2nd Battery?!

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LTgmc

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I am getting ready to put a winch on the truck and a few lights later down the road. I tried searching through the forums before asking, but I didnt find anything. I was wondering how many of you guys are running a 2nd battery, or if I even need it? I have my stereo(no amps or subs) and fog lights running to the current battery. Will a winch overdue it or will it be ok?
 

Brandon X

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Unless you have a system that pushes over 1000rms I wouldn't even bother with a second battery. If I were you I would just upgrade your battery to a high quality one like an Optima yellow or red top.
 

2drhoeon4s

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never hurts to have extra juice. I have 4 going in the back of mine.
 

rdhenderson

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If you plan on running a winch I would definitely recommend a second battery. Not so if all you plan on doing is running an amp and some additional lights. I have been slowly installing one as well and have been posting my progress along the way.
 

dwillmont

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Here is a write up I did on GMT400.com



Aux. Battery With Pics!

So I hardly drive the Tahoe due to having a company vehicle when i do want to drive it battery is usually low and I have to jump it. Not any more follow along to see how to add an aux battery for added power.
NOTE: Mine was done with 2 batteries both having both top and side terminals can be done with side post just takes some alterations from directions. Proceed at your own risk instructor accepts no responsibility.

Parts needed:
1. A second battery (recommend same size as primary to prevent balancing issues)
2. Battery tray available from dealer or salvage yard (mine had storage box)
3. 1 Solenoid p/n 7000-S also referred to as 3 terminal battery switch (got mine from a camper supply store they are used in RV's)
4. 3 top post battery terminals (got mine from Walmart in the car audio section) (dont have to be that fancy but I wanted looks)
5. 1 - 4ga 78in. red battery cable with ring lug on one end from O'Reilly
6. 1 - 4ga 15in. red battery cable with ring lug on one end from O'Reilly
7. 1 - 4ga 30in. black battery cable with ring lug on one end from O'Reilly
8. 1 - 12ga. 6ft. stranded wire
9. 1 - 12ga. fuse holder with 20a fuse
10. Various sizes of shrink tubing
11. 1 - 12ga. ring terminal
12. 1 - 8ga. 2ft. black battery cable
13. 1 - 8ga. ring terminal
14. Zip Ties

Tools needed:
1. Test light
2. 3/8 drive sockets of various sizes
3. Lighter (for shrink tube)
4. Various wrenches
5. Wire Cutters
6. Razor Knife

Instructions:
1. To start test fit the solenoid where you will have fairly easy access(I chose to mount in front of ECM) you can mount using the existing bolt and a self tapping screw.


2. Install battery into new battery tray previously or factory installed.

3. DO NOT CONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE UNTIL INSTRUCTED TO DO SO.

4. Using the 78in. cable connect ring terminal to one of the large terminals on the solenoid


5. Route the cable across to the primary battery DO NOT CONNECT.(I chose to zip tie to existing battery cable)


6. Using the 15in. cable connect ring terminal to opposite large terminal on the solenoid

7. Place on of the battery terminals on the positive post of the auxillary battery.


8. Using the short battery cable route to terminal to determine length cut off excess and strip insulation off about 3/8 inch

9. Insert stripped end of cable into terminal and fasten set screw.

10. On the free end of the 78in. cable perform the same operation as before and install this cable end on the primary battery.

11. At this time both battery cables from solenoid should be attached at one end to the solenoid and one to each battery + post.

12. Using the 30in. ground cable attach under the nut directly behind the p/s pump.

13. Route cable up to negative terminal measuring length to cut using 3rd battery cable terminal.

14. Now we will install a ring terminal onto the 8ga. wire and attach terminal under bolt holding ABS module.

15. Again route this cable along side of 4ga. to battery - terminal

16. Connect both ground wires to terminal and install to battery.
it should look like this at this time





17. Now install ring terminal to 12ga. wire and use heat shrink on connection.

18. Connect to small terminal on solenoid

19. Route cable under ECM past under hood fuse box.

20. Run wire through firewall and install 12ga. fuse holder under dash be sure to leave a little bit of slack.

21. Locate and isolate a 12ga. pink wire coming from the steering column.

22. Using your test light probe wire and ensure that wire is active when key is turned from off-accessory-crank and doesn't lose power until the key is shut off.

23. Once you confirm you have the correct wire strip approximately 1/4"- 3/8" from center of wire being careful not to cut the wire.

24. Strip back approximately 3/4" to 1" from free end of fuse holder and insert through the bare spot on pink wire wrap until wire around wire until secure for better connection I soldered mine.

25. Using electrical tape protect any bare piece of wire under the dash and install a zip tie to the connection to keep it tight and secure. Listen carefully while turning on the key to ensure solenoid engages (use an assistant to feel solenoid to besure it doesnt disengage before key is cycled off.

26. If all is working well clean up and enjoy 2000 cranking amps like I am.


One benefit of wiring this way with these terminals you can wire accessories to aux. battery and not worry about draining primary when key is off. Another key benefit is as soon as the truck is started both batteries are charging and the truck basically will jump start itself.


Thanks for your time and if anybody has anything to add or any questions just let me know.






OK gotta figure out how to get the pics in here!!! any body know how?


Anyways if you need pics look over on the other site and in the mean time I will try to get them here
 

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