Hey all, I am upgrading to a phone with no headphone jack (an annoying downgrade on that front) and now am seruose about adding BT audio to my factory system. I don't use the XM connection, so would be happy to replace that with an aftermarket BT audio module, but want everything else stock...
Hi all,
I have a ‘11 Avalanche that has been mine for about a year. I live in West Africa most of the time, and that’s where the vehicle has been for the last several months. Having it on the rough roads over here has shown some of the parts (of an otherwise tough vehicle) that seem to have...
Thank you all for your concern and advice. I think I was looking at the stick without enough light and just noticing the dirty streaks on it. When I wipe it off, there are black streaks but the fluid itself it definitely dark pink.
I've got the stuff ordered, so I'll do the home filter and...
Interesting. I don't notice any hesitation or slipping while shifting. The DIC reported trans temp is right around 120F when on the highway (not towing, obviously). So I don't see any warning signs that are making me ask this question. It's just that after I send it over to Africa, this kind of...
I realize there are conflicting schools of thought on older transmissions and whether it's better to just leave them alone or try to service them. Advise specifically related to these transmissions is welcome.
I bought a 2011 Avalanche with 140,000 miles. I have no service records for it. I'm...
I'm not doubting your numbers, but curious where you got them? I ask because I just got done doing rear diff pinion seal and an axle seal/bearing. I put 2qt and 15oz in the diff after draining it, because I had read on some other forum that it needed almost 3 qts. I'm sure I overfilled it, I'm...
I just got off of the phone with the dealership this morning, having called because I need to do my front. They said the old non synthetic 80w90 part number for front diff oil has been superseded by p/n 88900401, which if you search, is just full synthetic 75w90, same as the back.
Hmm.. this one came in a sealed AC Delco bag and sure looked the same. Maybe I just got a bad seal. I'll order another and try it again. I'll be much happier to replace the pinion seal than the axle seal which requires opening up the diff - so if one had to go bad, I'm glad it was this one...
Hi folks,
I just got done doing the rear diff pinion seal, diff oil change, and one of the rear axle seal/bearing combos. The diff is leaking from the pinion seal now more than it was before, when it was just weeping, haha... Not the direction I was hoping to head!
I suspect two things:
1)...
I have an '11 LTZ that had poorly repaired rear quarter panel damage. One of the things that wasn't fixed correctly was the rear bumper. The one they replaced the damaged one with is from an LT, so there's no place for the backup sensors to mount.
I have the backup camera, so I'm not actually...
Ok, thanks. Once I hear back from him whether he's willing to license the design so I can have it made locally the way I want or not, I'll let you know. Thanks!
Thanks, that does look like just what I'm looking for. I think I'd prefer to have mine made out of stainless though, so I emailed the seller to ask if they'd license their design for one time use.
I agree, the louvering isn't going to add any airflow or anything.
This line isn't wet on either side of this spot, so I have to assume the leak is coming from the connection. Is this trans cooler? There doesn't seem to be anything to tighten up. Do I just replace the line?
Are you happy with the one you got? I would happily pay for one someone had already gone to the trouble of designing, I just didn't find any good ones for unlifted trucks.
Do you mind posting a link?
I could also take the measurements and do the drawing if others were interested in having...
Hi all,
I'm wondering if anyone who is unsatisfied with the factory front plastic "skid plate" has had the plan I have. I'd like to have the local job shop cut and bend a stainless skid plate that will attach in the factory bolt holes. I'd like one that is angled and then has a wing on each side...
My spoiler is detached and a little flappy, I assume as a result of the collision on the opposite side of the truck before I bought it. When I flex it as far as it wants to go, I see one broken clip and it's obvious that the tape isn't sticky anymore.
Image1697020655 by JasonPAtkins posted Nov...
That was the plan from the first post, yep.
I'm all done. Everything's back together and the truck is down, ready for the test drive. No leaks yet, but of course it's not much of a test till it's rolling!
Thanks for the help, everyone.
So this is my first vehicle with a solid rear axle. The seal actually looks fine to my inexperienced eye. The shaft has some grooving in it where the seal was though.
If the seal really is fine (I'll replace it anyway, obviously) and not causing the leak, then the next suspect seems to me to be...
Thanks. Slide hammer did the job, but with some serious slamming!
The videos I watched also had you using a slide hammer with a flip up shoe on the end to pull the bearing. Didn't look fun, but should be manageable - and the good news is that since it lives in oil, at least you know they're not...
Ok, thanks. Slide hammer's coming out then. I have the caliper and rotor off, but didn't mess with the parking brake hardware. I can't see how that would need to come off though, it doesn't spin with or interfere with the axle in any way I can see.
Hi folks, I'm swapping (or attempting to) the driver rear axle seal and bearing. I have the diff open and the c-clip removed, but the axle is still hanging up on something, preventing me from pulling it out.
Any advice? I gave the hub a few very light tunks outward with a hammer, but didn't...
The previous owner had some kind of aftermarket light controller back there, that's all that's attached to it. That part, I'm removing once I get back there to work.
I guess if any kind of brake component is going to get rubbed over a rock and ruined, the e brake is the best choice, lol - but...
I found decaying rubber boots on the upper ball joint and tie rod end. Both of the ball joints have grease zerks, so I assume they aren't OEM (it's a 2011). I like the idea of keeping these greasable parts (especially since GM doesn't sell an upper ball joint, only the whole $200 upper control...
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