1st Tahoe/ 1st Build. 2013 PPV, Machined/ Blueprinted Ls 346 c.i.

[SleepThe5th]

Hello everybody, my name is Jacob. I am new to the Tahoe world, as well as forums in general. So if this was posted in the wrong place, my apologies. Posted it here because I have questions about everything in general. I recently bought a 2013 PPV Tahoe. I also just bought a new engine for it as well. Current stock 5.3 has a flat spot in the cam and with what I'd like to do with this build, it financially made sense to go this route.
-Current setup is just a stock 2013 PPV Tahoe with DOD/AFM Delete (picture below)

-I am putting a brand new lm7 5.3 gen 3 in it. It has been completely machined, balanced and blue printed.
-bored and honed to 346 c.i.
-block deck has been milled
-ARP rod bolts
-balanced crank
-meiling high volume oil pump
-sloppy stage 2 turbo cam
-new hypertuenic pistons
-rings gapped for boost or nitrous
-main studs
-fresh bearings throughout
-.02 main bearing clearances
(sloppy stays for now until I put a BTR stage 4 in)

I am looking for any advice in general regarding preventative maintenance during the engine swap I will be doing in 2-3 weeks. As well as what type of exhaust you guys have found performs the best. Anything I might not think to do since this is my 1st Tahoe/ 1st build. I will definitely take pictures & videos during the swap process to keep you guys updated. Thank you everyone, I hope to hear from some of you soon!

 

[Dantheman1540]

This will be an awesome build! Really excited to follow along! Heres a few things you will need to figure out with the motor swap.

-Tuning because with the cam and bigger displacement the factory tune wont work.

-Air Fuel ratio gauge I suggest an AEM Uego because you can plug it straight into the OBD2 port and read ARF on HPtuners

-Your doing a gen 3 5.3 which has a different reluctor wheel teeth count. The gen 3 has a 24tooth and the Gen 4 like what you have now is 58 tooth. Pretty sure there is a sensor adapter or something you can buy.

-Knock sensor location for the Gen3 is in the valley cover where Gen 4 is on the side of the block.

-Exhaust is really up to you if you go turbo later then you want either dual 3" or single 4"


I'm sure I am missing stuff but this is what came to mind right away.

 

[SleepThe5th]

This will be an awesome build! Really excited to follow along! Heres a few things you will need to figure out with the motor swap.

-Tuning because with the cam and bigger displacement the factory tune wont work.

-Air Fuel ratio gauge I suggest an AEM Uego because you can plug it straight into the OBD2 port and read ARF on HPtuners

-Your doing a gen 3 5.3 which has a different reluctor wheel teeth count. The gen 3 has a 24tooth and the Gen 4 like what you have now is 58 tooth. Pretty sure there is a sensor adapter or something you can buy.

-Knock sensor location for the Gen3 is in the valley cover where Gen 4 is on the side of the block.

-Exhaust is really up to you if you go turbo later then you want either dual 3" or single 4"


I'm sure I am missing stuff but this is what came to mind right away.

Thanks for the reply Dan. I'm definitely going to look into what all I need before I drop it in, so any information is appreciated! I wasn't aware of what you mentioned so that definitely helps.

 

[SleepThe5th]

Hello everybody, my name is Jacob. I am new to the Tahoe world, as well as forums in general. So if this was posted in the wrong place, my apologies. Posted it here because I have questions about everything in general. I recently bought a 2014 PPV Tahoe. I also just bought a new engine for it as well. Current stock 5.3 has a flat spot in the cam and with what I'd like to do with this build, it financially made sense to go this route.
-Current setup is just a stock 2014 PPV Tahoe with DOD/AFM Delete (picture below)

-I am putting a brand new lm7 5.3 gen 3 in it. It has been completely machined, balanced and blue printed.
-bored and honed to 346 c.i.
-block deck has been milled
-ARP rod bolts
-balanced crank
-meiling high volume oil pump
-sloppy stage 2 turbo cam
-new hypertuenic pistons
-rings gapped for boost or nitrous
-main studs
-fresh bearings throughout
-.02 main bearing clearances
(sloppy stays for now until I put a BTR stage 4 in)

