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03Tah0eZ71

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I just recently ran mine this way for a couple weeks after blowing a CV. I would consider if the stub shaft would interfere with anything when using a lift spindle, however. If it would you will have to switch to 2wd hubs anyway.

You don't have to be worried about a tcase speed code because the front driveshaft is not spinning even when the CVs are in place. There is a disconnect in the front differential.

All that said, how much lift are you shooting for? I would not be eager to lose my 4wd if I had it... especially for appearance no less.
I’m running ford keys right now so I got around 3 inches of lift already so hoping if I stack that with the spindle lift and if I cut my bump stop off I got get 7-8+ inches.
 

Alex_M

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If you cut out the droop stop you are going to start popping ball joints left and right. If you're going that tall you need aftermarket control arms anyway, and longer shocks. Once you buy all that, plus 2wd hubs, plus $150 for lift spindles, you might as well had gone on with a proper 4wd lift.... or solid axle swap at that height.
 

89Suburban

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I’m running ford keys right now so I got around 3 inches of lift already so hoping if I stack that with the spindle lift and if I cut my bump stop off I got get 7-8+ inches.


Did you ever make this swap yet? I did a test run, unplugging the diff actuator throws the 4wd Service on. I believe if you remove the front diff, there is plenty of slack in the harness to run it up into the engine compartment. Tie it off somewhere in there with the actuator plugged into it. Maybe stick the actuator in a plastic bottle and tape it shut.

I'm talking the mechanical type actuator, not the older ones that need to heat up. Or I am sure there could be a way to "fool the computer" using some kind of electrical wizardry at the plug after studying some schematics.
 

Alex_M

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Sub'd. Always wondered about this and if removing the front drive line throws up codes. You can make stub shafts out of the CV's to hold the front bearings together. Lot's of different opinions here over the years on the differences between the 2WD and 4WD hub assemblies. Some say they are the same and no need for the stub shafts to hold the bearings from coming apart, others swear it does.
Over the summer I did this on an off roading trip after breaking a CV on my Land Rover. I wheeled the rest of the day anyway and the hub did end up separating enough you could see a very noticable lean to the tire when I pulled it on the trailer. When I replaced the hub it has separated more than half an inch, being held in by the brakes essentially.

It may vary some vehicle to vehicle, but I wouldn't be eager to run without stub shafts on 4wd hubs after that experience.
 

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