enjoyable job by myself.

 

[rocketman76]

I just did it on my Yukon XL AWD. I made sure my axle joints were not binding before jacking the lower A arm up, just below strut . Once the strut stopped compressing I placed a 4' pry bar across the upper A arm and had to lean my body on the pry bar while starting the ball joint nut. By the way, I believe I need a bigger spacers in the rear. The Yukon is not level at all, can I use a 2" spacer?

 

[Asylum]

I bought a separate 1.5'' spacer for rear instead of using the 1'' from ccm. If it's an LTZ, you may have to mod the sensor rod for the auto leveling. Not sure how much retractable space is left on the stock shock if you place a 2''.

 

[99thomas]

Not sure if driving around made any difference but i was still 1.5 higher in the rear, so i could have actually gone without the spacer but it looks fine, darn roof rack almost caught the garage door with 285/70/17 added.

 

[felixgun]

^^^Do you have an LTZ Thomas? The LTZ's sit lower in the rear then LS/LT versions. I have an LTZ and it sat lower in the rear after the 2.5" leveling kit up front so I installed 1.5" rear spacers and now it's perfectly leveled.

 

[rocketman76]

I replaced my Autoride shocks and struts with Bilstein 4600s. Since the, the Yukon has been high up front stock, lowered and leveled. Anyone interested in some 2 month old Bilsteins? I might just go with Pedders all around.

 

[chade7320]

^^^Do you have an LTZ Thomas? The LTZ's sit lower in the rear then LS/LT versions. I have an LTZ and it sat lower in the rear after the 2.5" leveling kit up front so I installed 1.5" rear spacers and now it's perfectly leveled.

Where did you get the 1.5" spacers? I just installed the ccm 2.5/1 on our ltz and it looks awful. Sits about 1.5" lower in rear with the spacer that came with the kit.

 

[felixgun]

Yep that's why I didn't go with the ccm since I have an LTZ. I got my rear 1.5 spacers from eBay.

 

[cjweb11]

Here is the $68 1.5" rear kit I used with the Truxxx 2.5" front spacers.

It comes with the spring spacer pucks and shock extenders to keep rear shocks in normal position... someone with more knowledge will have to comment on how these extensions work with LTZ autoride, but keeps great factory ride on my Z71

BB REAR 1.5" COIL SPACER LEVELING LIFT KIT W/ SHOCK EXTENSION 4X2 4X4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BB-REAR-1-5-...de92b2&vxp=mtr

---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:18 PM ----------

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BB-REAR-1-5...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a20de92b2&vxp=mtr

 

[chade7320]

Yep that's why I didn't go with the ccm since I have an LTZ. I got my rear 1.5 spacers from eBay.

Did you have more than .5" difference and it corrected it?

Right now I'm showing 8" between tire and fender on both fronts and 6.5" in rear. Even with a 1.5" puck ill still have an inch difference

 

[felixgun]

Measurements for my Avalanche with the 2.5" front only (stock rear):
PR- 38.19"
PF- 38.50"
DR- 37.13"
DF- 38.38"

Measurements with the 2.5" in front and 1.5" spacer in the rear:
PR- 38.93"
PF- 39.00"
DR- 38.56"
DF- 38.38"