lift gate on my 2011 Tahoe wont open

I have a 2011 Chevy Tahoe and my lift gate wont open .. it goes up bout quarter of the way and then just closes..has this happened to anyone .. or any ideas where to start

Needs new lift gate struts.

agree with SpareParts above, it is designed to sense resistance and retract/reverse direction so as not to cause damage to the tailgate or a human or animal or other objects when opening/closing just like pinch control on your power-windows. If the struts are weak or the strut rod is dirty it will sense/feel resistance and reverse direction. You could try opening the tailgate manually and cleaning the rods but at 15 years old they are probably tired and worn out as the tailgate is pretty heavy.

Been there, done that. Your lift struts need to be replaced. IMO, get GM OEM replacements from RockAuto.com or GMPartsDirect.com for cost savings over the local dealer. Note that the left and right lift struts are not the same, and have different part numbers, so proper installation is important.

Last, don't be shocked at the freight price, as they are classified as slightly hazardous, due to their internal pressure.

Check the overhead console switch isn't turned off. Mine would start to open then shut, but not 1/4 of the way. Otherwise I agree with the struts.

Don't get the cheap ones, get the Strong Arm or something mainstream. I tried the cheap strut and had to cut it off as the socket retainer would not release.

I picked up a set of cheapo China clones on Amazon. Super cheap and so far working great 3 months in.

I assume when you say the lift gate goes up a quarter of the way and comes back down, do you mean the automated lift action? If so, before swapping the struts, check for DTCs (codes) with a scan tool. But it has to be a scan tool that can read GM B, C, and U codes. Not just the standard P codes. It's common for wires in the harness to chafe or pinch between the top of lift gate and where it enters the body. If that's what is happening, there will actually be a code or two. Sometimes, grabbing the harness there and moving it around will temporarily reconnect the wire. The fix is to cut open the harness and fix the wire(s). Simple fix.

fredcook said:

I assume when you say the lift gate goes up a quarter of the way and comes back down, do you mean the automated lift action? If so, before swapping the struts, check for DTCs (codes) with a scan tool. But it has to be a scan tool that can read GM B, C, and U codes. Not just the standard P codes. It's common for wires in the harness to chafe or pinch between the top of lift gate and where it enters the body. If that's what is happening, there will actually be a code or two. Sometimes, grabbing the harness there and moving it around will temporarily reconnect the wire. The fix is to cut open the harness and fix the wire(s). Simple fix.

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The physical test of it lifting on it's own without help (turn assist off at the upper center console switch) after it has been opened about 1/4th of the way (manually) rules checking for codes in or out.
if you open it about 1/4th of the way and let go and it just closes or almost closes or just sits static the struts are done
if you open it about 1/4th of the way and it then opens on it's own to about 3/4th of the way (on it's own) then the struts are done
if you open it and lift it around 1/4th of the way and it goes all the way up (on it's own) the struts are fine.
the motorized lift is just a "helper" and it's weak on purpose with a pressure safety switch for both opening and lowering.
if it detects pressure it reverse's as a safety mechanism to not damage your hatch or crush a kid or whatever.
(hence if the struts are weak it creates pressure (it's expects help from the strut), the safety feature kicks in and it simply closes and won't open)
closing from fully open with the motor is a different pressure reading, but still works the same if you try and hold it from closing it will reverse and go back up
it also does not operate while in gear.
if it won't open period, then the interlock actuator is likely murfed in which case you should check for codes and if needed drill the "dimple" make a hole in the lower center rear inside panel, use a LONG screwdriver and push it in the hole you made to open the locking tab. then open it to service.
if you can't find the dimple then you can't find a cli-t and ask for help hint: use a flashlight and look closer.

How did we ever survive before power lift gates?!

solli5pack said:

How did we ever survive before power lift gates?!

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i just have to make sure I don't catch the corner edge in the skull, my gmt800 hatch lifted up higher. On my 2012 the corner edge is just above my eye about temple level

Doubeleive said:

i just have to make sure I don't catch the corner edge in the skull, my gmt800 hatch lifted up higher. On my 2012 the corner edge is just above my eye about temple level

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I've smacked my head on my lift gate a few times. Talk about feeling stupid.........

I haven't smacked my head on the 2011 as yet but I really do miss the split tailgate (glass section flips up and lower half drops down like a pickup tailgate) on my 99 Yukon. I really wish GM would bring that design back. Ford/Lincoln has the split tailgate on their new Expedition/Navigator