AC problem .. no pressure on gauges

[rigid1]

The snowflake light blinks 3 times. Mode is set correctly. Compressor does not engage . I get zero pressure on HP or LP when the gauges are hooked up. When I empty a can of freon in LP side the compressor will come on. Air is still blowing warm because I assume it is low charge. Snowflake light stayed on. .. My guess is a have a leak somewhere that I have to track down. Does this sound correct?

Thank you

 

[79jasper]

Zero pressure means it is empty.
You can charge the system with nitrogen to find the leak. You can also use compressed air, more accessible to most people.
If it isn't leaking right out, get some dye, then charge the system with refrigerant.
If you look around the system, you will likely find the leak. Usually will be dirty from the oil leaking out.
The pressure switch and charge ports are common leak points.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[OR VietVet]

You may also be able to see the leak. When refrigerant leaks out so does some of the a/c oil inside the system. When that happens dirt will collect at the oil film. Typically that shows a seal leak at a threaded connection.

 

[rigid1]

Zero pressure means it is empty.
You can charge the system with nitrogen to find the leak. You can also use compressed air, more accessible to most people.
If it isn't leaking right out, get some dye, then charge the system with refrigerant.
If you look around the system, you will likely find the leak. Usually will be dirty from the oil leaking out.
The pressure switch and charge ports are common leak points.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

f

 

[rigid1]

Found my leak somewhat. It is one of the two inside lines of the group of four going to rear ac. Not positive but I think the last bracket on the running board has rubbed a hole. Yellow dye in that location and I don't see anything wrong on the outside lines.

My next question is have any of you tried the splice repair kits or the rear block off kits? I would like to avoid blocking the rear if possible.

I'm not sure which splice kit I would need? The caliper measure the od as best as I could at slightly over .500?

Any insight is appreciated. Thank you

 

[OR VietVet]

Supply the last eight digits of your VIN and hopefully @915_Tahoe can chime in to help see what you need.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

You need to replace the accumulator/drier since it had air in it. Should replace orifice tube too.

 

[rigid1]

Last 8 digits are 8j152499 Hadn't thought about the accumulator because it has not been opened. That may not be fun. I have gauges to test pressure and charge, but I do not have any way to vacuum after replacing the accumulator.

Thank you

 

[OR VietVet]

This is why if you have no mechanical background with a/c work, it should be left to the experienced techs. The accumulator/receiver drier is always supposed to be replaced when you open the system. Plus, with all refrigerant having leaked out then the air is already in the system and that makes the accumulator bad. The accumulator is a moisture filter. Lots of moisture in the air we breath. So, besides the part(s) that has the leak in it, you will need the orifice and the accumulator. If you have never done this type of work, I recommend a trained tech. They will have the equipment to pull the vacuum needed and to charge the a/c and if they know what they are doing, they will do a COMPLETE leak test on the system when it is full.

 

[rigid1]

The mechanical part I can do. I will have to take it someone to vac and charge at that point. I have a friend that owns a body shop and they have all the equipment. I need to determine what splice kit to use or if I should use the block off . Would like avoid that id possible.

Thank you

 

[swathdiver]

The mechanical part I can do. I will have to take it someone to vac and charge at that point. I have a friend that owns a body shop and they have all the equipment. I need to determine what splice kit to use or if I should use the block off . Would like avoid that id possible.

Thank you

You can buy a 2.5 CFM vacuum pump and set of manifold gauges at Harbor Freight to do the work. Don't forget the 20% OFF coupon!

Bought the manifold to check out and charge up my wife's car. Took a charge and discovered that both schrader valves are leaking. Bought new caps. If they hold, we kicked the can down the road. If we have to replace the schrader valves, we'll next buy the vacuum pump and a couple more cans of freon.

 

[rigid1]

You can buy a 2.5 CFM vacuum pump and set of manifold gauges at Harbor Freight to do the work. Don't forget the 20% OFF coupon!

Bought the manifold to check out and charge up my wife's car. Took a charge and discovered that both schrader valves are leaking. Bought new caps. If they hold, we kicked the can down the road. If we have to replace the schrader valves, we'll next buy the vacuum pump and a couple more cans of freon.

Thanks. I have the gauges already. The reviews on that pump look good for what I would be doing. I have another car that needs a condenser so the pump would be handy.

I just need to figure out what splice kit I need.


thank you

 

[OR VietVet]

Why would you not replace the whole old line that is leaking and just use a splice? By the time another year goes by you might have 2 more splices in that line. I have never heard of any splice being permanent in a high pressure a/c system. Your call though.

You said earlier that you have the mechanical ability, so that means to me that the line replacement itself is not a problem?

 

[rigid1]

Not opposed to replacing the whole line I guess. I had thought it would be a pain in the butt to get to everything getting the old one out and a new one through all the brackets . Is there a better option than the factory type pre-bent line? Any suggestions on a good source?

thank you

 

[OR VietVet]

I can't give a recommendation because I would be looking to replace with the oe line. I can look up if you would supply your rig info, like should be done with every request for help.


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

 

[live2pull]

You can buy a 2.5 CFM vacuum pump and set of manifold gauges at Harbor Freight to do the work. Don't forget the 20% OFF coupon!

Bought the manifold to check out and charge up my wife's car. Took a charge and discovered that both schrader valves are leaking. Bought new caps. If they hold, we kicked the can down the road. If we have to replace the schrader valves, we'll next buy the vacuum pump and a couple more cans of freon.

If you are doing schrader valves and dont want to discharge the system.

https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-Con...der+valve+removal+tool&qid=1593044670&sr=8-14

 

[TJ Baker]

discovered that both schrader valves are leaking. Bought new caps. If they hold, we kicked the can down the road. If we have to replace the schrader valves, we'll next buy the vacuum pump and a couple more cans of freon.

Look around for something like this.....

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24529-R134a-Remover-Installer/dp/B01BW3973Y


I haven't used an r134 type but have used equivalent tools on residential and commercial AC systems.

 

[swathdiver]

If you are doing schrader valves and dont want to discharge the system.

https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-Con...der+valve+removal+tool&qid=1593044670&sr=8-14

Look around for something like this.....

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24529-R134a-Remover-Installer/dp/B01BW3973Y


I haven't used an r134 type but have used equivalent tools on residential and commercial AC systems.

Ingenious! Thanks fellas!

 

[TJ Baker]

Ingenious! Thanks fellas!

Do read some reviews as I have read of some poorly made units that fail during use with refrigerant spewing everywhere.

Also I read about some large bore schraeders that the standard tools won't work with.

 

[bobo49505]

If you want hardlines dorman has a kit on rockauto. Or i got some rubber lines from https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com they have full line sets patch kits and block off kits. And mine leaked at the same spot last mount before rear axle.