2018 Yukon SLE - Warranty about to expire

[mkbowers99]

Hello guys,
I just purchased a 2018 Yukon SLE with 33K miles on it. First time buying an American SUV, used to own Hondas and Nissans. Gotta say I am loving this truck and the high vantage point. The warranty is set to expire soon so was wondering if there were somethings I need to get checked out before I am on my own as far as repairs go.

 

[OR VietVet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

The owner's manual should lay out what should have been done at the 30k miles maintenance and the CarFax that was likely supplied should have said if that was done, that is if the place that did the work reported it. If the previous owner did it, the CarFax may not show that. If there is some uncertainty, then the 30k maintenance should be done.

 

[Miami-Dade]

Welcome from Miami Beach! Nice Yukon!

I would have a good independent mechanic check your Yukon on the rack from top to bottom. Make sure to get the A/C Condenser checked out. If it is the original one it will have to be eventually replaced. Was a major issue in the 2015-2017 Yukon-Tahoe. Mine went out at 80K miles but most went out before that.

 

[ivin74]

Have your drivers seat checked out, the mechanism gets loose. It's a 1200 dollar part if you have to pay the bill.
Wife's Tahoe with 32k miles on it is in the shop getting fixed.

 

[mkbowers99]

Thanks guys! I appreciate the guidance. We just went to Flagstaff from Phoenix to show the kiddos snow. It was a 6 hour round trip and the Yukon drove beautifully.

 

[calif phil]

I would shop for an extended warranty before your bumper 2 bumper runs out.


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[Tahoe14]

If you decide to buy an extended warranty shop for on line Chevy Dealers who sell at a discounted price. There is a thread on this site that lists several Dealers. Stick with the GMEPP warranty. Good luck.

 

[Fatrusty]

http://www.knappmotors.com/

extended warranties GMEPP

 

[petethepug]

Seals, not the ones that eat fish [emoji3]

Rear main seal and all the places where the drive train fluids are contained.

* Cracked plastic radiator & overflow tanks.
* Oil or ANY residue on a/c lines or components.
* Rear (or both if AWD/4WD) axle backing plate seals. Discs must be replaced to inspect.
* Steering boots
* Interior button surface wear.

Have an Indi mechanic scan for codes. Document them. Have the dealer verify and find same codes and document again. Dealers typically clear the codes if they don’t want to be bothered with the warranty repair if it’s not a slam dunk job that pays.

I’ve had to ask a VW dealer three times to document that they added a/c refrigerant 3x. They finally hand wrote it on all three copies. Ultimately the car had a leak in the condenser at the dealer simply by visual inspection. They denied the oil residue was culprit. When I returned with a GE H-10 leak detector they had no idea I was a commercial HVAC apprentice. I made the service manager watch the leak detector howl at the oil residue on the condenser. Humble pie was served.

Ultimately, new management had fired almost all the seasoned service techs and advisors. Nobody cared anymore even when a paper trail forced them to be accountable. That dealer still sucks 15 years later.



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