You just need 52-53 psi to run anything less is a problem I’ve heard from 52-63 from the GM service manual the guy had asked what the minimum fuel pressure was not the entire range
If anyone has the zone part number ZONC9315 body lift on the SUV’s and you’re having a evap issue the inner fender may be pushing on the evap fitting like it did on mine.
I think this one has a damaged quick connection from my body lift if you see that piece of plastic pushing up on the fitting the body lift forced the inner fender against the evap fitting and probably knocked it loose it would just be me chasing down the hose at the dealer at that point in time
my dads 96 suburban broke a similar piece off the gas tank back in the day when I was a grasshopper and with my luck with 2001 GM plastic I lost my original radiator side tank my heater core connectors and many more plastic pieces to age I didn’t blame GM if it is still broken besides the fact...
Puzzle code in my head to possibly repair the factory tank I’m thinking of cutting the factory leaking barb with a dremel and tapping a new barb with pipe dope into the old ones place.
From my understanding the factory piece is 2 separate pieces if it’s those small nipples so if I am careful i can retain the top piece and tap in a fitting
I found one at $700 cannot confirm the in stockness of it some Chinese manufacturer needs to pick this design up and make it I would probably pay $350 or so for a brand new blowmolded one
I’m thinking something like this and an adapter fitting to a bigger size if the hole is too big on the tank side, and 1/8” hose? To go from the tank vents to the vent this is basically how it works in the older trucks however I want to apply it to my truck to make the evap system hold pressure...
They are discontinued not a single GM parts dealer within 300 miles (we called all the way from Paso Robles to Palm Springs) and nobody has a brand new tank that’s a GM certified dealer ebay says $500 for a gamble which makes me want to repair this one
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