Replacing all the steel brake lines questions

[newbie78]

I have to replace my steel brake lines because under the brake booster they are badly rusted. Looks like the previous owner added some inline couplings to do patch repairs. I want to do them all right with no couplings.

First question what size are they? 3/16 is what I've read and one is 1/4" that goes to the back? This is what I read on other places just want to confirm it here. Also is this the OD outside diameter?

And lastly there is a kit on Ebay that has all the lines prebent for roughly $220 and they are stainless steel. They have another kit for regular steel for $200. Anyone heard of or used this company? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-1999-Chevy-GMC-Yukon-Blazer-4wd-4dr-Power-Disc-Brake-Line-Set-Stainless-/271374678704?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1997%7CMake%3AChevrolet%7CModel%3ATahoe&hash=item3f2f30fab0&vxp=mtr

It would save me a lot of hassle of doing all these by hand. I also have to buy a flaring tool I don't own one. Some of these lines have some wicked bends are 360 degree turns. Would you buy this kit?

 

[SunlitComet]

yes buy the kit.

 

[newbie78]

yes buy the kit.

Now that I did some more research on the company seems that some people said they have horrible customer service.

Have you used this company ? Anyone here buy from this company inlinetube?

 

[SunlitComet]

No but the complaints were not really out of hand and it was just customer service was it not? they have the stock there so grab it already. Keep on wanting to buy some of brake and fuel lines but I really don't need them. Maybe if I do a frame off resto one day.

 

[newbie78]

No but the complaints were not really out of hand and it was just customer service was it not? they have the stock there so grab it already. Keep on wanting to buy some of brake and fuel lines but I really don't need them. Maybe if I do a frame off resto one day.

Some said the bends were really bad and tried to send them back and they wouldn't take them back. One complaint was about a damaged line and he said they told him to take it up with UPS. They seem to be real a holes for customer service from what i read. Their ebay rating is 94% positive.

I'm not too concerned about the bends being 100% I can adjust them it's not a show truck just don't want anything where i have to deal with them.

I will mull it over. A coil 25' of 3/16 is $25 at Advance not sure how many feet total i would need but i'm thinking i might try it myself. Even if i booger up a $25 coil I'll still save money.

 

[95escahoe]

Looks like a good kit, heard good things about that company before

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

 

[SunlitComet]

I would actually get straight pipe and shape it as needed if you do it yourself. There is more straight run then bends, fits neatly in place and you can take out old lines and mimic them turn for turn. I don't think doing it from a coil will look nice and neat so as not to rub on something by accident.

 

[newbie78]

I would actually get straight pipe and shape it as needed if you do it yourself. There is more straight run then bends, fits neatly in place and you can take out old lines and mimic them turn for turn. I don't think doing it from a coil will look nice and neat so as not to rub on something by accident.

Do they make straight sections that long? And do the lines have to be exactly bent the same way? If you look at the pic I attached there are some 360 degree bends looks like a coil spring sort of. Why do they have to be that way? Maybe to allow for expansion and contraction of the metal?

 

[SunlitComet]

you would have a cheaper cost looking for straight pipe form a tubing specialist locally for straight runs. they are bent as they are to hug the surface of where they mount and stay out of the way as much as possible. the coilers are that way because of flexing.

 

[1998Suburban]

I replaced all the brake lines in my '98 K1500 Suburban last fall as the lines were shot:

The truck came from up north and I was going to buy the kit or a few rolls of line. Then I realized that cars in SC aren't really exposed to road salt so I hit the pull-a-part and scavenged lines off 2 Tahoes & a Suburban to come up with almost everything I needed. I did, however, have to make the RF line from scratch.
Other than some special (goofy) flare nuts, the lines are all standard 3/16" or 1/4". If nothing is available locally I'd buy a few rolls or straight lengths of line and start copying the lines, a few at a time. They don't need to be 100% exact, just close enough to work. You can copy the axle lines, lines from MC to ABS distribution block , and LF line without pulling the old ones off the truck. It would also be a great time to upgrade the Master Cyl.
Here's what I pulled off. Most of my lines were terribly rotted in spots and great in others.

New lines at MC:

New lines on the frame rail:

 

[SunlitComet]

At least it was just rust on the outside end and never they broke.

