2009 LTZ 41,600 miles totaled. Ins co won't NADA

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geodavky

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My one owner, 41600 mile LTZ was totaled when the other driver ran a red light. State Farm won't give me NADA book for it. Book is for a "clean" car and I think mine is better than clean-- always garaged and not one single door ding or any damage history (not even a scratch).
Any help appreciated in getting full value for the vehicle you had no intention of selling would be greatly appreciated.
 

PivotalRex

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My one owner, 41600 mile LTZ was totaled when the other driver ran a red light. State Farm won't give me NADA book for it. Book is for a "clean" car and I think mine is better than clean-- always garaged and not one single door ding or any damage history (not even a scratch).
Any help appreciated in getting full value for the vehicle you had no intention of selling would be greatly appreciated.

You can always try arbitration. Your best way of handling arbitration would be to hire a lawyer (you don't have to but you'll make a better case with one). Here's where you have to decide if the cost is worth it. Not sure how off they are on the number. A few hundred to a couple of thousand...personally I would grin and bear it. Anything more substantial and I would go the route of arbitration.
 

Blueinterceptor

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What are they offering vs nada value? Is the difference because of your low mileage vs the 100,000 miles it should have?
 

iamdub

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This your insurance or the at-fault driver's insurance?

Screw it- take their offer then sell us some parts to cover the difference. I call dibs on the motor, trans, gauge cluster, shifter, dash and center console cupholder insert
 

17Tahoe

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Just went through a total on one of our cars. I asked for the valuation and GEICO said they don't have to disclose if the value is over 15k. Did end up seeing what they valued it at after they cut me the final check though in the claim file. Was valued way more than I expected. Hope it's the same for you.


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JayceeP

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EDIT: Correction section now
 
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Twn7575

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My one owner, 41600 mile LTZ was totaled when the other driver ran a red light. State Farm won't give me NADA book for it. Book is for a "clean" car and I think mine is better than clean-- always garaged and not one single door ding or any damage history (not even a scratch).
Any help appreciated in getting full value for the vehicle you had no intention of selling would be greatly appreciated.
Look for comparable vehicles for sale in your area. That's how most insurance companies value your car. If you find any that are more than their offer they will most likely consider them. The values listed on NADA or KBB are arbitrary. Your car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it so comparable sales are much more accurate.


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MidwestMike

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Prices of what people are ASKING for stuff in your area mean nothing, you need to see what stuff actually SELLS for.

Put some items in your eBay list and go back later to see what the actual sale price was.

These nuts on Craigslist asking high prices gets people thinking it is realistic. I had some old tables that people were asking between $300 and $3000 on CL. I ended up giving them away for free.

My statement is: Just because you see someone asking $100 for a coat hanger on Craigslist doesn't mean you have 3 grand of coat hangers in your closet. :)

(should be done today, but my 02 Tahoe with 80k was posted, but the price I'm taking is not what the price is in the ad.... Hard to figure out a starting point, I saw them for $1500 up to $8900 for 150k "low mile" vehicles that dealers were posting. )
 

Nashoba

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Everyone knows that MidwestMike. Twn7575 was referring to the sales prices. We all know hardly anyone gets asking price, unless they are a good price. My neighbor just sold his 65,000 mile 2009 Silverado extended cab for exactly what he asked, $7500. Sometimes asking and sale price are accurate.
 

ranger8996

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Just went through this last month when my 2011 Ford F150 Platinum that I bought new got totaled. I had 118,000 miles on it and my truck was exceptionally clean. I had brand new Michelin tires, new brakes and rotors all the way around and my vehicle had no dents, just a few rock chips and scratches...interior was immaculate. I was concerned that the at fault drivers insurance would not treat me fairly because my truck had high miles even though I always kept it in the garage and took very good care of it. As the other guys have said they are supposed to pay you based on what it would cost you to buy a similar in your market. Now the adjuster did note that my vehicle was exceptional and even with the high mileage penalty of close to $3000.00 they still valued my vehicle at over $25,000. you need to fight for fair market value for your vehicle.
 

HockeyRandall53

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This your insurance or the at-fault driver's insurance?

Screw it- take their offer then sell us some parts to cover the difference. I call dibs on the motor, trans, gauge cluster, shifter, dash and center console cupholder insert
i like your thinking. lol
 

Bruizza

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Not sure how this turned out for you but I went through this recently too. Insurance started at about 4k more than I owed on that truck. By the time we were done negotiating they gave 12k more than I owed on the truck. Took A LOT of phone calls, arguing and yes finding vehicles in my area that were for sale at a more realistic price. They will also claim that some aftermarket items you put on the vehicle are "preference". I was able to prove that even though they were preference items they added value etc....
 

Rocket Man

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This all depends on the laws in your state. Every state has a set of rules that apply when an insurance company totals a car. And uninsured driver claims have different rules than collision claims. You never mentioned the specifics of your claim. Did the at-fault drivers insurance pay or were they uninsured? I just went through a claim with my Harley which is a bit different but gives you an idea of what happens if you just accept what they offer. It was the other drivers fault, who had no license or insurance so it fell under my uninsured motorist coverage. It was a complete custom bagger 2014 Street Glide but I only had liability. My insurance had their in-house guy look at it and offered me $21k. I bitched and sent them receipts totalling $20k in add on parts and paint. They offered $27k. I hired an appraiser that cost me $350 and he valued it at $43,600. They hired their own independent appraiser and he valued it at $42,500. I settled for their guys value. And since the appraised value was higher than their last offer they had to pay for my appraiser so they cut me a check for $42,500 plus $350. Deductible was waived. Quite a difference from the $21k they initially offered.
 

Nashoba

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Don't we make a choice to be notified when certain threads are commented on? Perhaps the OP did not know to do it? if we have to, that is.
 

Goodinblack

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This all depends on the laws in your state. Every state has a set of rules that apply when an insurance company totals a car. And uninsured driver claims have different rules than collision claims. You never mentioned the specifics of your claim. Did the at-fault drivers insurance pay or were they uninsured? I just went through a claim with my Harley which is a bit different but gives you an idea of what happens if you just accept what they offer. It was the other drivers fault, who had no license or insurance so it fell under my uninsured motorist coverage. It was a complete custom bagger 2014 Street Glide but I only had liability. My insurance had their in-house guy look at it and offered me $21k. I bitched and sent them receipts totalling $20k in add on parts and paint. They offered $27k. I hired an appraiser that cost me $350 and he valued it at $43,600. They hired their own independent appraiser and he valued it at $42,500. I settled for their guys value. And since the appraised value was higher than their last offer they had to pay for my appraiser so they cut me a check for $42,500 plus $350. Deductible was waived. Quite a difference from the $21k they initially offered.
Amazing.
 

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