07 Suburban 2500 for Towing RV

[racerx37335]

Wife and I just purchased a new 29 ft. bumper pull RV, dry weight 5300 lbs. I have a 2007 2500 Suburban and a 2013 Nissan armada as my current towing options. Was initially going with the Armada, but am now considering the Suburban. It has had the front torsion bars jacked all the way up and 20" wheels put on it. The rear is just slightly lower than the front as it has been raised with blocks to some degree. The Suburban has a 5000 lb. Firestone bag system under it that I use to keep it leveled out.

The problems: The receiver is very high with the current raised condition, and the truck rides like a log wagon compared to the stock Armada. I have put Bilstein shocks on the front that are made for the cranked up torsion bars, and they did help some. I was worried about using a weight distro hitch with ta lot of drop. I have considered putting the vehicle back to stock height and stock size wheel/tire combo. It is longer wheelbase than the Armada and I think would be more stable with the long-ish RV. What would be good wheels to set it back down on, or should I leave it up and do something else to smooth it out? Any recommendations?

 

[Geotrash]

Wife and I just purchased a new 29 ft. bumper pull RV, dry weight 5300 lbs. I have a 2007 2500 Suburban and a 2013 Nissan armada as my current towing options. Was initially going with the Armada, but am now considering the Suburban. It has had the front torsion bars jacked all the way up and 20" wheels put on it. The rear is just slightly lower than the front as it has been raised with blocks to some degree. The Suburban has a 5000 lb. Firestone bag system under it that I use to keep it leveled out.

The problems: The receiver is very high with the current raised condition, and the truck rides like a log wagon compared to the stock Armada. I have put Bilstein shocks on the front that are made for the cranked up torsion bars, and they did help some. I was worried about using a weight distro hitch with ta lot of drop. I have considered putting the vehicle back to stock height and stock size wheel/tire combo. It is longer wheelbase than the Armada and I think would be more stable with the long-ish RV. What would be good wheels to set it back down on, or should I leave it up and do something else to smooth it out? Any recommendations?

I tow a 7500 lb camper with a 2012 GMC Yukon XL Denali and the extra wheelbase over the Armada will be key. As for the suburban, you would be much better off with a proper lift on the front end, and all the way around for that matter, rather than the torsion bars cranked up.

As far as weight distributing hitches go, you won’t have any problem with a significant drop on the ball… I’ve seen lots of guys towing with lifted excursions and pickups that way, no problem.

 

[B-train]

Agreed, but I've also seen LOTS of guys towing with lifted vehicles in Chitcago-land and it doesn't look good, fun, or safe. These are 'contractors ' with their hopped up pickups FYI. They look like dopes and unprofessional with their ass on the ground and hood in the air, all the while buring off expensive low-pro tires on oversized wheels.

That being said, I think your suburban would be best at factory ride height. The motor, trans, and suspension will pull like a dream when it can actually use a weight distribution hitch properly.

 

[racerx37335]

Thanks Guys. Will it be hard to set back to factory height? How would I lift the front without the bars? If I could crank all the extra tension off the bars to the stock setting, wouldn't that give the frontend some "spring" again? Remember, it isn't waaay lifted like a monster truck. It has just had torsion bars cranked and backend lifted with some lowering (raising in this case) blocks. It has P275 60 20s on it is the main thing. Came stock with 16s but I bought like it is now. It isn't really squatted but backend is just a tiny bit lower than front. It aint like what we all laugh at No ass on the ground or anything like that. I'm thinking it isnt really lifted that much suspension-wise but moreso just because bigger tires/wheels. What do y'all think?

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks Guys. Will it be hard to set back to factory height? How would I lift the front without the bars? If I could crank all the extra tension off the bars to the stock setting, wouldn't that give the frontend some "spring" again? Remember, it isn't waaay lifted like a monster truck. It has just had torsion bars cranked and backend lifted with some lowering (raising in this case) blocks. It has P275 60 20s on it is the main thing. Came stock with 16s but I bought like it is now. It isn't really squatted but backend is just a tiny bit lower than front. It aint like what we all laugh at No ass on the ground or anything like that. I'm thinking it isnt really lifted that much suspension-wise but moreso just because bigger tires/wheels. What do y'all think?

Yeah not a crazy lift like what I think B-train may be thinking of but I agree with him it would be a better tow rig at stock height.