 

[newbie78]

I replaced all the brake lines in my '98 K1500 Suburban last fall as the lines were shot:

The truck came from up north and I was going to buy the kit or a few rolls of line. Then I realized that cars in SC aren't really exposed to road salt so I hit the pull-a-part and scavenged lines off 2 Tahoes & a Suburban to come up with almost everything I needed. I did, however, have to make the RF line from scratch.
Other than some special (goofy) flare nuts, the lines are all standard 3/16" or 1/4". If nothing is available locally I'd buy a few rolls or straight lengths of line and start copying the lines, a few at a time. They don't need to be 100% exact, just close enough to work. You can copy the axle lines, lines from MC to ABS distribution block , and LF line without pulling the old ones off the truck. It would also be a great time to upgrade the Master Cyl.
Here's what I pulled off. Most of my lines were terribly rotted in spots and great in others.

New lines at MC:

New lines on the frame rail:

Wow those new brake lines look like a bowl of spaghetti ha. The first pic looks like how bad mine are just under the brake booster.

The junk yard is a good idea! They only charge $4 for a brake line What makes/models/years would be the same for my 1997 tahoe 4x4?

I just looked up the inventory at my local harrys u pull it and found

1- tahoe 1997
1- tahoe 1996

1- gmc suburban 1996
1- chevy suburban 1999

chevy k1500 - 89,91,95,98

Are the brake lines the same on blazers and jimmy's? There are a ton of them at the yard.

 

[SunlitComet]

jimmy and compact blazers will not likely happen. any gmt420 or gmt430 platform tahoe, yukon or full size blazer should work just fine from years 95-2000. and a few years early for the yukon I think.

 

[newbie78]

jimmy and compact blazers will not likely happen. any gmt420 or gmt430 platform tahoe, yukon or full size blazer should work just fine from years 95-2000. and a few years early for the yukon I think.

Ok thanks. At $4 a line it's worth a try to look.

 

[1998Suburban]

If you're lucky maybe you can find something from the south that was totaled and ended up in Harry's. I've found that the truck, 2&4 dr Yukon, & Suburban lines are interchangeable except for the center section on the LH frame rail. Rear axle lines are identical for all models as is the piece that goes from the LH frame rail to the rear brake hose. Front brake MC to ABS controller are identical but LF and RF lines are specific to 2WD and 4WD models. The center section of the lines that runs along the frame under the doors is specific to the vehicle body style.
I stripped a 2WD Suburban, 2WD Tahoe, 4WD Tahoe, and 4WD Blazer (2Dr Tahoe) to get what I needed. If you see good fuel lines grab them too, mine were just as bad as the brake lines.
As for years I'd stay with the Vortec engines with the 4 Kelsey-Hayes wheel ABS controller (96-2000 OBS). The older trucks had RWAL only and had a different setup.

 

[newbie78]

Now that I think about it more... I might scrap using lines from the junkyard because the lines could be breaking down inside. Just like an exhaust it may look good on the outside but could be rusting away on the inside.

I'm going to go with buying line and bending it myself. I still might buy them from the junkyard to use them as templates. That way I can bend the lines ahead of time and not do it the same day I take everything apart. This is my daily driver so I can't afford to have the truck off the road for days.

 

[1998Suburban]

I've never seen a brake line rust from the inside out. Exhaust systems do this b/c of the moisture that's a byproduct of combustion. If grabbing a set of lines to use as patterns works for you that's fine. Just remember to transfer the flare nuts as they're non standard.

 

[scotto0609]

I used classic tube for my 94 2dr and was satisfied with the fit and service,you just have to bend 1 or 2 lines due to shipping constraints,and they mark those accordingly.

 

[newbie78]

I've never seen a brake line rust from the inside out. Exhaust systems do this b/c of the moisture that's a byproduct of combustion. If grabbing a set of lines to use as patterns works for you that's fine. Just remember to transfer the flare nuts as they're non standard.

I know how exhaust rots out my point was you can think your exhaust is good because it looks good outside but it can be really rotted out inside.

I never saw a brake line break down internally but I never cut one open to see. I've read several different forums that said they can rot from the inside out.

And read this "The second problem (and one not generally addressed by those making the determination of choice of materials) was internal corrosion. We know that brake fluid – DOT 3 or 4 will absorb ambient moisture and hold it in suspension within the hydraulic system allowing it to do its insidious thing within our brake lines. I have been told by brake specialists that more line corrosion occurs from within the brake tubes than from without."

From here: http://www.brakeconnect.com/cunifer-brake-line