2019 Escalade 10L80 transmission fluid change

[STL_G8GT]

Have some questions here about a 2018 Yukon with the 10L80...

I've seen two different procedures - my ALLDATA sheet for the 2018 Yukon (Current subscription) tells me to get the trans to 200deg and measure at or above that temp. However, I'm seeing plenty of posts on camaro6 and other newer vehicles (2022 silverados, for example, and even the 2019 Escalade in this thread) that use the same transmission state to check the temp once it's over 158, and should stay in the 167-176 range.


A few questions:

Was the temp window never changed for the 2018 (early) transmissions for fluid check, or did alldata never update the data for the 2018? Which temperature should I be checking at? (And if it's different than what my alldata sub says, why is that?)

The instructions recommend brake torquing to get to temp, which I followed (under 1500rpm, 10 sec on / 10 sec off). I've read that's really stupid (generates too much heat in the converter) - but is it dangerous if directions are followed and temps are watched?

Edit here: ACDelcoTDS lists the same temps as ALLData for the 2018 Yukon:

Warning: The transmission fluid temperature (TFT) must be between 95-100°C (203-212°F). If the TFT is lower than this temperature range, either idle or brake torque the vehicle to raise the fluid temperature. If the TFT is higher than this range, shut off the vehicle to allow the fluid to cool as required. Setting the fluid level with a TFT outside this range will result in either an over-fill or under-fill condition. If TFT is greater than 100°C = under-filled. If TFT is less than 95°C = over-filled. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage. An over-filled transmission will cause fluid to overflow from the vent tube, possibly causing a fire that may result in serious bodily injury or severe vehicle damage, fluid foaming, or pump cavitation.

1. Note: This vehicle is equipped with an internal thermal bypass valve, located inside the valve body, the transmission fluid level should be checked only after the TFT has reached or exceeded an operating temperature of 100°C (212°F). Once the TFT has reached or exceeded 100°C  (212°F), then continue to run the engine and allow the TFT to maintain a temperature between 95-100°C  (203-212°F) before checking the fluid level as required.

 

[B-train]

Gee whiz.....what happened to a dipstick tube and drain plug like the 2000 4L60E? What a great design. I hate new design engineers.

Props to all of you for doing your own service on the newer stuff. Good information to know!

 

[STL_G8GT]

Gee whiz.....what happened to a dipstick tube and drain plug like the 2000 4L60E? What a great design. I hate new design engineers.

Props to all of you for doing your own service on the newer stuff. Good information to know!

Yeah, it's something alright!!!

 

[lt1gmc]

For those attempting to do a flush, recognize that the trans temp would need to be up to temp for the t-stat to direct much flow to the cooler.

 

[Chalie M]

I did it. Completed the job.

The things that I THOUGHT were going to be difficult were not difficult. Not at all. The things I least expected to be difficult, were difficult.

1. The fill plug uses a 8mm hex allen head. On top of that, it's a stubby; there's no space to get in there with a ratchet unless you have the stubby bit, which I didn't have.
2. Taking off the jiffy type connector for the cooling hose on the radiator was much harder than I thought because the awkward positioning.
3. The fill plug was sealed shut with pipe dope and loctite. From the factory.

Doing the fluid exchange was easy but time consuming, because I had to drain 2 quarts, fill 2 quarts (from below). Thankfully I foresaw this and had a pump so pumping new fluid into the transmission was easy. I did the exchange until it ran cherry red (but not bright cherry red yet, because I had to save fluid).

Now, the part that I was expecting to have much trouble? DROPPING THE PAN.

Except, the trouble never materialized. I drained all the fluid so there was no spillage, disconnected everything, took all the screws out, lowered the pan, angled it to the right (toward the passenger side), and the pan DROPPED RIGHT OUT. No fuss, no problem, nothing at all. No jacking the exhaust pipe, lowering it, disconnecting transmission bolts, nothing. Took me less than a minute to get the pan out once I had all the screws out and it lowered. I'm not even exaggerating.

I'm even let down because I thought the transmission pan would put up much more of a fight. After all, everyone is complaining about it the most. It posed zero obstacle to me whatsoever.

Once I had it open, I changed the filter, cleaned the pan/magnets, buttoned everything back up, filled it back up with 4 quarts, went through the fluid level check procedure, and I was done. I did run into difficulty with the fluid check procedure. My truck does have a fluid check plug. But even at 167-176F, even after filling (and overfilling slightly), none to only slightly few drips came out the fluid check plug, but wanted to come out the fill plug instead. I had to end up using 1.75 extra quarts. I believe it might be different for this truck, in that it uses the fill plug for fluid check. Even still, at 167-176F, a few drips came out of the fluid check plug, but that's it. I went with it.

Tightened everything down, ensured no leaks, took for test drive, and was amazed at the smoothness of shifting. It's almost like when I first bought my truck.

The old transmission fluid was black, and stunk. There was no metal in the fluid, nor in the pan (other than a tiny bit of fuzz on the magnets, which is typical). It looked like normal transmission maintenance.

Job took me 12 hours, but that's because I took my time to ensure everything was done to the letter. I'm happy.

What year truck,engine & was it the 10speed trans?/ thanks