No idea if longer shocks were installed as part of the lift but if everything else is stock then putting the torsion bars back to the factory orientation and taking out the rear spacers should restore the ride to factory bounce and control. Fairly easy job for a shop to do.

 

[swathdiver]

Wife and I just purchased a new 29 ft. bumper pull RV, dry weight 5300 lbs. I have a 2007 2500 Suburban and a 2013 Nissan armada as my current towing options. Was initially going with the Armada, but am now considering the Suburban. It has had the front torsion bars jacked all the way up and 20" wheels put on it. The rear is just slightly lower than the front as it has been raised with blocks to some degree. The Suburban has a 5000 lb. Firestone bag system under it that I use to keep it leveled out.

The problems: The receiver is very high with the current raised condition, and the truck rides like a log wagon compared to the stock Armada. I have put Bilstein shocks on the front that are made for the cranked up torsion bars, and they did help some. I was worried about using a weight distro hitch with ta lot of drop. I have considered putting the vehicle back to stock height and stock size wheel/tire combo. It is longer wheelbase than the Armada and I think would be more stable with the long-ish RV. What would be good wheels to set it back down on, or should I leave it up and do something else to smooth it out? Any recommendations?

The 2500 is going to ride rough until she has weight on, she was built for towing.

The receiver is part of the bumper and at stock ride height we use a 5.5 to 6 inch drop to handle most 16-18" high trailer tongues.

If you want to restore the ride, put it back to stock. Cranked keys make them ride rough as do the low profile tires and Bilsteins.

Before spending a nickel on the truck, I would get the proper drop hitch, hook up the trailer and head for the scales. Once leveled out, drive her around and see how she feels and handles and take it from there.

@Matt_ @intheburbs

 

[racerx37335]

I did put Bilstein 5100s I think it is on the front. It felt like the stock shocks were topping out and pulling frontend off ground until installed. I also put a Firestone bag system and onboard compressor on the rear to help with leveling. If it wasn't for having to buy stock size 16" wheels I'd already have it back at stock height, no question. Pretty sure whoever had it before me did the bar crank to clear the 20s on front. They occasionally still hit some of the inside inner panel/ inner fenders if turned all the way.

Going to take advice and get the right height hitch and see how hard to level out before I do anything. Just hoping to figure it all out since new tire time is fast approaching. Don't want to buy more 20s and then wish id just bought 16 inch wheels and tires instead.

Thanks, everyone.

 

[swathdiver]

I did put Bilstein 5100s I think it is on the front. It felt like the stock shocks were topping out and pulling frontend off ground until installed. I also put a Firestone bag system and onboard compressor on the rear to help with leveling. If it wasn't for having to buy stock size 16" wheels I'd already have it back at stock height, no question. Pretty sure whoever had it before me did the bar crank to clear the 20s on front. They occasionally still hit some of the inside inner panel/ inner fenders if turned all the way.

Going to take advice and get the right height hitch and see how hard to level out before I do anything. Just hoping to figure it all out since new tire time is fast approaching. Don't want to buy more 20s and then wish id just bought 16 inch wheels and tires instead.

Thanks, everyone.

You don't have to change your wheel size necessarily. Just keep the height at around 32 inches which was stock. Sixteen inch wheels was an early option, most of them ran 17s, with LT265-70-17 tires, 50 psi up front and 60 psi out back in Load Range E. But a 20 inch LR E is going to be a stiff ride at stock heights.

 

[intheburbs]

Get it back to stock height, uncrank the bars, and embrace the rake.
You'll get a better ride, and your CV joints will thank you.
I always like the PY0 16" wheels.
Also, with a big drop hitch, like 10", you're losing capability because you're creating an additional torque arm and applying extra stresses to your receiver. I've read that if you have a 10" drop, you should consider your receiver ratings to be half.

Mine, as it currently sits. Tows a 35', 8600-lb trailer. And when not towing, rides beautifully. Awesome road trip cruiser.

 

[racerx37335]

You don't have to change your wheel size necessarily.

I think I will if I lower it any. It's not the top clearance that I'm worried about. It is the front and back of the tires that will hit toward the front bumper and door areas rather than the top of the wheel opening. Also, is the 32" you are referring to measured from the ground to bottom of wheel opening. If anyone knows what stock lowering bloack setup in rear should look like, I'd appreciate any help.

You all are great. Thanks for helping me.