2011 Yukon XL SLT baterry dies

[headnorth]

While listening to radio during tailgates, etc. with all power off (domes, headlights, etc.) my battery dies after 10-20 mins and usually have to jump it. Dealer connected it to some tester for two hours, checked alternator, etc. and found nothing wrong. I've never had this problem with any other vehicle. Where can I find TSB's? Is anybody else having anything similar to this occur? Thanks!

 

[Peaches]

Have them check your cables leading from the fuse box. You may have a loose connection somewhere, I just spent 2 weeks with mine in the shop and it died really freakin' fast, just like that. It got much more serious than just dying though.

Just a thought and something to look into.

 

[HOE-N-IT]

Welcome to the club. This is a common complaint with the NNBS trucks. I have gotten the "battery low, start engine" message many times on my 2011 Tahoe when turning on the key after having the doors open just cleaning the interior etc. I also don't drive my truck every day and it will sit for a week or two and it will barely start. A couple of weeks ago I was packing for a trip with the doors open and closed sevaral times and a number of minutes each time. It had also sat for a week. When I got ready to go it wouldn't start.

Just yesterday I installed the dual battery setup just like in the police Tahoe and 2 new higher capacity AGM batteries. I now have about 2 1/2 times the battery power I did before. I didn't do the isolator setup as I didn't feel I needed it but if you do a lot of tailgating or use electric coolers etc you may want a dual setup with an isolator.

I found the exact GM battery cables that come on the police tahoe on Amazon.com for a little over $100 which is about half the price from a dealer.

 

[NASTY GM]

The factory battery is a joke for a SUV. Purchase a good battery and be done with it.

 

[AmazinglySmooth]

I had my negative battery cable replaced because of excessive voltage drop during cranking. The dealer can test for it.

 

[domin8]

Welcome to the club. This is a common complaint with the NNBS trucks. I have gotten the "battery low, start engine" message many times on my 2011 Tahoe when turning on the key after having the doors open just cleaning the interior etc. I also don't drive my truck every day and it will sit for a week or two and it will barely start. A couple of weeks ago I was packing for a trip with the doors open and closed sevaral times and a number of minutes each time. It had also sat for a week. When I got ready to go it wouldn't start.

Just yesterday I installed the dual battery setup just like in the police Tahoe and 2 new higher capacity AGM batteries. I now have about 2 1/2 times the battery power I did before. I didn't do the isolator setup as I didn't feel I needed it but if you do a lot of tailgating or use electric coolers etc you may want a dual setup with an isolator.

I found the exact GM battery cables that come on the police tahoe on Amazon.com for a little over $100 which is about half the price from a dealer.

Would you mind sharing the info?

 

[HOE-N-IT]

Would you mind sharing the info?

GM part #25825642 positive battery cable. http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-25825...=UTF8&qid=1345638137&sr=8-1&keywords=25825642

GM part #25876896 negative battery cable. http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-25876...=UTF8&qid=1345638137&sr=8-2&keywords=25825642

GM part #14005061 battery hold down. local GM dealer about $5

GM part #11509853 hold down bolt. local GM dealer about $1

10 x 1.5 x 25 mm bolt and washer - Lowes

This is all that is needed plus batteries. The positive battery cable routes under the motor at the front of the oil pan near some other cables and includes clips to attach it to a plastic piece that already has holes in it for the cable clips. It then attaches to the starter on the same stud as the main battery. I attached the negative cable to the motor at a threaded hole in the head near the alternator with the bolt from Lowes.
Getting a wrench on the lug nut at the starter is the only difficult part. It is REALLY hard to see and get to due to the frame etc. You will need ramps or access to a lift.

 

[02Lightning]

I didn't do the isolator setup as I didn't feel I needed it but if you do a lot of tailgating or use electric coolers etc you may want a dual setup with an isolator.

What is the isolator setup and what is the purpose?
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42779

 

[AZSCTACO]

I went through 3 factory batteries the first year I had my Tahoe. Went with a Duralast battery after that and lasted 3 years in the Arizona heat. The factory batteries are flawed...

 

[HOE-N-IT]

What is the isolator setup and what is the purpose?
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42779

A battery isolator is used with 2 (or more) batteries in parallel and the isolator is wired between the positive connections. It is used so that both batteries can be charged by the alternator but otherwise normally keeps the batteries isolated so that the one that is being used will not drain the other.

It is most typically used where the second or auxillary battery is a deep cycle type used to power accesseries such as inverters, winches, snow plows, campers etc and not drain the starting battery. It can also be confugured to be a hot standby to jump start the starting battery if the starting battery is at risk of occasionally being run down. If the starting battery is run down often this will GREATLY reduce the life of a starting battery.

Because there are so many types, brands, applications and configurations of battery isolators I would suggest a google search to learn more if you are interested in an isolator.

I wanted just 2 batteries wired in parallel since I don't use auxillary equipment and wanted to have more battery power on hand to make it less likely that I will run down 2 batteries with parasitic drain. With 2 batteries, each will not normally be discharged as deeply so they will last longer.

 

[tito teeds]

Has the battery issue been resolved for 2012 models?

 

[02Lightning]

A battery isolator is used with 2 (or more) batteries in parallel and the isolator is wired between the positive connections. It is used so that both batteries can be charged by the alternator but otherwise normally keeps the batteries isolated so that the one that is being used will not drain the other.