I am looking for any advice in general regarding preventative maintenance during the engine swap I will be doing in 2-3 weeks. As well as what type of exhaust you guys have found performs the best. Anything I might not think to do since this is my 1st Tahoe/ 1st build. I will definitely take pictures & videos during the swap process to keep you guys updated. Thank you everyone, I hope to hear from some of you soon!View attachment 244818

Update: It's a 2013 Tahoe, the totaled one we purchased for parts was a 2014, my bad on that. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I'm not a guru when it comes to the GMT 900 model trucks. Which is 2007-2014 I believe. So I don't know if theres any differences between a 2013 or 14 that would apply here. I'm sure someone better in that area will chime in. But the motor being from a gen 3 truck means it's from a 1999-2006 GMT800 model. That's why there are so many little differences. However they can all be overcome and the motor will still work in your year truck.

What is the overall goal of the truck? Single turbo making 500whp? Daily driver? Drag only?

Just trying to get an idea so we can all tailor our advice to whichever path you want to take. There are some serious fast tahoes and smart people on the forums we are glad to your here!

 

[iamdub]

Does the motor still have the original crank and reluctor or did they swap in a Gen4 crank and/or reloctor? Last I checked, there was an adapter (Lingenfelter TRG-002) to run a Gen4 on Gen3 PCM, but not the other way around. Knock sensors and cam position sensors are in different locations, too. Those are easily overcome. The big issue is if you'll have to take apart the bottom end to either swap the reluctor wheel or entire crankshaft with one from a Gen4.

 

[SleepThe5th]

I would say the overall goal right off the start is a daily driver with the swapped engine. I have a Ford Fusion as well, I just haven't decided if i'm selling it or not yet. Eventually I would like to get some head work done, a bigger cam..possibly a BTR Stage 4? And a single turbo setup. I just don't have the money for all of that at the moment so I might go step by step with it.

I'm not a guru when it comes to the GMT 900 model trucks. Which is 2007-2014 I believe. So I don't know if theres any differences between a 2013 or 14 that would apply here. I'm sure someone better in that area will chime in. But the motor being from a gen 3 truck means it's from a 1999-2006 GMT800 model. That's why there are so many little differences. However they can all be overcome and the motor will still work in your year truck.

What is the overall goal of the truck? Single turbo making 500whp? Daily driver? Drag only?

Just trying to get an idea so we can all tailor our advice to whichever path you want to take. There are some serious fast tahoes and smart people on the forums we are glad to your here!

 

[Dantheman1540]

Step by step is smart let's you get each stage dialed in just right so you have less problems on the next set of upgrades. If you want to do a turbo down the road I'd just stay with the sloppy stage 2. You already have it, it's a fairly aggressive cam and every cam likes a turbo. Also if you plan on doing a turbo I'd leave the heads alone. It's easier and typically cheaper to add 1 or 2 PSI of boost in the tune with a turbo than getting head work done and 1 or 2 psi will likely net you more power.

Since your looking at turbo kits I highly suggest Trick performance. I tossed around the turbo idea for a year or so before I bought my magnusson and I had decided if I go turbo it would be a trick kit for sure. I even went up to his house and checked out all his kits. He is extremely knowledgeable, his customer service is fantastic and he really stands by his kits.

Lastly that big of a cam with an auto trans you will likely need a converter. I didn't see you mention one anywhere. I'm not the guy to try and tell you what converter because I dont have any autos but theres ton of way smarter people than me on here that can help you.

 

[khenry]

You wont be able to boost or nitrous with thos pistons safely.

 

[Dantheman1540]

You wont be able to boost or nitrous with thos pistons safely.

I beg to differ I ran a completely stock 4.8 on 16-19psi for 2 years and 25k miles. Only pulled to replace with a bigger motor. It was roots blown boost which is the harshest and I did not gap the rings.

Is it ideal? No probably not but if he feeds it good fuel, tunes it safely and doesn't try to make over 650-700hp it should be fine. Just gotta ensure all life support systems are in check and be religious about watching AFR.