So I finally got the truck back today. According to the dealer, it turned out the Passlock and the PCM modules failed and had to be replaced. So, $2,191.15 later my truck is running like a champ again!
Thanks to everyone who posted in efforts to help out.
Thanks for the input lyncht1967. The truck is currently over at my local Chevrolet dealer. I talked to the service advisor yesterday. He said the truck is in the repair bay and the tech working on it is on vacation all next week! Luckily there's no rush on my end for me to get the truck back. He...
I did take off the grounds (except the one that's wedged between the engine and the firewall) as you suggested previously and cleaned the contact points good before reconnecting them and no luck. I believe it is a bad ground or wire that came loose but could not for the life of me find one!
Not yet. I ran the fuel pressure test and it was on the low side at 46psi. I took it to a small repair shop and they got 49psi on their pressure test. They said that is within range to start the truck so they don't think it's a fuel issue. They found that their was no spark at the coils. I...
Thanks for the reply @OR VietVet I replaced the spark plugs and wires about 3 months ago so unless I got some bad ones they should be good. I'll have to get the fuel pressure gauge Fless mentioned to test that. The cranking rhythm sounds like it always has in the past, it just won't fire up. My...
Thanks for the reply @Fless. I just removed those 2 wires and cleaned them real good as well as the frame they were mounted to with no luck. Something I forgot to mention in my first post is that 2 weeks before my problem, my gauges in my cluster intermittently did not work. The truck would...
My 2004 Yukon with the 5.3L with 210K on the odometer died on me 2 weeks ago when I had the A/C full blast on a hot day. It started idling rough at the stop light so I pulled over and it died. It started up after an hour of multiple start attempts and seemed to drive home fine. Two days later I...
I was able to get under the truck yesterday and found that the centerlink was on correctly. I did the preload adjustment and it drives great again. Thank you to everyone who provided input.
A couple months ago I rebuilt my power steering gear on my 2004 Yukon because it was leaking PS fluid. Since I was there I replaced the pitman arm, idler arm, tie rods, and sway bar end links. It turned out to be the C clip was broken in the PS gear. I drove the truck for roughly 250 miles...
I will answer in order with the number on your picture. If you plan on placing the push to start button in the key position and remove the key cylinder completely (like I did), there will be no need to cut the key as this bypasses the steering wheel lock.
6. Starter Wire-Correct
3. Ignition...
I use one of these to watch videos from my phone on my Pioneer screen in my truck.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Car-WiFi-Router-With-Screen-Device-Mirroring-Support-iOS-Andriod-System/132674816985?hash=item1ee4090bd9:g:FtsAAOSw2tRZdwE8
Update: I just saw your other thread where you found the problem.
Do you have a voltmeter? I would test to make sure you have voltage at the drivers door switch while trying to roll the window up. If you don't, you might have a break in the wire from the drivers switch to the rear passenger door.
Do you know what brand the remote start is? You would want to find out if it can integrate with an aftermarket alarm system so you don't have to have multiple remotes for the remote start and alarm system.
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