AC problem .. no pressure on gauges

[rigid1]

The snowflake light blinks 3 times. Mode is set correctly. Compressor does not engage . I get zero pressure on HP or LP when the gauges are hooked up. When I empty a can of freon in LP side the compressor will come on. Air is still blowing warm because I assume it is low charge. Snowflake light stayed on. .. My guess is a have a leak somewhere that I have to track down. Does this sound correct?

Thank you

 

[79jasper]

Zero pressure means it is empty.
You can charge the system with nitrogen to find the leak. You can also use compressed air, more accessible to most people.
If it isn't leaking right out, get some dye, then charge the system with refrigerant.
If you look around the system, you will likely find the leak. Usually will be dirty from the oil leaking out.
The pressure switch and charge ports are common leak points.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[OR VietVet]

You may also be able to see the leak. When refrigerant leaks out so does some of the a/c oil inside the system. When that happens dirt will collect at the oil film. Typically that shows a seal leak at a threaded connection.

 

[rigid1]

Zero pressure means it is empty.
You can charge the system with nitrogen to find the leak. You can also use compressed air, more accessible to most people.
If it isn't leaking right out, get some dye, then charge the system with refrigerant.
If you look around the system, you will likely find the leak. Usually will be dirty from the oil leaking out.
The pressure switch and charge ports are common leak points.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

f

 

[rigid1]

Found my leak somewhat. It is one of the two inside lines of the group of four going to rear ac. Not positive but I think the last bracket on the running board has rubbed a hole. Yellow dye in that location and I don't see anything wrong on the outside lines.

My next question is have any of you tried the splice repair kits or the rear block off kits? I would like to avoid blocking the rear if possible.

I'm not sure which splice kit I would need? The caliper measure the od as best as I could at slightly over .500?

Any insight is appreciated. Thank you

 

[OR VietVet]

Supply the last eight digits of your VIN and hopefully @915_Tahoe can chime in to help see what you need.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

You need to replace the accumulator/drier since it had air in it. Should replace orifice tube too.

 

[rigid1]

Last 8 digits are 8j152499 Hadn't thought about the accumulator because it has not been opened. That may not be fun. I have gauges to test pressure and charge, but I do not have any way to vacuum after replacing the accumulator.

Thank you

 

[OR VietVet]

This is why if you have no mechanical background with a/c work, it should be left to the experienced techs. The accumulator/receiver drier is always supposed to be replaced when you open the system. Plus, with all refrigerant having leaked out then the air is already in the system and that makes the accumulator bad. The accumulator is a moisture filter. Lots of moisture in the air we breath. So, besides the part(s) that has the leak in it, you will need the orifice and the accumulator. If you have never done this type of work, I recommend a trained tech. They will have the equipment to pull the vacuum needed and to charge the a/c and if they know what they are doing, they will do a COMPLETE leak test on the system when it is full.

 

[rigid1]

The mechanical part I can do. I will have to take it someone to vac and charge at that point. I have a friend that owns a body shop and they have all the equipment. I need to determine what splice kit to use or if I should use the block off . Would like avoid that id possible.

Thank you