Seriously? I have to drop the right side exhaust manifold to change tranny oil?

[Mr T]

Ok, I did a full transmission oil change a few years ago, and even posted my experience on this thread ( http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28182).

Now myy Denali has 30K on that oil, so it is time to do it again. However, my experience with the exhaust pipe in the way was so difficult that I thought I'd research it a bit before I crawl under the truck to go at it again. I'm not a fan of paying someone $250 bucks to change my tranny oil....

So, could someone please confirm that to remove the transmission oil pan from a 6.2L Yukon XL Denali the owner has to remove the right side exhaust manifold from the block? If so, WOW. That's no easy task. The exhaust manifold has 5 or 6 bolts and the back 2 look like they will be a BEAR to remove, due to how close they are to the firewall. I'm sure, due to block heat, all will take serious torque to get lose. I don't want to even do this if I don't have to.

Please, could someone tell me if there is another way? If not, I'll be sorely disappointed in the engineers who blew this design. They need to go back to school and start over if this is the case.

 

[ezdaar]

use the flush method at the radiator.
I never drop the pan unless changing the filter..

 

[Mr T]

I changed the filter at 53,000 along with oil. Truck now has 85K. How frequent should we replace filters vs. oil?

 

[Ponchonutty]

Isn't these trannys set up to run for 100k with out any service?

 

[Blazed]

I am pretty sure you are supposed to change it at 50k and 100k or just 100k but never flush it.
From what I've read.

 

[ezdaar]

ok, rephrase, "fluid change"

Flush indicates using a third party chemical to remove deposits in a reverse flow setup. Thats not what I meant.

There is a method to change the fluid in your trans Via the cooler line at the radiator. this pushes the fluid out the same direction the trans normally pumps it. so it doesn't disturb any debris.
This also allows you to change out the entire 14 quarts of Burnt fluid from the trans and converter.

Trans fluid is just a hydraulic fluid. we all know these fluids break down over time from heat and gear shearing. its ultimately your choice how you go about this..

swap out aprox 4 quarts and leave in 10 quarts of bad fluid, or change out all 14.
Its absolutely incredible how bad 14 quarts of 60k mile trans fluid smells when its sitting in two 5 gallon buckets. as well how dirty and brown it is vs what you see on the stick.

 

[Mr T]

I am pretty sure you are supposed to change it at 50k and 100k or just 100k but never flush it.
From what I've read.

You are correct. 50K and 100,000k. Since I changed at 55, I'm going to wait till at least 95 to 100K to change. Thanks for reminding me of that.

 

[jstutz101]

I just used this method to change the tranny fluid on my 2007 GMC Yukon. http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179148

It worked well. The only thing I did different was get this fitting http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EPRCAC/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to go in the radiator.

Kind of nice not crawling under the car for a change!

 

[BCRacing24]

Yes, change all fluid & filter every 50k. Especially if you do any towing.
Use either the 5gal bucket method or take to dealer. Spending $200 every 50k is far less $$ than spending $3-3500 @ 125K when the Trans "DOES" fail. At 53k ours was already black & slightly burnt smelling once drained into a pan, looking at dipstick didn't look all that dirty (misleading). Magnet had a thick coating on it as well and needs cleaned off every 50k so it can continue to do its job. My trans normally runs 180-185 unloaded & 200-210 loaded @ 5k pounds. Our previous 2 trucks (neither a Chevy) never ran over 170-175 loaded. So my next mod will be this, hope to stay below 170 then !!

Long Tru-Cool Max Heavy Duty Transmission Oil Cooler
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300935736398?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

PML 2qt extra trans pan
http://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_11025.php

 

[08grey]

Nice

 

[DRG]

Mr T -
I did not see an answer to your original question. I changed the transmission fluid and filter on my 2010 Denali (6.2L) and I did have to loosen the exhaust pipe connection to the manifold. Not a fun job.

 

[splinter]

...I did have to loosen the exhaust pipe connection to the manifold. Not a fun job.

I used a floor jack and ratchet strap to lower the exhaust enough (~1/2") for the pan to clear for R&R.

Quick and easy.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/6l80-atf-diy-534546/

 

[HUMBL57]

Nice leverage idea! Haven't seen that one before. Props!

 

[Parthery]

My shop charges $179 and that includes unbolting the exhaust manifold and replacing the gasket when they bolt it back (in addition to the transmission filter and gasket).

Just had it done...I can feel the difference and the transmission seems to be running cooler.

 

[1BADI5]

I do not trust the 50 or 100k service timelines

I do it every 30k and I have never had a transmission slip or go out on me.

I would not recommend pulling the y-pipe down like that.........I could see a exhaust manifold cracking with that method. Its 6 bolts to loosen to do it right

 

[MonoAnt]

I just replaced the filter on my 08 yukon denali, although its tight you can do it with out touching the exhaust. Just gotta wiggle it out. But I'm sure every vehicles exhaust is a little different, and that little bit of a difference may make or break you because its that tight.

---------- Post added at 01:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------

speaking of the Y pipe though, how hard are the collector bolts to remove, do they normally break? i need to pull mine to re weld my wideband 02 bung, did it by removing the fender well on drivers side the first time and couldn't get all the way around it, pin hole leak.

 

[undertaker]

I just replaced the filter on my 08 yukon denali, although its tight you can do it with out touching the exhaust. Just gotta wiggle it out. But I'm sure every vehicles exhaust is a little different, and that little bit of a difference may make or break you because its that tight.

---------- Post added at 01:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------

speaking of the Y pipe though, how hard are the collector bolts to remove, do they normally break? i need to pull mine to re weld my wideband 02 bung, did it by removing the fender well on drivers side the first time and couldn't get all the way around it, pin hole leak.

at 100k I snapped 2 of the 6 studs replacing collector gaskets...so there's a good chance they might be problematic. Of course I only let them soak for 2 mins with penetrating oil...might want to hit them a few times before you actually do the job.

 

[MonoAnt]

at 100k I snapped 2 of the 6 studs replacing collector gaskets...so there's a good chance they might be problematic. Of course I only let them soak for 2 mins with penetrating oil...might want to hit them a few times before you actually do the job.

Are they decent to get at all of em?

 

[14SWTahoe]

Anyone retrofitted the OEM pan with a drain bolt? Or just buy aftermarket with one?