So I got the 2/4 kit from Tony for my 2017 SLT. Rear autoride, non autoride in the front. Put the rear springs and shock extenders on, went to put the fronts on and realized half way through they were 2wd spindles. Long story short, I got ahold of belltech and they sent me the correct 4wd ones a few weeks later. After installed, I measured a 3/4 drop center hub to fender. Couldn't get ahold of Tony, so called belltech. I've looked at EVERYTHING, or so I believe. Loosened control arms, set it back on the ground with end links disconnected, it will NOT go lower than 3/4". Again, long story short, they're perplexed. So they offer me drop struts to combine with the 3/4 drop I'm getting from the spindles to reach 1 3/4. I say the whole reason I got the spindles was for a smooth ride, and they agree to send me another set in case they were defective. They're on backorder so I waited 6 weeks. New ones come in, do the same thing. I measured and used digital calipers to compare the 2 sets. Pretty much identical. They even measured correctly against the factory ones with the hub moved higher on the spindle to lower the vehicle. So back to the drawing board. They again, agree to still send me the adjustable drop struts. If anyone is wondering by this point, belltech definitely did what they could for me. So the drop struts show up. I install with the correct amount of rings for a 1" drop and install with the drop spindles. End up with 3/4" AGAIN. remove spindles, remove springs, remove ALL rings. Reinstall struts with no rings, factory spindles. Get 1.5" drop when it should have been 3" with no rings. I made a tough decision and removed the struts and put the front end back to stock because I have no idea what's going on up there and don't want to be riding around like that without answers. Can anyone think of anything I haven't yet?
2017 Yukon will not lower
- Thread starter Yoocon77
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2018
- Posts
- 10,270
- Reaction score
- 14,870
Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
I cannot personally help you with your question; however, other members on this Forum that are much more knowledgeable than me will chime in.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
I cannot personally help you with your question; however, other members on this Forum that are much more knowledgeable than me will chime in.
THarber
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2021
- Posts
- 307
- Reaction score
- 284
How do you have auto ride on the rear and not front? Did you change the rear ride height rods? Have you driven it at all or just dropping it and measuring? When I lowered mine, I had to drive it a bit to get everything to settle in.
So my yukon came with the smooth ride package. Autoride shocks in the back and regular struts in the front. Adjusted the links in the back. The back sits fine and where it should. I've taken the spindles on and off 5 or 6 times between trying the new parts and just to take before and after pictures for belltechs engineering department and driven the car a short distance each time to account for settling parts. It's exhausting taking the front end apart that many times just to see that it didn't work. There was a thread I believe on here that I rear 2 other people had this same issue and don't believe there was ever a reason found. Other than that, belltech is saying they've never heard of this before. I'm pretty well mechanically inclined, but this really doesn't make any sense. Nothing is binding or hitting when I drive it with the drop spindles on.
THarber
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2021
- Posts
- 307
- Reaction score
- 284
What happens if you leave out the struts? Does it drop the the ground?
Tim
Tim
THarber
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2021
- Posts
- 307
- Reaction score
- 284
Going to just throw this out there. I don't see a 2" drop in the spindles you posted. It looks like 1/2 to 3/4 inch to me. I asked about what it does with no struts because then that would eliminate anything binding. If it lays on the frame, then you know its in the strut assembly or springs. If you are absolutely sure you have the right struts and springs, I'd put it back together and drive it and see if it settles.
Tim
Tim
I'm fairly certain they're correct springs and struts. But even if they weren't, they should have absolutely no impact on a drop spindle. I got exactly 3/4" out of the 2" spindle. Next time I get in there to mess around I'll try lowering it a bit without a strut and spring in it to see what happens, but I highly doubt I'll get binding. Every time I messed with the lowering kit it was driven on, every single time, a few blocks to rule out settling because I knew that's the first thing anyone would say. Belltech said to use the drop spindles for the 3/4 drop, and the drop struts for the other 1", but riding on a wild ass setup like that with a 1.5 drop instead of a 3 doesn't make me too inclined to put my family in it lol. I lowered all my vehicles ever since my first truck qhen I was 15, but maybe this one got me beat lol.
Wolfpack79
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2020
- Posts
- 21
- Reaction score
- 21
Did you ever figure out what was going on with your Yukon?
Wolfpack79
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2020
- Posts
- 21
- Reaction score
- 21
That’s frustrating. Hopefully you’ll get it figured out soon
olyelr
Full Access Member
How much were the spindles supposed to drop the vehicle? What is the distance that the hub bearing holes got raised on the spindle compared to the original units?
How in the hell can the vehicle not drop the same distance that the hub was raised on the spindle? I completely understand your frustration….it is indeed mind boggling.
I just installed mine a week ago. I have a 2015 SLT 2wd. I got just 1.75 inches. I decided to do the 3 inch out back and the spindles in the front. I work at a dealership (honda) and when we pulled it off the lift it looked like not much and had happened. At that point it was level front to rear but I was expecting a rack from back to front we drove around the parking lot. We noticed the toe setting was really toed in (like being pigeon-toed). So we adjusted the alignment and then it went down 1.75 inches after driving. Hope this helps.
like one past post mentioned with both spindles removes and put next to each other is the cv shaft hole offset from one another? If the answer is yes then you will get your drop. I don't understand if the holes are at different positions then how can you NOT get a drop. Now it is confirmed the 2" drop from the spindle really only gets you 1.5"ish.
Plus post picks of your findings
Plus post picks of your findings
I guess I never saw this last response, but yes, the holes were about 2" higher than stock so it absolutely should have lowered. I never did figure out what the problem was, and almost always wish the kit worked when I walk by my car. The ONLY thing I can possibly think, is that if I got another set of drop spindles again (I sold the original ones from this post), and installed them, then loosened both lower control arms, then maybe it would drop. I never did that because I didn't want to screw up the alignment and not be able to go exactly back to stock if I had to put the stock control arms right back on if it didn't drop, because It's a daily driver. The only thing I can think is maybe the control arm bushings were binding, or basically were pre-loaded and not allowing it to drop, since the drop spindles or the belltech adjustable drop shocks with the removable rings gave me the same 3/4 inch drop.
olyelr
Full Access Member
With nothing changing with the control arms at all essentially (just the wheel mounting surface was raised on the knuckle), i wouldnt think that would be the cause at all…that still thinks everything is stock/factory.
It still blows my mind! Makes no sense!
Similar threads
