02 Suburban Rear Jacking

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JPVortex

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Hey folks, this thread is going to make me look very very stupid. but I don't want to end myself by having a truck land on me. Having troubles with solidly jacking up the rear end of thee vehicle.

I'm too lazy to type this all out so I took a video explaining everything.

Here's that video.


Thanks guys!
 

Scottydoggs

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ive jacked from the diff, then put the stand at the frame in front of the wheels, like under the back doors, front end, jack from the K member and place stands at the frame up front there.

make sure the jack rolls, if the jack cant move when lifting or lowering it will transfer the weight of the car. when the jack can move the cup of the jack comes straight down.

be safe out there.
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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ive jacked from the diff, then put the stand at the frame in front of the wheels, like under the back doors, front end, jack from the K member and place stands at the frame up front there.

make sure the jack rolls, if the jack cant move when lifting or lowering it will transfer the weight of the car. when the jack can move the cup of the jack comes straight down.

be safe out there.
Thank you! I did notice the jack wasn’t really rolling at all.

I tried putting the jack stands as far back as I could and farther up by the doors and it did the same thing.


Got any tips to keep the jack rolling properly? I have a super uneven crappy concrete driveway that makes rolling very difficult. I do have a giant half inch sheet of wood I can put underneath though? Not sure if it’d crack or not.
 

OR VietVet

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You should be using 6 ton stands, the bigger the jack stand-the wider the base, and set them under the axle tubes, on each side of the center diff. Set the stands so the round axle tubes set in the dipped/round part of the saddles. If you are using 3 ton stands, you likely have to stretch out the arms too far and then leverage works against you. If you do jack up at the diff, that is a safe place, you can set the stands on each side at the frame and be under the doors. Because when you let the weight down and the weight is shifted forward because of the angle of the back up in the air, you should extend the stand arms only enough to keep the tires off the ground when you take the floor jack from under the diff. Use blocks, front and rear of the front tires to keep the vehicle from wanting to move.

If you ever set stands at front and rear frames, so the front and rear suspensions hang, jack up and set stands in stages, a little at a time on the stand arm extensions.
 

homesick

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You should be using 6 ton stands, the bigger the jack stand-the wider the base, and set them under the axle tubes, on each side of the center diff. Set the stands so the round axle tubes set in the dipped/round part of the saddles. If you are using 3 ton stands, you likely have to stretch out the arms too far and then leverage works against you. If you do jack up at the diff, that is a safe place, you can set the stands on each side at the frame and be under the doors. Because when you let the weight down and the weight is shifted forward because of the angle of the back up in the air, you should extend the stand arms only enough to keep the tires off the ground when you take the floor jack from under the diff. Use blocks, front and rear of the front tires to keep the vehicle from wanting to move.

If you ever set stands at front and rear frames, so the front and rear suspensions hang, jack up and set stands in stages, a little at a time on the stand arm extensions.

^^^I would add to this^^^...

If the jack's not freely moving [to keep itself centered] then definitely use the sheet of plywood under the jack. If needed, use two. You do not want the truck tipping the ******** balance.

joe
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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You should be using 6 ton stands, the bigger the jack stand-the wider the base, and set them under the axle tubes, on each side of the center diff. Set the stands so the round axle tubes set in the dipped/round part of the saddles. If you are using 3 ton stands, you likely have to stretch out the arms too far and then leverage works against you. If you do jack up at the diff, that is a safe place, you can set the stands on each side at the frame and be under the doors. Because when you let the weight down and the weight is shifted forward because of the angle of the back up in the air, you should extend the stand arms only enough to keep the tires off the ground when you take the floor jack from under the diff. Use blocks, front and rear of the front tires to keep the vehicle from wanting to move.

If you ever set stands at front and rear frames, so the front and rear suspensions hang, jack up and set stands in stages, a little at a time on the stand arm extensions.
Thank you! 6 ton stands are what is being used. Here’s a picture of where I have the jackstands right now by the axle. Just don’t like how the surface of the jackstands isn’t totally engaged, only half of it is. Even putting the stands under the doors makes them want to tip, which I think may be due to the jack not rolling. I’ll put my hardwood sheet under the jack and see if it rolls properly.

IMG_5245.jpeg
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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^^^I would add to this^^^...

If the jack's not freely moving [to keep itself centered] then definitely use the sheet of plywood under the jack. If needed, use two. You do not want the truck tipping the ******** balance.

joe
Appreciate it! Would the jack missing the circle plate lead to it not rolling either? It’s missing the top plate. Threads stripped out on it when I pulled a transmission with it. I had pulled the plate out and stuck a transmission jack adapter that galled the threads up.

Works just fine without it. Just need to make sure I’m centered on whatever I’m lifting on
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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not sure, I’ve done it on every truck I own without issue though.
Upon research, seems like that’s more for vehicles with rubber rear differential bushings. These rear ends are pretty solidly mounted, on the Tahoes and Burbans with the rear sway bar links and pretty thick shock bolts.
 

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