Hello everyone I am in the same boat as lots of other people apparently where my driver's door makes a clunk when I try to close it. I am going to along with the help of my son swap the lower hinge assembly. Here is my question, Chevy dealership wants $230 Amazon wants $106 and then there's one on Amazon for $29 that's an aftermarket. I'm almost 70 and I am fully aware of you get what you pay for LOL, but in this scenario what do you guys recommend? And does anyone familiar with any kind of how-to video that sort of explains the shortcuts to transferring the old alignment to the new alignment of the hinge so your seams are equal
2011 tahoe ds lower hinge
- Thread starter CL2011
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solli5pack
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You could go with this for $40 and repair the hinge. I have them on both my trucks and they work well and are greaseable. A little bit of a pain to install though.
petethepug
Michael
Both of my front hinges groan and pop after driving in the rain for a week or two. A little kroil *********** lube undoes them back to new.
The p/s upper hinge took 5-6 applications of kroil before it finally acted normal. I need to clean them off with a rag and apply a OEM type hinge lube now that they’re back to normal.
Unless you’ve seen an unusual amount of sag in the hinge and the alignment is off, use a penetrating lube until they free up and then use a marine grade grease and they’ll be good for another 15 years.
The p/s upper hinge took 5-6 applications of kroil before it finally acted normal. I need to clean them off with a rag and apply a OEM type hinge lube now that they’re back to normal.
Unless you’ve seen an unusual amount of sag in the hinge and the alignment is off, use a penetrating lube until they free up and then use a marine grade grease and they’ll be good for another 15 years.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Most importantly, try to get the lube on the shaft of the roller and not on the outside of the roller. With lube on the outside of the roller it will cause the part that rides on it to slide and cause the creaking/popping noise. Let the roller do what it's supposed to do
solli5pack
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With mine the rollers actually deformed for some reason causing the hinge arm to pop every time it hit the flat spot on the roller.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Will the roller still roll and just have a flat spot on the outside?
If so, try rolling it so the flat spot is 180*.
I've found wedging a large flat screwdriver between the body side of the hinge and the hinge arm that's spring loaded with the cutouts, you can pry the spring loaded arm away from the roller and spin it with your other hand.
Thank you very much
I received my door hinge the other day now I'm just trying to figure out how to devise a plan to put the new hinge in alignment where the old one was so that my door strikes the correct way when I shut it. In my mind I'm going to put blue tape at the top and bottom of the door and make a black mark on each side of the seam and then maybe take a measurement from the ground to the bottom of the door. A couple videos I watched shows me that apparently the bolts go into a hole where you can't mess up the alignment they're apparently is some play
petethepug
Michael
Did you ever use Kroil or something similar to remove the krud built up on the bar and slider?
I took my 09 to to a highline auto body guy to replace the p/s lower hinge and he refused to do it. I wd-40 & 10w-40 that hinge for 2 weeks. Got nuth’n.
When the truck went back to the same shop a few months later, he kroil’d it for a few days. Sure as ship, it was like buttah after 15 years of TX desert silt felt off.
I took my 09 to to a highline auto body guy to replace the p/s lower hinge and he refused to do it. I wd-40 & 10w-40 that hinge for 2 weeks. Got nuth’n.
When the truck went back to the same shop a few months later, he kroil’d it for a few days. Sure as ship, it was like buttah after 15 years of TX desert silt felt off.
mikez71
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Please let us know how the hinge replacement goes!
My roller was like Solli5pack's, where it was flat spotted and would pop everytime. I pried out the spring to stop the noise, and bought a replacement hinge.
But after seeing Dorman repair kit, I will likely get that instead of painting and installing the new hinge I have.
My roller was like Solli5pack's, where it was flat spotted and would pop everytime. I pried out the spring to stop the noise, and bought a replacement hinge.
But after seeing Dorman repair kit, I will likely get that instead of painting and installing the new hinge I have.
Well it's Monday and I can jump up and down and click my old bones together. My mechanic son came up to visit us from his Air Force Base and he knocked out that door hinge in 30 minutes. This again is a 2011 Tahoe driver side lower door mount. I bought it from RockAuto for $125. I was a little skeptical about getting it off Amazon for 24 bucks. Anyway a second pair of hands helped and I held the door so he could take the lower Mount off. But be warned, the new Mount shifts in the closed position and you need it in the open position. It was a devil to try and force the hinge open on the bench using a vise that spring must have some serious tension. What we did was we mounted it on one side of the door frame then took a pry bar and put it in the door Mount and pushed towards the inside door panel and it finally with lots of pushing snapped into the open position. That allowed us to put the door side bolts in. It works good as new now I am going to spray paint it. This is not a one-person job. One person needs to manipulate the driver's door or whatever door you're working on, so the other person can put the bolt in by hand and find the threaded hole.