It is most typically used where the second or auxillary battery is a deep cycle type used to power accesseries such as inverters, winches, snow plows, campers etc and not drain the starting battery. It can also be confugured to be a hot standby to jump start the starting battery if the starting battery is at risk of occasionally being run down. If the starting battery is run down often this will GREATLY reduce the life of a starting battery.

Because there are so many types, brands, applications and configurations of battery isolators I would suggest a google search to learn more if you are interested in an isolator.

I wanted just 2 batteries wired in parallel since I don't use auxillary equipment and wanted to have more battery power on hand to make it less likely that I will run down 2 batteries with parasitic drain. With 2 batteries, each will not normally be discharged as deeply so they will last longer.

Thank you for the explanation, do you have any pictures showing the routing of the wiring you ran? I am thinking of doing this and that would help alot, because I would like it to look all stock. I assume all the parts listed would be the same for my 2008?

 

[HOE-N-IT]

Thank you for the explanation, do you have any pictures showing the routing of the wiring you ran? I am thinking of doing this and that would help alot, because I would like it to look all stock. I assume all the parts listed would be the same for my 2008?

I didn't take any pictures but below is a link to an Escalade forum where a lot of guys have done this. The link is for page 9 of the thread and has pictures if you scroll down. The second battery cable is the less shiney looking wire loom that routes down from the battery directly below the power steering pump and is the bottom wire in the picture at the oil pan. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...t-esv-forum-2007/130849-second-battery-9.html

I don't care for the Optima batteries the guy used because the posts are in the middle and the cables don't fit well on the posts. I got 2 Diehard Advanced Gold Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries group 48 that fit perfectly. http://www.sears.com/diehard-advanc...p-02850748000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

The AGM's are expensive but have more power and tolerate being discharged better. The Advanced Gold Diehard is made by East Penn Mfg (Deka) and you can catch them on sale for $45 off every couple of weeks on the Sears site and pick them up in your local store the same day from the store stock. Autozone also has the exact same battery.

If you do add the second battery be careful when connecting the cable to the starter lug. The lug and bolt are brass (for conductivity) which is a soft metal. Do not over tighten and strip the lug or your screwed. Yes the parts will fit all NNBS trucks.

I agree with you about keeping it looking stock and also using GM parts. Then if you have a future electrical problem you won't have any issues with a dealer and if under warranty, you won't have to teach them the law about faulting something on aftermarket parts without proof.

---------- Post added at 04:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:45 PM ----------

Has the battery issue been resolved for 2012 models?

No. GM doesn't consider it a problem and it's not for most people who use their vehicle at least a few times a week and don't listen to the radio for long or let their kids watch DVD's without the engine running.

 

[GM Customer Service]

Has the battery issue been resolved for 2012 models?

tito teeds,

Are you experiencing a battery issue? If so, please feel free to PM me with your VIN and the details of the problem.

Louis
GM Customer Service

 

[02Lightning]

Ok, just did the dual battery setup, if I disconnect the main batter and leave the extra battery hooked up should I be able to start the car? I tried this and although I didn't try to start the car none of my dash lights came on. I hooked the main battery back up and all was good, both batteries were carging at 14.89v.

 

[SunlitComet]

if you guys who are experiencing this power loss have rear heated seats. the module for them does have a software update for it because even after vehicle shuts down it keeps the serial bus active drawing a continuous 4 amps from batt till it drops down to 3 volts. it has been an issues with gm suv with the rear seat heaters since 2007. having doors open can cause similar issues with faster battery drain. remember when you open a door it is not just a light running anymore it is the Body control module and maybe every other module that interfaces with it that monitors other things. that adds up quickly.

 

[HOE-N-IT]

Ok, just did the dual battery setup, if I disconnect the main batter and leave the extra battery hooked up should I be able to start the car? I tried this and although I didn't try to start the car none of my dash lights came on. I hooked the main battery back up and all was good, both batteries were carging at 14.89v.

Well, I didn't try to start the car or see if my dash lights worked with just the 2nd battery but I can't see why they wouldn't. The positives are connected together at the starter and both negatives are connected to the motor so the 2nd battery will be connected to the vehicles electrical system. I can't imagine a diode is wired in the cable to the starter from the main battery.

If your sure you connected it to the same lug on the starter as the main battery and it won't power the vehicle electrics I'll go disconnect the negative from my main battery and check.

BTW while not related to the above did you get 2 new batteries?

---------- Post added at 06:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 PM ----------

if you guys who are experiencing this power loss have rear heated seats. the module for them does have a software update for it because even after vehicle shuts down it keeps the serial bus active drawing a continuous 4 amps from batt till it drops down to 3 volts. it has been an issues with gm suv with the rear seat heaters since 2007. having doors open can cause similar issues with faster battery drain. remember when you open a door it is not just a light running anymore it is the Body control module and maybe every other module that interfaces with it that monitors other things. that adds up quickly.

I do have heated rear seats. I have a 2011 so if its been happening since 2007 I would think I have the update but who knows. Do you have a TSB reference. If I mention this to my dealer without giving them a TSB number I'll just get a lights on nobody home look.

 

[Goodinblack]

tito teeds,

Are you experiencing a battery issue? If so, please feel free to PM me with your VIN and the details of the problem.

Louis
GM Customer Service

 

[Regency]

Same ole same old

 

[SunlitComet]

09-08-50-17b. it has been revised once at least to add other vehicles perhaps it has been updated again. ant any rate it firmly recommends that even if the dealer cannot duplicate the problem they, regardless, should check for revised calibration on TIS2WEB.

hope this can help.