So I've been hunting online and it's easy to find the plastic front shield, but I can't seem to find the part #s for the diff and transfer case shields and mounting hardware... anyone??
Since I don’t do any off-roading I’m thinking the plastic is fine. What is the purpose of the diff and transfer case shields if I don’t go off-roading?
Pretty sure I’m missing all the belly pans / underbody protection. Is there one for the front and one for the transfer case? I never go off-roading but I’m worried about debris going up into the belts/pullies.
My truck is a 2007 Tahoe LT.
If this helps anyone, after lots of digging I read that people with similar symptoms had luck by pulling and replacing the fuses on the dash for the RKE system. I did this (it was about 5 fuses total) and the RKE is back to working normally. None of the fuses were...
So a few days ago my main keyfob stopped working. Then I went and grabbed my 2 spares and neither of them works. Their weird thing is, after I lock the car manually the fobs will work for a little while... making me think something is failing intermittently. Anyone have this before?
So the “dark titanium” on the upper part of my dash seems to chip and scratch very easily. It’s looking pretty worn around the radio, even though I use the proper plastic pry tools. I’m hoping to touch up a few spots, was wondering if anyone knows a paint that is a good match.
Thanks!
Cyrus
Are you planning to keep the Tahoe? If yes, then I think you should do all of the above maintenance. If you feel the dealer is not worth it anymore as the car ages, I think moving to a quality independent shop is entirely reasonable. But if you plan to keep it another 20k+ miles, then you...
New upper control arms, new tie-rod ends, all new sway bar bushings, and a Hunter EagleEye alignment. Drives pretty good now, ready for another 100k miles! (In case you're wondering, the lower arms had already been replaced and were in good shape).
Why did GM switch from the A/C tensioner to the Stretch-to-Fit belt anyways? The tensioner on mine works perfectly and was easy to replace as was the belt.
Definitely sounds like yours has been changed before. I’d go ahead and replace it, but be mindful that your transmission could be near the end of its life with that mileage.
I agree with you, oil is the best thing to put into your crankcase. Checkout Liqui-Moly Molygen oil. It has similar friction modifiers and my truck runs very well on it.
So I'm thinking PowerSlot drilled / slotted rotors and Akebono Performance pads... thoughts? Any sense in rebuilding the pistons at 170k? They seem to work fine.
I'm all for Powerstop rotors, but I've read bad things about their pads for our trucks (specifically, poor performance). I really want good stopping power as I'm used to driving a car and when I hop into a 6000lb truck I occasionally drive it faster than I intend to!
Yeah I put a Dorman into my rear passenger's door. No problems with the install. The motor is a little faster than the other windows (might be the other window rails are gunked up in comparison) and also a little noisier, but it doesn't bother me.
Yes try the re-learn procedure in the manual (letting air out of the tires). If that does not work, then the sensors themselves may need to be programmed which will likely require you to visit a tire shop.
Can I ask what you mean by thickness of material? I just bought a set of OE Wheels and they seem great, but I’d like to know what to look out for. Had I know about Factory Reproductions earlier I probably would have gone with them.
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