1997 Suburban Steering Issues

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tommywass

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I have a 1997 K1500 Suburban. It's my wife's daily driver so I don't drive it everyday, but probably every two or three days. I got in it about a week ago and the steering was not re-centering very well after a turn or even while driving on a curve. I can let go of the steering wheel on a curve and it just keeps following the road instead of wanting to straighten out the wheels. It's strange because it's not a problem that gradually appeared. One day it was totally fine and a day or two later, we have a problem!
I decided to start with a peek underneath while having my wife rock the steering wheel back and forth. Everything looked tight. Next, I had an alignment done and the caster was fine (they fine tuned some stuff but nothing was way out of whack). I was secretly hoping the caster was way off because in my mind, the symptoms point to that. That is as far as I've gotten. I feel like I'd be throwing likely unneeded parts at it with my lack of diagnosis ideas on this one.
What else can I say about the symptoms?
-There's not much play (if any) in the steering wheel that I can tell.
-Vehicle's steering won't recenter well after turns.
-When driving straight, the vehicle has no self-correcting tendencies. There's no binding, tightness or noises/clunking in the steering.
-If you were to turn the truck within 5 or 10 degrees of center and took your hands off the wheel, it would keep going in the direction you pointed it instead of straightening out.
Thank you for any ideas you guys may have!
 

OR VietVet

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The first thing I thought about is a caster problem. That seems to have been ruled out. I would also assume the alignment tech inspected the whole front end for a sign of what is causing the problem and I was then going to say a binding ball joint and that could still be something to do with it since inspection on a rack or the feel sitting still may not show the problem but it may when under a load driving. The next best guess is that you are having an internal problem in the steering gear and while you are inspecting for that, check the frame mount of the gear for any cracking.
 
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tommywass

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Thank you for the suggestions. I have recently (maybe 6 months ago) replaced the upper ball joints because a previous alignment revealed some play. I was wondering about the lower ball joints. I'll check those for play and/or binding. Do you have any idea how I could check the steering gear?
I did go back to Firestone (where I had the alignment done) to talk about the problem. I suggested tweaking the caster a bit even though it was within spec. They told me you shouldn't tweak an alignment that is withing spec to accomplish desired driving "feel." They essentially told me it's a old vehicle so it's going to have some play. I don't want to give up that easy! I'll let you know what I find with the ball joints.
 

OR VietVet

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The print out on the alignment should show a bit of a caster lead, higher caster number, on the right side to allow for road crown. If is even or has a left lead, have a qualified alignment tech adjust accordingly. Hell, post the last alignment readings here so I can see what the tech was saying cannot be adjusted. I hate lazy techs like that. The specs could very well be where I would desire them but he should have pointed that out to you with the readout.

Checking out the steering gear is best left to a professional and I have, at a time or two over the years, disconnected the center link from the pitman arm and then can turn with engine off and on and see how smooth it is. Look at the gear mount at the frame for any frame cracks. They can be small but really show under a load.
 

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Try flushing the steering = about 2 quarts of ATF. Jack up front, turn ignition switch out of lock and move tires full left full right while its draining a few times, to feel for binding ball joints or something else. Then flush with fresh fluid, while still jacked, cycle steering full left right a few times. Try to stay off the stops while cycling steering as the relief valve will pop. if you are moving junk around in the system don't want it under relief valve ball.The steering gear adjustment on top of box may have been tightened too tight. look for wrench marks on the lock nut.Too tight and pump is on pressure all the time. Remember that shops these days don't have experience, just shit utube told them.These trucks are nearly impossible to get too much caster,usually its a chore to get enough to drive straight and hold. I believe 3-1/2 degrees is factory max recommended, 2 is ok, 1-1/2 will wander unless toe is 1/8 inch or more.Toe should be.040-.080, otherwise too much scrub,tire wear and poor gas mileage.. 1/2 degree max left right difference for crown. (0-0) for camber. With ride height at factory settings. Get out a tape measure too. I don't trust any alignment shops I've found last few years.
 
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tommywass

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Thanks for the responses guys. Here's my alignment report. Based on the chat, it sounds like 2.9 should be fine. That number is consistent with another alignment I had done about a year ago when I bought new tires. Because there's no change between the two, I doubt that's the source of my problem.

Maybe I'll try flushing the system. Also I can't see any play in the lower ball joints. I'm still scratching my head because one day it was good and the next, it was messed up. So I doubt it's some part gradually wearing out (like a ball joint). It's something that was fine one day, and broken (or clogged) the next. I considered the EVO sensor, but it doesn't seem like the symptoms match up.

Also (long shot), my wife mentioned that the cruise control stopped working at about the same time time the steering started acting weird. I can't imagine they're related, but I figured I'd mention it anyway.
 

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OR VietVet

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I always insist on a caster lead on the right front. I see it is set at even. No play in ball joints but what about binding?
 
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tommywass

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I'm not sure about binding. I was going to take the steering knuckle off yesterday to feel for any irregularities but I stopped because once I saw how much I'd have to take apart to get to it, I figured I'd just replace them. So I have to get a set before I jump in so I can get the job done all at once.
 

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You can separate the tie rods from the knuckle and turn them by hand to see if you feel a binding. Careful not to damage the grease boot when you separate. Don't use a pickle fork. Remove the nut except for the last 2-3 threads and get a BFH and hit the knuckle where the tie rod stabs in the hole and it will drop loose and then remove nut to allow it to drop all the way out.
 

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Try jacking the front and moving the tires L & R by hand, should move by hand without disconnecting steering gear. Maybe you will find something likely wrong.
 

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