Has anyone replaced their oil pan gasket? Dealership said mine was leaking and with a quote of $1,400 to replace it thats not covered by my warranty I'll be looking at doing it myself. There must be some long labor hours involved to get a quote that high haha Its the 6.2 4x4 if theres...
I just did this on my 17 as well, mine called for 75-85 gear oil not 90. Not sure it would make much of a difference either way but might be something to look into just in case. I think its more important to follow the guidelines of either friction adder or no friction adder which if you used...
I ended up ordering the AC Delco fluids for all 3 holes and was able to knock this out Sunday, even got the wife and daughters under there to "help" haha.
Since my street is a slight hill I pulled it up on paver strips I have on the side yard that I did for the boat a few years ago and laid a...
yea, with the dealer price of almost $900 a piece plus tax and an hourly rate of probably $150-$200 an hour I can see how it adds up quick. The warranty company is even questioning the quote and requesting aftermarket parts be used, but I am going to push back on that if I can so OE stuff is used.
Haha. Well dam, it doesn’t get much farther away than Florida to California.
Congrats on the baby but I don’t see a solution here. I think I saw someone post out of the Tennessee area looking to trade as well. Try searching the forums here
Im still trying to find someone in California to swap my heated/power bench for captain chairs as we dont want the bench, but just a heads up, you need to swap from a vehicle with the same wheelbase. Meaning a XL or suburban cannot swap with a Tahoe or standard length yukon. The base brackets...
We’ve been driving it for a few days now and haven’t felt the issue come back after the flush. I’m still trying to research if I should still add a bottle of that LubeGuard product to the trans or if the new fluid type is sufficient.
For the shocks I was starting to go down the rabbit hole of...
I have a '17 yukon 6.2 with ~173K miles. Im going through a bunch of other maintenance points and will be changing the oil soon. In hopes of not starting another oil brand debate lol I was wondering if there were better options to use with these DOD systems, either brand or weight or if any...
As I mentioned in another post my dealership suggested a fluid change on front and back differentials and transfer case. Seems easy enough since the front diff and transfer case have drain plugs. Looks like the biggest pain is dropping the spare tire to get access to the rear diff bolts haha...
Dealership sent this to me. They said the fluid was dark and had a slight amount of metal in the pan but was “normal” and didn’t give them red flags that the trans or TCC was going out. They are flushing now.
They did also say I need a full 4x4 service with fluid changes and that my rear...
Ended up dropping it off at the dealership this AM. If they pull the pan and nothing out of the norm is there then theyll do the full flush and new fluid. If they do find problems.................. well lets just hope I dont get that call today, although thinking about it, the warranty...
After reading this thread, it sounds like I should see if my local dealership can flush all fluids and put the new stuff in (Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP). Im assuming I would still want to add some of that lubegaurd Ive seen mentioned?
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/shudder-no-more.145493/
Our new to us 2017 yukon XL denali with 6.2 8 speed (173K miles) has what I originally thought to be possible sputter/misfire issues recently so I started with the basics. Changed spark plugs and wires (cylinder 8 is a real B*tch FYI), removed and cleaned the throttle body and added a catch can...
We left the battery disconnected over night, which cleared any codes, and have about 200 miles on it since with the issue not coming back. Not saying anything was fixed, nor that I know what could have caused this in the first place but for right now that error hasn't resurfaced
No idea on the cable, I honestly thought everything was electronic and there wasn’t a physical cable anymore lol. It’s an 8 speed if that helps? It shifts in and out of gear and drives but doesn’t register that it’s in park and won’t turn the electronics all the way off.
Where is
So our 2017 Yukon 6.2 started acting up. While shutting the car off the check engine light came on and it has a message of “shift into park” the car is in park and runs and drives ok but the gear indicator doesn’t show in any gear on the dash and with this message the car never really turns off...
For what it’s worth my local dealer confirmed OE is calling for the 168 plug and he “thinks” it superseded the 114 but can’t tell for sure and didn’t know what the difference, if any, would be.
I’m not the original creator but mine is a 6.2. Just looked up rock auto and they list the 168 so maybe something has changed? Not sure what the difference is or if they changed from the 114 to 168. I’ll try calling the local dealer tomorrow when they open and see if they can shed some light
Does anyone know? I just pulled a 41-114 from my ‘17 6.2 that looks like it has all of the 170k miles on it, it is toast. But the local orielleys says the 114 doesn’t fit my vehicle?
I’m hoping new plugs helps with the sort of sputter it has under acceleration.
Would this kit (kicker PSUTA15) still be the best option for adding a sub to my 2017 XL Denali? My wife uses the storage space in the back so a box back there wouldn’t be an option.
Is it like a stutter/surge from possible fuel delivery issue or more like a miss from either a sensor spazing out of wires arching, since you replaced those plug wires I would assume not this exactly but still a type of "feel" when driving if that makes sense haha.
Whole lot of info over my head so I’ll just take your word for it and sssume there are different “levels” of tuning as I know for a fact my diesel truck had an EFI live tune on it and it failed smog and flagged my vin to the state. I had to then return it to stock tune (not that big of a deal)...
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